Oil Flush

Big lumps of metals and spanners. Including servicing and fluids.

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peteinnit
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Oil Flush

Post by peteinnit »

Hi All,
I've got a 2.0 l air cooled T25 with a sticky tappet. It only sticks when it's been left standing for a while and it usually frees itself after 10-15 minute run. Today it took considerably longer so think it may be getting worse. I do change the oil regularly and I have used valve cleaner additive previously, now wondering if I should do an oil flush with Wynn's or similar. Have read conflicting reviews on the stuff, so wondering if anyone has used it on here for similar purposes? Any other advise on trying to stop/reduce would be appreciated as would really like to avoid strip down for as long as possible! Worth removing and cleaning sump instead? Or anything else??

Cheers,
Peter
T25 2.0l Aircooled CI, 4 speed - 1982

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kevtherev
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Re: Oil Flush

Post by kevtherev »

Why not just replace the lifter?
Save your money buying all this snake oil and fix it.
You don't need to strip much down
Rocker cover off
Rockers off two bolts
Pull the rod out
Remove the tube
Pull the lifter out
Replace lifter
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)

peteinnit
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Re: Oil Flush

Post by peteinnit »

It's got the hydraulic tappets, I thought (and have been told), that to change one of these was a strip down job. Assuming lifter is another name for tappet.
T25 2.0l Aircooled CI, 4 speed - 1982

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itchyfeet
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Re: Oil Flush

Post by itchyfeet »

WBX needs head off or push rod tube crushing out and a telescopic tube fitting, that probably the duff info you were told.
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
itchylinks

Ralf85
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Re: Oil Flush

Post by Ralf85 »

peteinnit wrote:Hi All,
I've got a 2.0 l air cooled T25 with a sticky tappet. It only sticks when it's been left standing for a while and it usually frees itself after 10-15 minute run. Today it took considerably longer so think it may be getting worse. I do change the oil regularly and I have used valve cleaner additive previously, now wondering if I should do an oil flush with Wynn's or similar. Peter
It doesn't sound as if you have a problem. This topic is covered regularly and is also covered in the Haynes Manual as something that goes with the engine. Do a search in the box above on the topic and you will see.
The hydraulic tappet drains and it takes a good run for it to fill up and sort itself out. Also what oil are you using? That can make a difference. The best advice is not to leave your van sitting around - it needs to be driven regularly.

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kevtherev
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Re: Oil Flush

Post by kevtherev »

peteinnit wrote:It's got the hydraulic tappets, I thought (and have been told), that to change one of these was a strip down job. Assuming lifter is another name for tappet.
As itchy feet says really, for a WBX it's a ball ache, but for an Aircooled it's a nice easy Sunday afternoon job.

Hydraulic lifters have to be set properly or they won't ever pump up properly.
Setting the preload is important to this.

Warm the engine for 10 mins and let it cool for five
Start with #1
Remove the plugs
Find TDC firing stroke (both valves closed)
Undo the rocker locknuts
Undo the rocker adjusters untill they are free to move with your fingers
Tighten the adjusters until finger tight
Using a screw driver further tighten the adjuster 1 to 1.5 turns (I do 1.5 turns).
Tighten the lock nut
Do a compression check.

Do all the others the same
AGG 2.0L 8V. (Golf GTi MkIII)

peteinnit
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Re: Oil Flush

Post by peteinnit »

Thanks for the advice and tips. Sunday afternoon job will probably take me most of the weekend! Oil wise, I've got Halfords Classic 20/50 in at the moment. Cheers.
T25 2.0l Aircooled CI, 4 speed - 1982

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