Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
Difficult to say the exact cost as it would depend on the state of other bits. Engine build with custom oil cooler parts is a bit more than your estimate. Gearbox checked over by Aidan and mine is ok but Pete had his rebuilt. I'm replacing the cooling system for safety sake. With everything out the tank is being dropped and seat belt mounting plates fitted. Then it all has to go back in! I plan to keep the van a long time so I'm regardingbit as an investment.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
When I said the very best, I really meant one that is a quality build. I don't really need a mega WBX, just a reliable, long lasting one.
Having said that, I have had cooling system and overheating problems and it is probably this that has killed the engine.
There is a very good tech article in the Go Westy website that spells this out very clearly.
Having said that, I have had cooling system and overheating problems and it is probably this that has killed the engine.
There is a very good tech article in the Go Westy website that spells this out very clearly.

Last edited by Trundler on 13 Oct 2016, 08:01, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
In terms of performance, you can't make these vans perform well, they are just too square and heavy, and the gearbox is a major limiting factor anyway.
I also have an Alfa Spider with the 24v 3 litre Busso V6. Every time I drive it I am reminded just how far the Type 25 is from performing well. But we didn't buy them for performance, did we? Better to just chill out and...... trundle.
I also have an Alfa Spider with the 24v 3 litre Busso V6. Every time I drive it I am reminded just how far the Type 25 is from performing well. But we didn't buy them for performance, did we? Better to just chill out and...... trundle.

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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
You are guessing.
As said by Andrew of campershack could be the oil cooler at fault
steaming is commmon this time of year when cold.
if it steams hot or on hot startup thats different, I had a cracked head that did this.
Almost all rebuilders/ repairers will reuse heads barrels pistons etc if they look and measure up , unless you want to pay big money for new everything there will be no guarantee of long life. ( add up the costs yourself of new pistons barrels, cam, heads etc and compare with what you paid)
I suggest booking it in to Campershack for diagnosis.
As said by Andrew of campershack could be the oil cooler at fault
steaming is commmon this time of year when cold.
if it steams hot or on hot startup thats different, I had a cracked head that did this.
Almost all rebuilders/ repairers will reuse heads barrels pistons etc if they look and measure up , unless you want to pay big money for new everything there will be no guarantee of long life. ( add up the costs yourself of new pistons barrels, cam, heads etc and compare with what you paid)
I suggest booking it in to Campershack for diagnosis.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
I'm sure Ian could build you a 'new' 2.1 wbx but the cost in time is going to be similar, the parts prices would be different. One of the reasons the 2.5 wbx build is expensive is that it uses pretty much all new components. Only the casing is reused. The crank goes to the US to be reworked. Everything else is new and the heads and valves get a bit of fettling from Ian too.
Longer term I think people will start to keep vans a bit more 'original' but at the moment there are certainly cheaper options than a wbx rebuild to keep you going.
Longer term I think people will start to keep vans a bit more 'original' but at the moment there are certainly cheaper options than a wbx rebuild to keep you going.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
Thanks for the advice guys. The van is currently in my local garage. They are very good but this engine is unfamiliar to them.
They have replaced the head gasket (the metal sealing ring on one cylinder which was showing coolant leakage (well both on that side actually) but after reassembly it's still leaking. There were no obvious cracks in the head but it didn't look in brilliant condition.
Is it looking like a new head is required?
They have replaced the head gasket (the metal sealing ring on one cylinder which was showing coolant leakage (well both on that side actually) but after reassembly it's still leaking. There were no obvious cracks in the head but it didn't look in brilliant condition.
Is it looking like a new head is required?
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
Trundler wrote:Thanks for the advice guys. The van is currently in my local garage. They are very good but this engine is unfamiliar to them.
They have replaced the head gasket (the metal sealing ring on one cylinder which was showing coolant leakage (well both on that side actually) but after reassembly it's still leaking. There were no obvious cracks in the head but it didn't look in brilliant condition.
Is it looking like a new head is required?
You're a brave man sending your van to someone who is unfamiliar with these engines. I wouldn't call a plasterer to come and look at the boiler.
Why would the glass be anything other than half full?
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
oil in coolant, did you get them to change oil cooler?
Ask if they replaced lower barrel seals when tgey did the compression seals?
if these fail you get water in oil.
Ask if they replaced lower barrel seals when tgey did the compression seals?
if these fail you get water in oil.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
How did they diagnose the fault, conclude it was just one side, and deduce which one? Are they now doing the other side?Trundler wrote:They have replaced the head gasket (the metal sealing ring on one cylinder which was showing coolant leakage (well both on that side actually) but after reassembly it's still leaking.
On that basis, probably not. If it wasn't cracked, what was wrong with its condition?Trundler wrote:There were no obvious cracks in the head but it didn't look in brilliant condition....Is it looking like a new head is required?
Now that it's been disassembled, were there signs of inappropriate use of sealant under the compression seals? (Elite are known to do this). Also, Itchyfeet makes a valid point about the bottom barrel seals. Elite also erroneously use sealant on this face, along with the seal itself. If a barrel moved slightly during disassembly and is then reassembled without thoroughly cleaning the gunk off the barrels and case face, and renewing the seals, it will probably now leak coolant into the oil. Coincidentally we are doing this very job on an Elite DJ (that has done all of 80 miles) at the moment. Pics to follow...

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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
and oil cooler...?
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
I have to say that reusing parts that are within spec is really not a big issue, I have just stripped down my 1.9 which I built 3 years ago using second hand parts in spec. The pistons look as they did when I put them in, as do the barrels and crank etc The only slight signs of wear are on the cam bearings and big ends/mains but the clearances are as they were when I put it together. It had done 35000 miles since rebuild. The only parts of the engines that seem to fail often with age seem to be the heads so as long as you rebuild with a nice pair of AMC heads (with good valves) It should be ok. Considering my heads were old vw ones and the 35000 miles were on LPG there is really no discernable wear to the seats or valves, still sealing very well. So I say rebuild your old ones with care and measure everything substituting the bits that are not as-new in spec. If you can afford it get a pair of new heads , if not change the guides and valves and maybe get the seats re cut.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
ajsimmo wrote: Elite also erroneously use sealant on this face, along with the seal itself. If a barrel moved slightly during disassembly and is then reassembled without thoroughly cleaning the gunk off the barrels and case face, and renewing the seals, it will probably now leak coolant into the oil[
I have seen two engines with silicone sealant used, I wondered who was doing this

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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
Well the local garage are experienced motpr mechanics and classic car owners themselves. They just haven't worked on many wasserboxers.
I will ask them to check the oil cooler.
They are aware of the need to be careful about the lower barrel seals and are sure they are OK and undisturbed. There is no coolant evident in the oil.
I have previously had work done by Steve at Gasure but Chester is a long way to drive a faulty van, as is Grantham, otherwise it might be in more expert hands!
I will ask them to check the oil cooler.
They are aware of the need to be careful about the lower barrel seals and are sure they are OK and undisturbed. There is no coolant evident in the oil.
I have previously had work done by Steve at Gasure but Chester is a long way to drive a faulty van, as is Grantham, otherwise it might be in more expert hands!
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
The symptoms are evidence of oil in the coolant, excessive steaming from a cold start which clears as you drive but returns after stopping the engine or after idling for a while.
I think the garage diagnosed the problem by pressurising the cooling system with the engine cold then checking the cylinders for evidence of coolant. One cylinder has shown leakage both before and after the head seal replacement.
I think the garage diagnosed the problem by pressurising the cooling system with the engine cold then checking the cylinders for evidence of coolant. One cylinder has shown leakage both before and after the head seal replacement.
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Re: Where to get the very best wasserboxer?
Trundler wrote: excessive steaming from a cold start which clears as you drive but returns after stopping the engine or after idling for a while.
cracked head
Mine was Cracked into exhaust port, so coolant only leaked onto exhaust, not into combustion chamber
hot start gave steam.
cold start gave steam because it leaked into exhaust when hot.
when driving it was ok
hard to see and If I'm right then don't be too hard on the mechanic because it had me fooled for a long time

I think oil in coolant is a seperate problem ( maybe oil cooler)
often you find a problem you can't solve is two seperate problems.
Last edited by itchyfeet on 14 Oct 2016, 19:27, edited 2 times in total.
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