Clutch cable

[triggermala]

Hi , thanks for reply and input on this subject. It seems I may have been given different advice from different forums. So just the cable clutch arm on the side of the bellhousing can be swapped even it it has my original 1.6 ct bellhousing which I assume is bolted to the other side of the 2.00 ltr DK gearbox. Would it still have the smaller clutch from the 1.6 ct.

[Mocki]

That’s fine , I only went on the info you gave .....

[multisi]

Hi , thanks for reply and input on this subject. It seems I may have been given different advice from different forums. So just the cable clutch arm on the side of the bellhousing can be swapped even it it has my original 1.6 ct bellhousing which I assume is bolted to the other side of the 2.00 ltr DK gearbox. Would it still have the smaller clutch from the 1.6 ct.

The clutch is bolted on to the 2ltr engine flywheel so it should be the correct size clutch, you need to source a bracket that holds the hydraulic slave cylinder on the bellhousing and a lever as well, make sure the master and slave cylinder are  good quality . It would be good to get the green Haynes manual as that has good diagrams and photos showing both the cable clutch and also the hydraulic clutch set up.

[triggermala]

Still a bit confused. So I can keep my 1.6 ct bellhousing that is bolted to my other half 2ltr DK gearbox but just fit a slave cylinder bracket , slave cylinder and hydraulic clutch arm to it. I have the chance to buy a good condition petrol bellhousing with the bracket and arm still attached ,all in good working order. Should I go for this or all the separate parts . If I go for the separate parts how will I know what size clutch I have inside without dropping the box and stripping it down. Are all petrol bellhousings the same no matter which engine size. I was told the arms couldn't be swapped over that is why I thought it was best idea to go for complete replacement bellhousing with everything on it already.

[multisi]

 The best thing to do is buy a green Haynes manual this will show you the set up for both. Sometimes the clutch lever arm is seized on and can be trouble getting off. if you want to find out you have the correct clutch then drop the engine out but i would just try to swap the parts without any major work, just doing the dash removal.

[triggermala]

So are you saying the bellhousings for a 1.6ct and a 2.00ltr are the same and that if I can remove the cable clutch lever arm with not much trouble I would be better off just fitting a hydraulic lever arm and brackets. Also would any damage be caused by leaving in the smaller clutch if it is what's in the box. I have a complete bellhousing coming with all the hydraulic bits still attached, would it be just as well to do a straight swap over and then the clutch could be checked to see if it's the correct one.

[multisi]

Yes the bellhousings should be the same , if the clutch is working ok then why change it, if the van has a 2ltr engine fitted with a DK gearbox then it should have been fitted with the correct clutch kit, the clutch is fitted on the engine, only the release bearing is on the gearbox. If the garage is doing the work then all the parts must be sourced before they start, having the green Haynes manual will help you and the garage if they are not familiar with these vans.

[sarran1955]

Hello,

My 2 Euro cents worth..

Before dismantling anything, go try a 2 litre bus with 2 litre gearbox and hydraulic clutch.
Even a 5 speed will do..

There will not be much difference in pedal effort, after all you still have to push against the clutch plate springs..

When was the clutch arm last serviced....   if the cable attach and spring are filthy, then that won't help.
Are the bushes in good condition ..

The guide tube for the cable must be in good condition and correctly fitted, new is available.

We have discussed elsewhere the possibility of using an aftermarket landrover clutch booster spring..

The clutch and flywheel story is irrelevant, as the clutch matches the flywheel, the flywheel and input shaft the same size.

If you are determined to go down the hydraulic route, (a fair sized job as you will be changing the master cylinder and piping),
then why not get a CU gearbox complete, still an 091, but with a higher 4 th gear..

With a thirsty CU, that would save a bit and give you a better cruising speed.

Air-Cooled Bliss...

Cordialement,

[multisi]

It has a DK code gearbox.

[triggermala]

Hi again I am still trying to get my head around all of this brilliant advice and information but still not sure what direction I will take. Someone suggested it looks like i have a 2.00 ltr pedal assembly on there after seeing some pictures i posted up on another forum as i have the pedal return spring on the pedal and also the different frame that has the bolt holes for a clutch master cylinder to bolt to. I have spare pedal assemblies for both set ups and the clutch pedal end where the cable bracket attaches and hangs from look a different shape which might make it kick out at the opposite direction to where the cable enters the cab floor. Could this be the cause of all this trouble.

[multisi]

What forum is the photo on. Have you bought the green haynes manual, this shows how to set up the bend at the rear end of the cable to give the best operation.

[triggermala]

They should still be on the T25 forum. The cable moves through the tubing conduit quite freely without any snagging.