window edge rust

[mckenzie798]

Looking for some advice I have recently bought a T25 with solid body work and chassis but noticed some bubbling and water runs on the inside of the windows when the cards were removed. After removing the windows I have found quite a bit of rust in the window frame.

From looking at it I think that sanding down, curing and painting will be good enough for the majority but the rear window lower edge is very deteriorated.

I was hoping to cure this problem without welding and had a few ideas I am hoping to get some feedback on.

question 1 - Can I sand treat and then fiberglass a new edge over the existing lip ?

question 2 - can I cut a sheet of thin galvanized steel and epoxy this to the inside of the van to make a new edge all the way round both windows or will this make the edge too thick to fit into the seal ?

[TONYT25T25]

The restores in the club would be able to give good advice on this, I have used fibre glass for lesser jobs and not sure it would work for yours, I think I have an idea what you want to try, have you used fibre glass before, especially on such a long run, keeping it in place evenly with the same amount of thickness and height  along the length would be challenging and would include a lot of sanding to even it out, and it would have to be firm in order for the seal and window to fit properly. Not impossible but time consuming I would think especially if you want a nice finish.

[scotttie]

Welding would be easier than the options you have suggested. Once you've sculpted an edge with fibreglass or epoxied a sheet over it, it will likely break when you apply the pressure required to get the window back in. You may also get issues with the window not sealing properly and it's likely the rust will return. But above all, the fact it's not done properly will eat away at you and drive you crazy ...Or maybe that's just me :lol:

If you'd prefer not to try an weld it yourself, look for a mobile welder to do the work. It's a simple job and would probably be done in half a day, then you can just prime and paint it yourself if on a budget.

[kentishvanman]

Hi, I had areas similiar to yours and cleaned it up, applied Vactan, used thin metal glued on inner face, then filler. No problems. Just re- done very small areas that had this treatment about 10+ years ago. This time just needed cleaning,treating and some filler. A minor job. . .
Rust will always return. It is an ongoing problem. I usually spray WD40 or similiar around inner surfaces before inserting window rubber. You can get window rubbers with different size channels so thickness should not be a problem.
I think I used standard rubbers.

[Plasticman]

simple job maybe ?? the area the slider cover sits against is critical, if you weld a new piece of steel in there it will have to be above the swage and there will be rot below it, go lower (and fit a new cover retainer) and this will sit the cover too far away from the body , it will look rubbish and and the seal on the cover will be proud of the body as well, 
you need a panal with a shallow swage in to do it right ,(if thats what you want)
mm

[scotttie]

Good point about the swage line. Guessing a joggler wouldn't create deep enough a step to recreate the original swage line? However, from looking at the picture angled from the inside of the van, it looks like the rust hasn't gone much further than the extent of the seal, and in which case could potentially get a fresh metal edge to weld to before hitting the swage line.

[Plasticman]

I have the whole panels made for me, they go onto a brake press and get nicely formed
grind it back and see, you may just be lucky
mm