Van not starting - any ideas! UPDATE

[300CE]

Howdy All, am having a problem with the bus in that it is not starting - the battery indicator is green and she turns over strongly, but that's all that happening, doesn't even sound like she wants to fire up. She started fine last weekend (Saturday & Sunday) and was running great but hasn't been started through the week. I've recently changed/done the following:

HT Leads
Fuel Filters
Fuel Pump
Ignition Module
Fuel Hose from pump to carb
Vacuum Hose
Spark Plugs
Dizzy Cap/Rotor Arm
Timing

I've also changed over the following today with spares i've kept/have, but hasn't made any difference:

Dizzy Cap/Rotor
Ignition Module
New Spark Plugs
Coil
(also checked i've got enough fuel - needle between the red and a quarter tank)

I tried some easy start and there was a splutter like it was going to go, but then went back to just turning over.

I don't know too much about carbs so have taken a picture and wondered if any of you guru's could confirm that it looks ok or if anything is untoward:



And advice/ideas much appreciated!

[BOXY]

Have you checked you're getting a spark and there is fuel in the carb. Fuel in the tank doesn't mean it's getting to the carb.

[300CE]

Cheers Boxy, haven't checked those yet so will be something to do through the week. I'm also going to invest in a compression tester as well - worth getting one for the price.

I do have a filter in the engine bay and whilst there is fuel in there, it's a piddly amount (probably about 2mm) so not sure if that's any indication. The filter by the tank is half full.

[BOXY]

Ditch the filter in the engine bay. Cheap plastic filter and hot engine bay aren't a good combination.

[New Kentish Campers]

Yeah, deffo get rid of any filters in the engine bay, Justin. If the engine bay filter isn't showing much fuel, then there's usually an inline filter next to the tank on the n/s. Check thats it's got fuel and if it needs replacing as it could be blocked. How old is the tank? Could have rust in it which filters won't like. Also check fuel delivery in case the pump is on its way out. If you have a mechanical pump, check the length of the lifter rod, which should be 100mm long, if memory serves. If it's the correct length, try the pump delivery by removing the outlet pipe from pump to carb and crank engine to see if its spurting fuel out. Beware of sparks, so remove king lead from distributor!!! Have a helper on standby when you do it too.

Sounds like fuel to me, seeing as you've changed the other stuff over. I'd avoid easy start to be honest, instead just try a little neat fuel down the carb to see if she tries to fire. If so, then it does certainly sound a fuel issue, as per the above. Your choke flap would be closed as in your pic, when cold. Should be open once warm.

[porthyt]

As NKC says above I would check that fuel is getting to the the carbs. Perhaps try starting with the the fuel cap undone as you may have an airlock/vacuum. Defo move the fuel filter out of the engine bay though. Perhaps also check you have a spark through the coil to dizzy HT lead and then also each individual HT lead to spark plug. Unscrew it, plug the lead back on, and use insulated pliers to hold it against the engine (metal) and check it sparks when someone else turns it over. Obviously careful if you have been undoing carbs with spilt fuel. If all is good then should be starting as you have fuel and a spark.

I'm by no means an expert but have had my bus fail to start a couple of times.

Hope that helps
Josh

[300CE]

Many Thanks for all the advice chaps - will definitely look at moving the inline fuel filter in the tank, at the mo the size of the pipe from fuel pump to filter and filter to return pipe differs in size (7.6mm to 5.6mm) but know I can get a pump with the smaller inlet pipe so will probably look at doing that so 5.6mm all the way through & get rid of filter.

Just to confirm I changed the fuel pump push rod when I changed the pump last week & have also tried to start it with the petrol cap removed. The fuel filter by the tank is half full with fuel & is nice and clean, but the tank is the original and I was going to change it when I get round to doing the coolant pipes, but will obviously change it if I need to.

My pals coming round with his multimeter in order to check the coil as well. Last test will be compression.

I'll report back with an update on Saturday once all tests have been completed. Typically, she was meant to be MOT'd that day but that'll have to wait for now.

Thanks again all, it's much appreciated

[stevelane]

Just a thought but when youve changed the ht leads to the spark plugs is there a chance the firing order has got mixed up? Only ask as I had the same thing on my mini. Would fire briefly when fuel was put in the carb so I knew there was a spark and I spent hours searching for the problem. Finally I switched two leads round and she fired first time

[BOXY]

You can rule out any electrical faults by checking you've got a spark. Just take out a plug, hold it against the engine casing and see if you're getting a spark when turning the engine over. If the plug is sparking, happy days, unless you've screwed up the timing or put the leads on in the wrong order

[stevelane]

Just reading back on your previous post you said she tries to fire when you use easy start so you do have a spark somewhere

[300CE]

Cheers again all - HT leads are all ok and in the correct order - just seems strange that she was fine last week but now nothing. Thought it could be condensation in the cap, hence the change there but no difference.

I'm erring on the side of fuel for now and am wondering if the new pump is duff as there may have just been enough fuel in the carb to start it last weekend but over the week it's settled and it's now not pulling enough through? Could be totally wrong but will see once have tested all the spark and pump at the weekend.

Am keeping my fingers crossed that it's an easy fix

[Smiffo]

Cheers again all - HT leads are all ok and in the correct order - just seems strange that she was fine last week but now nothing. Thought it could be condensation in the cap, hence the change there but no difference.

I'm erring on the side of fuel for now and am wondering if the new pump is duff as there may have just been enough fuel in the carb to start it last weekend but over the week it's settled and it's now not pulling enough through? Could be totally wrong but will see once have tested all the spark and pump at the weekend.

Am keeping my fingers crossed that it's an easy fix

Mine had similar symptoms when left standing after my shoulder operation last summer.
Was left for about 8 weeks though - fuel pump couldn't pull the fuel all the way from the tank after it had drained down.

Just follow the fuel in carb trick mentioned above. After 4 or 5 attempt of starting and stalling, it should eventually pull enough fuel through if it's the same issue I had ( certainly sounds like it, and if you changed fuel lines, there will be no fuel in them to begin with. )
I would try that in the time you are waiting for your mate...

My pump eventually packed up a few months later, and after replacing I don't seem to get the same probs.

That was the advice I got from others here, and it worked a treat

Good luck, there is nothing more frustarting than a van that won't start after you have done some work on it.
You end up doubting yourself - I know, I have done it a few times now....

[300CE]

Cheers Smiffo - the fuel in the carb will certainly be the first thing I try as if this works it'll most certainly be down to an iffy pump. In the meantime, here's a pic of the plugs I pulled out:

[New Kentish Campers]

Apart from the first plug, they dont look too bad. The inners should be a nice coffee colour. But they are just a little black, so is your c.o correct, as it looks a little rich? But if its not had a good run, local town trafic use will get them like that. White colour is a bad sign, i.e running too weak, so you are ok there. Good luck. My money is on a duff pump.

Mine failed on holiday the other year, same symptoms

[silverbullet]

Dont forget that distributor vacuum diaphragms can fail and often get overlooked, resulting in an air leak and that always makes starting difficult.