T3 rear brake drum overheating
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2016, 06:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 15671
- Location: Gibraltar
T3 rear brake drum overheating
Hi Forum, I have and ongoing problem of the rear brake drum overheating !?
I have had a look through Wiki and the Forum including Jeds wheel bearing change youtube video.
With the wheel jacked up I tested for 'bearing play' , virtually no vertical or lateral movement apparent, so I think i can assume the bearing is serviceable.
History, I have recently fitted new brake shoes (L and R) adjusted accordingly and run in for a few hundred miles.
New brake drum hydraulic cylinders were fitted last year. Brake Drum does not have any ridges or any significant signs of wear, so I think that ok.
MOT end of 2020 and had a problem on Brake Tester, it showed an imbalance between L and R. The overheating drum was not holding as well as the other side.
I then took off the wheel and drum for inspection, bit of dust, but all looked good, springs and retainer clips all in place. Replaced drum and made adjustment to expand shoes and therefore provide better balance (L and R) This did improve 'balance' on braking.
I checked the underbody brake cable adjuster and tightened up to obtain 2-4 notches on Handbrake Lever
BUT after all the above there is still an overheating issue on the one rear brake drum !
I have run out of ideas or solutions to this problem, uuuggghhh !
Any suggestions (constructive preferred !) what next to check or do to remedy this chronic problem would be much appreciated, thanks
Bill
I have had a look through Wiki and the Forum including Jeds wheel bearing change youtube video.
With the wheel jacked up I tested for 'bearing play' , virtually no vertical or lateral movement apparent, so I think i can assume the bearing is serviceable.
History, I have recently fitted new brake shoes (L and R) adjusted accordingly and run in for a few hundred miles.
New brake drum hydraulic cylinders were fitted last year. Brake Drum does not have any ridges or any significant signs of wear, so I think that ok.
MOT end of 2020 and had a problem on Brake Tester, it showed an imbalance between L and R. The overheating drum was not holding as well as the other side.
I then took off the wheel and drum for inspection, bit of dust, but all looked good, springs and retainer clips all in place. Replaced drum and made adjustment to expand shoes and therefore provide better balance (L and R) This did improve 'balance' on braking.
I checked the underbody brake cable adjuster and tightened up to obtain 2-4 notches on Handbrake Lever
BUT after all the above there is still an overheating issue on the one rear brake drum !
I have run out of ideas or solutions to this problem, uuuggghhh !
Any suggestions (constructive preferred !) what next to check or do to remedy this chronic problem would be much appreciated, thanks
Bill
-
- Trader
- Posts: 2599
- Joined: 27 May 2009, 18:56
- 80-90 Mem No: 16628
- Location: hayling island
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Rear brake hoses collapsed would be my guess
- tobydog
- Registered user
- Posts: 1389
- Joined: 07 Mar 2009, 21:03
- 80-90 Mem No: 6484
- Location: Near Saarfend, Essex
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Could be the flexible hose breaking down internally and acting like a one way valve, it allows fluid into the cylinder but restricts it exiting..
beat me to it
beat me to it
Knowledge is power
1970 CU
1970 CU
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2016, 06:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 15671
- Location: Gibraltar
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Hi guys, thanks
Good thinking as the hoses are probably original ! Any way of checking the ‘collapsed rubber hose’ theory’ ?
Bet they will be a bugger to remove !!!
Cheers Bison35
Good thinking as the hoses are probably original ! Any way of checking the ‘collapsed rubber hose’ theory’ ?
Bet they will be a bugger to remove !!!
Cheers Bison35
-
- Trader
- Posts: 2599
- Joined: 27 May 2009, 18:56
- 80-90 Mem No: 16628
- Location: hayling island
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Easy way is , if you leave it say over night is the Brake free , don’t press the pedal first
If it is , press the pedal hard then immediately try to spin the wheel , if it doesn’t spin its most likely the hose. They aren’t to bad to do
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2016, 06:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 15671
- Location: Gibraltar
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
That’s a great idea ! Good thinking, I’ll give it a test as you have described
Thanks Davidoft 1
Thanks Davidoft 1
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2016, 06:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 15671
- Location: Gibraltar
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Well, this morning i jacked up the Campervan ( it has been standing overnight !) and found the real wheel turned quite freely by hand.
Then gave the footbrake several hard emergency stops, checked the wheel again and it turned freely again ! So, i think I can now eliminate a partially blocked brake pipe.
Any other ideas/tests that I could try ?
One other observation I made when driving the other day, after 20 - 30 kms the brake drum gets really hot AND the footbrake then becomes spongy. I think the heat generated by the brake drum transfers to the hydraulic brake cylinder and expands the brake fluid which exacerbates the problem i.e. forcing the brake shoes out towards the drum. In addition the heat may cause damage to the hydraulic cylinder rubber seals !?
If I 'back off' the adjuster too much the Handbrake/Braking will become ineffective.
Any thoughts welcome
Thanks Bison
Then gave the footbrake several hard emergency stops, checked the wheel again and it turned freely again ! So, i think I can now eliminate a partially blocked brake pipe.
Any other ideas/tests that I could try ?
One other observation I made when driving the other day, after 20 - 30 kms the brake drum gets really hot AND the footbrake then becomes spongy. I think the heat generated by the brake drum transfers to the hydraulic brake cylinder and expands the brake fluid which exacerbates the problem i.e. forcing the brake shoes out towards the drum. In addition the heat may cause damage to the hydraulic cylinder rubber seals !?
If I 'back off' the adjuster too much the Handbrake/Braking will become ineffective.
Any thoughts welcome
Thanks Bison
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 1843
- Joined: 16 Sep 2013, 17:19
- 80-90 Mem No: 13596
- Location: Hampshire
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Has the brake cable been checked and does it evenly spread the load on both wheels when applied. Maybe on your drive you have had to apply the handbrake at some time and it maybe sticking on one side after doing so. Only a suggestion if not already covered.
1984 Campervan 1.9DG Petrol WBX
-
- Registered user
- Posts: 111
- Joined: 22 Oct 2016, 06:59
- 80-90 Mem No: 15671
- Location: Gibraltar
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
Pre MOT I checked and lubricated the brake cables, at that time I did find the inner cables were dry and difficult to slide within the outer sleeves. And the central balancing bar and adjustment was checked ok.
So, I am sure the handbrake system is now in good working condition.
Any other suggestions welcome
Thanks
Bison35
So, I am sure the handbrake system is now in good working condition.
Any other suggestions welcome
Thanks
Bison35
Re: T3 rear brake drum overheating
There is clearly binding on a brake.
Get drums off, check both handbrake cables for free movement.
The car should hold equally on click 2 on each wheel. The automatic adjusters always fail.
There should be slight hold on the brakes with no handbrake.
There is a great YT video by endfloat for replacing and adjusting the rear brakes.
watch the latter part of the video of your drums and shoes are ok.
I am certain one of the adjusters is out.
It takes time to do it all right but very rewarding once you understand the logic of the system.
Get drums off, check both handbrake cables for free movement.
The car should hold equally on click 2 on each wheel. The automatic adjusters always fail.
There should be slight hold on the brakes with no handbrake.
There is a great YT video by endfloat for replacing and adjusting the rear brakes.
watch the latter part of the video of your drums and shoes are ok.
I am certain one of the adjusters is out.
It takes time to do it all right but very rewarding once you understand the logic of the system.
Westfalia Hightop Top Joker 1.6TD - aka Daisy, my labour of love