Engine Swap - DG to DJ

[Snowmark]

Now that the camping season has finished for us, the van is in the shed and I’m ready to start installing the DJ engine to replace a late DG.

DG mostly stripped and nearly ready for removal - just the oil filler tube and filter to take off. Engine bar bolts have had a decent Plusgas soak.
I’m also currently preparing the DJ - cleaning up the case etc. I originally wanted to install it with the full Fuel Injection system but I’m now thinking of putting it in on the carb so that I don’t have to change the fuel tank and fit an electric fuel pump- this can be a later project.

On the DJ, what should I be looking at doing to it before it goes in? I plan to do crank oil seals, all gaskets from filler tube/fuel pump/manifold. Also planning new engine mounts, new bolts everywhere and the engine bar has been newly powder coated. Anything else I should be considering?

I will post pics and updates as the install goes on - any advice/pointers/links to Wiki pages gratefully received. Wish me luck!!


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[itchyfeet]

Crank endfloat while the flywheel is off.

[itchyfeet]

I always swap exhaust studs to stainless so I never have to deal with rusty broken studs again

[Snowmark]

You read my mind - I have just order some SS 50mm studs.
Hmm, endfloat......something I need to read up about. I assume I need to buy a selection of shims, test fit, realise I don’t have the correct width then order some more?


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[itchyfeet]

I think 50mm studs are too long
From memory 40mm
threads are 25 deep but 20mm penetration is enough.
I use grubscrews

you can borrow my dial guage and I have some new and used shims you can borrow just replace what you use.

[Snowmark]

Thanks Paul, no doubt I shall take you up on the offer. Think I used 50mm when I fitted the exhaust to the DG, didn’t seem to cause any problems.


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[itchyfeet]

Thanks Paul, no doubt I shall take you up on the offer.

let me know when u are passing

[Mocki]

no need to take the oil filler tube off to remove the engine, infact no need to remove anything other than the under side tinwear that is bolted onto the chassis rails ....you will need to undo that main vac pipe tho !!!

just remember to disconnect the gear linkage off the gearbox before you lower the engine , saved bending it and making adjustments necessary when the engine swap is over and you cant get all the gears!!!

[itchyfeet]

no need to take the oil filler tube off to remove the engine

Thats not my experience.

If you remove the gearbox with engine then yes but the engine wont slide off the gearbox input shaft and drop down without the oil filler hitting the rear panel.

Maybe there is a way to do it but at £100 quid each I'm not risking clouting it and breaking it.

Once my engine is out I have to swap over all the parts which is not so easy with a 100Kg engine sitting on the ground so I need to lift it up to work on it an find some shelter if it's raining.

This is OK with an engine crane and a covered garage but lots of us don't have them so in my situation it's easier to strip stuff off and put it back while the engine is in the van. just my preference.

[Mocki]

no need to take the oil filler tube off to remove the engine

Thats not my experience.

If you remove the gearbox with engine then yes but the engine wont slide off the gearbox input shaft and drop down without the oil filler hitting the rear panel.

Maybe there is a way to do it but at £100 quid each I'm not risking clouting it and breaking it.

Once my engine is out I have to swap over all the parts which is not so easy with a 100Kg engine sitting on the ground so I need to lift it up to work on it an find some shelter if it's raining.

This is OK with an engine crane and a covered garage but lots of us don't have them so in my situation it's easier to strip stuff off and put it back while the engine is in the van. just my preference.

i have never removed one yet, there is ample clearance ,, both when taking engine on its own and with box.

you simply need to let he engine down further before sliding it off the box. Perhaps this is why you say that you dont need to take the gear linkage off ?

i have never used a engine crane , just a trolly jack for the engine and one to support the gearbox....

[itchyfeet]

Different methods I suppose.

Two bolts for the gear linkage, two nuts for the oil filler.

Not much difference in work.

[Ian Hulley]

Two bolts for the gear linkage, two nuts for the oil filler.

Not much difference in work.

IF you can get to the inner nut on the filler tube enough to seal it .... linkage nuts and bolts are simples.

Ian

[Snowmark]

Itchy taught me a handy tip using a section of square bar from a door handle held in a Ratchet spanner, works a treat!


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[ajsimmo]

I always disconnect the gear linkage before lowering the complete engine. The oil filler clears quite easily, gearbox onto an axle stand, then the engine will disengage and swing away on the crane. Drop it onto a dolly trolley, or if you don't have that just use a bit of old carpet and pull it out.
With a carb I take it all out intact. With injection I usually lift the manifolds/plenum off first and suspend it all (saves breaking into the fuel system).

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[itchyfeet]

Perhaps I missed all this advice on engine removal in the WIKI
can somebody point me to the section?

I know most of the second hand engines you see for sale have the filler tube broken.