Well did this recently
you get the tell tale rust streaks and you have a good idea what it is but you prefend its not bad and wipe it away eh
well we wiped it with a wire brush
we make and fit a lot of these and whilst they have featured in the odd resto i thought it might be worth a quick thread on it , also tv is carp at the moment
so best way to cure it follows..........................
......
and
..
we now end up with the following picks
......
.....
oh and for good measure these are the slider
....
....
part making
they sort of fit like this, as they get gassed in then happy to have an expansion gap to save distortion
I had the runner grit blasted and got a new cover channal , also mr bullet , note its spotted on
the panals a have made are 16g or 1.5mm or thereabouts
all new metal now
as is the slider
..
door back on , bit of gloss and new seal and were done , got some more picks, if i find them i add them
mm
Next....slider middle runner
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
Well, thread x here but,
first thing is to remove slider cover,
then hang a tape measure over the gutter at front and again rear of cover holder
...
you will now have half the critical information you need, take a picky as its more honest than writing it down.
you could have taken these picks to show the start and finish of the holding groove as this will become obvious later.
next you will need to drill 2 x 6mm clearance holes right through the runner to the inside of the van, if you look you will see 2 separate deformations of the inner wing, do one in each as far apart as is practical.
Also try not to drill these 2 holes through a spot weld,
so far the above applies to factory glass or van or van conversion and its also same for early and late doors
next locate the spots , wipe area cleanish with thinners or whatever you have, no thinners then nick your better halves nail varnish remover , or your own if thats your leaning, then a light rub with some old sandpaper then drill through the spots with an 8 mm bit , do not use a spot remover ,
next cut off the rotten inner panel as shown, yes you can cut less off it depends on damage but if youve gone this far then do it all , late vans are a little different at the front end so you will make your own decision here as ive not bothered to take picks of the last few i done
Oh and the slider runner comes away with the panal itself as when you did the 8mm holes it was as much to detatch the panal from the inner wing , my pick make sense i hope
so clean up all the rust etc and remove the runner and clean /blast ,do what you will,
and then cut the new backing panal to fit as in picks way up the thread.... the clever little channel for the cover is from schofields or jk, there may be others but........................
if you l;ook
and
you will see where to fit this, now the reason i said to measure start and finish is that this strip is longer than needed and you need to cut it so that you have a weldable tab left at each end
at this stage you do NOT weld the runner to this assembly
now im holping you have the window removed so that you can use long grips to secure this all in place, now refer to the picks you took and set this panal so the measurement look like the picky and no cheating . ok were not to a millimeter and having it a toutch too low is ok but to high and you will have bother.
when ypour 100% happy you now drill from the INSIDE through the 6mm clearannce holes. then you bolt the runner through and you are now 100% back in the same place , see easy, then weld it up as you se fit, i joddle both the upper join and the lower. it adds rigidity and makes a neater metal metal finish.
that took some describing , almost quicker to do it
hope it helps
mm
first thing is to remove slider cover,
then hang a tape measure over the gutter at front and again rear of cover holder
...
you will now have half the critical information you need, take a picky as its more honest than writing it down.
you could have taken these picks to show the start and finish of the holding groove as this will become obvious later.
next you will need to drill 2 x 6mm clearance holes right through the runner to the inside of the van, if you look you will see 2 separate deformations of the inner wing, do one in each as far apart as is practical.
Also try not to drill these 2 holes through a spot weld,
so far the above applies to factory glass or van or van conversion and its also same for early and late doors
next locate the spots , wipe area cleanish with thinners or whatever you have, no thinners then nick your better halves nail varnish remover , or your own if thats your leaning, then a light rub with some old sandpaper then drill through the spots with an 8 mm bit , do not use a spot remover ,
next cut off the rotten inner panel as shown, yes you can cut less off it depends on damage but if youve gone this far then do it all , late vans are a little different at the front end so you will make your own decision here as ive not bothered to take picks of the last few i done
Oh and the slider runner comes away with the panal itself as when you did the 8mm holes it was as much to detatch the panal from the inner wing , my pick make sense i hope
so clean up all the rust etc and remove the runner and clean /blast ,do what you will,
and then cut the new backing panal to fit as in picks way up the thread.... the clever little channel for the cover is from schofields or jk, there may be others but........................
if you l;ook
and
you will see where to fit this, now the reason i said to measure start and finish is that this strip is longer than needed and you need to cut it so that you have a weldable tab left at each end
at this stage you do NOT weld the runner to this assembly
now im holping you have the window removed so that you can use long grips to secure this all in place, now refer to the picks you took and set this panal so the measurement look like the picky and no cheating . ok were not to a millimeter and having it a toutch too low is ok but to high and you will have bother.
when ypour 100% happy you now drill from the INSIDE through the 6mm clearannce holes. then you bolt the runner through and you are now 100% back in the same place , see easy, then weld it up as you se fit, i joddle both the upper join and the lower. it adds rigidity and makes a neater metal metal finish.
that took some describing , almost quicker to do it
hope it helps
mm
- keytouch
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
This is great stuff. Could you please explain "joddle"?
Jonathan
A Camper called Wanda
1983 A reg Bilbo Marlfield conversion, 1900 Diesel 1Y engine
A Camper called Wanda
1983 A reg Bilbo Marlfield conversion, 1900 Diesel 1Y engine
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
http://www.frost.co.uk/joggler-joddler- ... punch.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
i have a few different ones, inc the above, link is for explanation really
personally the above one does not form a swage to accept an 18g sheet to lie flush but again i have modified mione to do so and to do another job but you risk wrecking £40 worth , have a web search and come back here with what you find
mm
i have a few different ones, inc the above, link is for explanation really
personally the above one does not form a swage to accept an 18g sheet to lie flush but again i have modified mione to do so and to do another job but you risk wrecking £40 worth , have a web search and come back here with what you find
mm
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
will also add that earlier i had said to drill right through with an 8mm bit , this size will usually remove all of the spot weld as even a tiny bit left grabs like a,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
also when you sit the new panel into place and its secured with the 6mm bolts you will have pre drilled holes on the inner wing to puddle weld through to the new part and ditto when you come to weld the runner back on you will have said same holes, see easy
now with regard to the finnishing seal that fits on the slider cover, ive had a few . schofields do one for a fiver but it seems to be made of plastic , very cheapie/nasty
got a couple from krappers marked up as classic or some such wording they cost £7 and were worth double that , really nice and pliable ,fitted perfect so 10/10
mm
also when you sit the new panel into place and its secured with the 6mm bolts you will have pre drilled holes on the inner wing to puddle weld through to the new part and ditto when you come to weld the runner back on you will have said same holes, see easy
now with regard to the finnishing seal that fits on the slider cover, ive had a few . schofields do one for a fiver but it seems to be made of plastic , very cheapie/nasty
got a couple from krappers marked up as classic or some such wording they cost £7 and were worth double that , really nice and pliable ,fitted perfect so 10/10
mm
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
Nice panel, any reason why you couldn't put an extra couple of folds at the top edge and spot weld it in the window aperture, replacing the whole top part of the panel. Also avoids a long continuous weld at the top which is hard to treat the back of.
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
Top work as usual
Jed
Jed
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Re: Next....slider middle runner
Aye andy. costs really and we made up the forms to make the item for a job for myself, the way it is now means it can be used on a panalvan as is, or a van conversion where as you know its the often untreated edge under the seal that dissapears this is then an easy fix and goes the whole length of the panel ,
with regard to a velle one , well with folding ,yes we could set it up to do so , but would need to change the tooling to give the correct radius to the outer fold and then you would still have to cut and play with the the ends as they curve up so we have what we have,
Now bearing in mind how often i have these areas to replace and that they are all the same profile i will have a look at geting some lengths made up , i wont do the corners but anyone half competant can do so if the bulk is made to allow for this.also have to be made in 18g no thinner , this is an issue i have with so many of the aftermarket bits , too thin to be worth using.
Very good work your doing on the pop conversions and nice to see good close up pickies and an explanation of why
you do it the way you do...
ta mr carlite................
mm
with regard to a velle one , well with folding ,yes we could set it up to do so , but would need to change the tooling to give the correct radius to the outer fold and then you would still have to cut and play with the the ends as they curve up so we have what we have,
Now bearing in mind how often i have these areas to replace and that they are all the same profile i will have a look at geting some lengths made up , i wont do the corners but anyone half competant can do so if the bulk is made to allow for this.also have to be made in 18g no thinner , this is an issue i have with so many of the aftermarket bits , too thin to be worth using.
Very good work your doing on the pop conversions and nice to see good close up pickies and an explanation of why
you do it the way you do...
ta mr carlite................
mm