Clutch woes.

[ninja.turtle007]

After an off-road event in my Tdi westy syncro I had to replace the clutch. Basically the bell housing filled with mud and water and the clutch slipped to the point where it wasn't drivable. I fitted a new Sachs clutch, LUK spigot bearing and thrower bearing. Since then the clutch has had a very low biting point and a quite a lot stiffer to press when cold. After a few miles it becomes more stiff and I really have to push the clutch to the very floor to get a smooth gear change.

Any ideas please?

[CovKid]

Instinct says slave cylinder. Have you bled the line?

[ninja.turtle007]

Instinct says slave cylinder. Have you bled the line?

That's what I having been considering. I'm hoping it's something simple like this as I really don't want to have to take the gearbox out again.

I haven't bled as it isn't leaking and the fluid hasn't gone down.

[CovKid]

Fluid in that line is independent even though its fed by same bottle up front. I had similar issues lately (with no loss of fluid) but fluid was old. Worth pushing some new through as a starter. Slave cylinders don't last forever either. Worth checking its condition. That said, others may have additional thoughts.

[ninja.turtle007]

Fluid was last changed about 4 years, 50k kilometres ago. As you said it may be worth bleeding it just case. Strange that all was well until I changed the clutch. But maybe I somehow damaged the slave cylinder whilst doing it.

[Aidan]

when the box was out to do the clutch the slave cylinder extends to full length it does that by drawing down fluid and often air past the seals and every time the seals run into the unrun in area they pick up abit so often see slave fails after gearbox or clutch work, hence I carry a spare slave cylinder in stock just in case
brake fluid should be changed every couple of years ideally including the clutch circuit

[axeman]

If its not been changed it may be woth changing the master and the slave. I had real problems bleading the clutch on the pick up. It turned out the master was not allowing the fluid to pass through thus i was not able to bleed it even with a vacume pump.

Neil

[ninja.turtle007]

Cool, that all makes sense. Thank you.

[ninja.turtle007]

So...... I have changed the slave cylinder and I'm happy that it is air free. Taking another look, I'm not sure the biting point is actually that low. It appears to be more the case that the pedal becomes very, very stiff as it nears the bottom, giving the feeling that it's all the way to the floor when it's not.

[Aidan]

is there wear in the clevis pin hole in the pedal such that the action is actually the bottom of the arm pushing the top of the clevis which is a sign that it's not that far from failure, endoscope or mirrors required to look at it, new clutch shows up faults in pedal as full travel is now required to ensure full release, when I put a new one in Edna I had to adjust the pedal pushrod a fair bit to get it to work, 5 years later the clevis pivot pin wore through the top of the pedal

[ninja.turtle007]

I had a look to his morning. There doesn't appear to be excessive wear. The push rod is at minimum adjustment. Rob has also mentioned adjusting this. Do you have any tips on how to adjust it as it seems impossible to get a spanner on it.

[Aidan]

I had a look to his morning. There doesn't appear to be excessive wear. The push rod is at minimum adjustment. Rob has also mentioned adjusting this. Do you have any tips on how to adjust it as it seems impossible to get a spanner on it.

I welded a pair of long sockets together, through sockets work, and good flex wratchet spanners and some peeps seem to be able to get a stubby spanner in there
if adjustment is alright don't mess with

[Oldiebut goodie]

I like posting this ( it shows the wear that can happen unnoticed)

[ninja.turtle007]

I had a look to his morning. There doesn't appear to be excessive wear. The push rod is at minimum adjustment. Rob has also mentioned adjusting this. Do you have any tips on how to adjust it as it seems impossible to get a spanner on it.

I welded a pair of long sockets together, through sockets work, and good flex wratchet spanners and some peeps seem to be able to get a stubby spanner in there
if adjustment is alright don't mess with

I'm taking the gear box back out this week. I'm sure the problem is in there.

[ninja.turtle007]

I removed the gearbox. Everything inside the bell housing was covered in mud/clay dust. Previously I had thoroughly cleaned inside the bell housing but I hadn't spent as much time as I should have cleaning the fly wheel.

Everything is now spotlessly clean. I fitted an new thrust bearing as the one I fitted previously was showing signs of wear on the inside where it was rubbing on the sleeve. A small smear of grease on the sleeve and I also rounded the flats on the fork arm.

Clutch is now silky smooth.

Thanks for everyone's input.