Alternative instruments and switchgear

[silverbullet]

Finding an SD1 2000 tacho may be a touch too far... I do have a universal Sun 5" monster tacho/shift light that came out of another bus, in the back are a set of dip switches to set it for 1-12 cylinders, so maybe I can pop the casing and steal the curcuit board from it?
Not really my field tbh...

[marlinowner]

Fairly confident that an electronics guy could come up with a pulse doubler circuit, must be the easiest option.

E D I T: http://www.bakerelectronix.com/products_tsd/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[silverbullet]

That's what I think is in the big tacho. It owes me nothing so must be worth a go.
The speedo is another matter. I can't see a number on the face for the turns/mile so that will be a paperclip and count to 1000 job... then find a convertor for that (or send it to Speedy Cables for a recalibrate.

[silverbullet]

I have developed an obsession for cheap Rover dash pods! Bought a complete Series 2 SD1 set for peanuts off the bay, giving me a 140mph speedo*, tacho, oil/fuel/temp gauges, led clock and a full set of switches

I read that SC Parts/Limora now remake the Girling remote dual circuit servo, as used on Rover P6 and Jag E-type etc. This is the key to this kind of project afaics.

Its the only one available to my knowledge, but over £300...

*for the superboxer

[silverbullet]

Too much?

http://s1103.photobucket.com/user/IanHo ... v.jpg.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[300CE]

I think it looks smart Ian and those Rover lines will suit the bus well

[silverbullet]

It lines up perfectly, warning lamps smack in the middle and it sits in the pod cutout of the GL dash edging too!

[300CE]

It lines up perfectly, warning lamps smack in the middle and it sits in the pod cutout of the GL dash edging too!

Made to measure then mate

[silverbullet]

Can't question it. The NOS spares are dirt cheap and plentiful too. Switches are only around 15 quid!

[jimrat]

The BMW 2002 uses a remote dual servo brake set up. Front discs, rear drums. Plenty of owners have swapped to discs at the rear with no problems.

The ATE servos are very pricey to refurbish, but this is a cheaper alternative:

http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/c ... rake-servo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers
Jim

[300CE]

Would it take a lot of fettling with regards to wiring, speedo drive etc? Interested to see how you get on as wouldn't mind one of those in mine.

[silverbullet]

I am about to offer it up to the bus and see how the land lies.
The post-82 SD1 had electric speedos, 77-81 had mechanical but the instrument pack is completely different, very late 70's.
Not a problem for my application as I am going to use the speed transducer on the Renault UN1 transaxle, but there is no reason why a similar trigger wheel/reluctor system couldnt be rigged up on one CV flange.
Syncroandy is the man for mechanical-to-electric speedo conversion in a T3.
The rest would be down to using the correct senders or adding some resistors to tweak the gauge readings, at a guess.

[silverbullet]

At the correct angle to view, but a little high. There are a couple of steel brackets to remove on the underside which will improve matters:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... yg5t5w.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Clears the reservoir ok, the tinware could be notched if need be:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... uhtxez.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

The 83.5-85 Rangie pod sits quite well too, after a little bracket mod around the back, but it needs dropping down for someone of my height!
Ok for the vertically challenged:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... saiayq.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
No good for a 6-footer's eye-line:
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... mpvmbr.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Reservoir clearance, after I pinged the top of the brake fluid float switch off
http://i1103.photobucket.com/albums/g47 ... s0rrpa.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Smiffo]

Hi Silver Bullet.

I was looking at one of your pics in this thread, and it started me thinking... ( Never a good thing )
I notice you had an oil pressure gauge on the Rover dash, and I started wondering how this would be wired in.

I think I have two oil sensors - one for low pressure and one for high.
So if your van is the same, how would you wire in an oil pressure gauge?

I imagine the pressure switches to be open circuit until a certain pressure level is reached, at which time they would then close and complete a circuit to earth - making the oil light come on?
I may have that totally wrong. I have no experience in working with them, it is just how I imagine they would work.

Is my thinking correct, and if so, would you simply change one switch for a type that actually changes resistance across a range of pressures to make the gauge work?

If I am way off just say. This is a question and an attempt to learn a bit about the operation of the oil indication circuit in my van, rather than actually having an oil gauge fitted, but I thought this would be an appropriate place ( and person ) to ask.

[silverbullet]

Changing the dash means that the VW buzzer/DOPWS will go, so just one switch for the low pressure warning lamp (I will use the highest I can find, 1 bar at least) the other tapping on the engine will have the pressure sender for the gauge.