Blower gone suddenly 1.6D

[tommin]

I checked out the wiki and read a few threads, thanks Covkid for some good info there.
My symptoms were sudden, turned the engine on and the fan suddenly died????? Fuse blew, it is on a separate fuse link from wipers which confused me at first, as the wipers worked I replaced the fuse with a slightly heavier one and you could hear the engine power dip as I increased the blower switch, but there was nothing from the fan???? though the fuse held. (it will only be temp btw until I fix the unit).

I read the one thread where someone drilled a 5mm hole via front air duct panel to gain access to the fan bearing, this I think will be my first avenue to try. I need to get the blower working pronto as I need to get the vehicle tested, which here will be an automatic fail with no blower!

Any other thoughts gentlemen.....

[ghost123uk]

A few pointers.

Take that over rated fuse out before you have a dash wiring fire !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If the fan is seized or otherwise jammed, drilling a hole and squirting oil onto it won't fix it. That trick only works for a fan that is working but squeaking badly due to worn bearings. It never works for long anyway, I know, I tried it twice.

A non working heater fan is not going to be an MOT fail
E D I T = Ah, I just noticed you are in Finland. They fail a vehicle for an MOT style test on a non working blower motor = a bit harsh

At some point before winter you’re going to have to take the dash off and replace the fan motor. Lots in the wiki about it. Motor £35. Time about a full 8 hour day. Tools = mostly patience.

p.s. = Re "any thoughts gentlemen" = if it failed suddenly, it is possible that it's not the usual seized bearing issue, but perhaps a bit of one of the cardboard like flaps has become detached and is stuck in the fan blades. Mine used to make a right rattle noise sometimes when I operated the air direction controls, like putting a lollipop stick into your bicycle spokes. It turned out to be as I just described when i finally stripped the dash to replace a squeaky motor. All quiet now, no machine gun noises and no squeaks. Yup, I reckon the only way you can find out is by stripping the dash down. Oh, one last thought, it's not the live wire feeding the fan that has chaffed through and is shorting against some metal perhaps? Sadly your meter won't help here as the fan motor will read as a dead short anyway (as it should).

[tommin]

Temper temper ghost, like I stated it is only temp until I fix the unit, and as I write it is done. The blower unit is a must for de-misting, would be surprised an inspection would pass a vehicle without such measures? Anyhow I spent this morning first off wasting my time drilling a stupid hole in a stupid place nowhere near the unit

Went the Covkid way, dash out and whole blower assembly out, got the blower fan out, and it was sticking when turning by hand, seems some grunge got in somewhere. Anyhow put the air gun and gave it a right blasting, a touch of oil on the end bearing and it turned no problemo by hand. Drilled that little hole as recommended and some more oil. Connected to power supply hit the switch and it worked, but alas only on full power nothing on one and two of switch (i opened that last night so will take another look maybe i put it back together wrong?). So I at least put it through for inspection and sort that little dilemma later.

To anyone attempting this, 1, forget the idea of drilling a hole, you are just p**sing in the wind, 2 have a great deal of patience and be prepared every now and then to walk away from it and take a breather, coz it will never go as planned 3, pat yourself on the back for repairing a simple item but difficult task doing it.

[CovKid]

I think you misunderstand Ghost's point though, which I agree with. Nothing to do with temper and everything to do with sound advice. Even on a temporary basis, increasing the fuse rating causes the relevant wires (and indeed motor windings) to get very hot and without an adequate fuse, a fire can certainly be the result. I know its hot weather right now, but cheaper to fit a USB powered fan directed at your face than overload dash wiring. Glad you're on top of the job though.

Agree, the myth about drilling holes to lube a 30+ year old fan motor is bad advice, a point I've made several times now. Total waste of time and effort.

[tommin]

I stand corrected, fuse has been replaced with correct one. I read that due to the fan working only on full then I have to replace the resistor, any ideas on where from and what rating am I needing, I am out of my depth with resistors?

[CovKid]

You can buy them from Brickwerks or make it more modern and fit a variable fan controller (cheaper) which will give you a precise speed. Its come up before - have a search.

[tommin]

Did a test run up the road about 3 km got home put the fan on, a couple of minutes fan died am gutted

Ghost you were right, it needs a new blower, no point trying to repair something that old, and Covkid that variable controller is on the shopping list also.
A wasted day i know, but now i know what to expect second time round. Hat off to you both

[CovKid]

We just didn't want you knocking yourself out on this one Tommin.

I think I documented elsewhere that the mere act of starting a tired blower motor can draw considerable amps and its a fact that owners do increase the fuse rating to get around the problem and mess with WD40 etc when the fact is, 25+ years working is asking a lot of a motor. Its understandable as the thought of stripping out a dash fills some with dread but to be honest, you can do it in a day, certainly at a leisurely pace over a weekend and you get the opportunity to replace washer pipes, tidy up cables and even fit under-dash speaker pods.

The biggest challenge is opening the blower box if its a sealed unit in which case a dremel type tool is handy. You can drill through and reaffix blower case halves with cable ties if need be - or glue. Some cases have clips which makes it easier.

Now, personally, I'd change wiper motor too. Its not essential but its dead easy with dash out - impossible with it in.

Will try to find link to variable controller.

Ralph

[CovKid]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20A-12V-36V-4 ... 5d4ddb1092" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

£6.59 - 20amp - this would do it. You just put your original knob on the pot. Depends how hands-on you are but I'm sure we could talk you through it. Or, you can fit resistors like stock setup. The variable is cheaper and arguably more useful as you can set speed to your needs.

You just drop the board into a small plastic case and leave it tucked up behind fan speed knob or strap in place with cable ties - whatever works.

Ghost and I are electronic modders/hackers so we like this kind of thing but may not appeal to everyone.

Tonight I've removed my dash dimmer (no longer needed) and fitted a new rocker switch in its place for purposes 'unknown'.

[Sir Brixalot]

Interesting thread. When mine went it started off sounding like a birds nest swiftly followed by billowing smoke filling the cab

[tommin]

Thank you Covkid for taking the time and giving sound input/advice for me, much appreciated. I will no doubt be back to you regarding fitting that controller when I get it. Found a store here that has the blower unit for 56euro, not a bad price. It would though cost someone a small fortune if they got a garage to do this work for them wow, there goes next years holiday......... This is why I am grateful for such forums as this one. This is my dash out look





The long yellow cable is not need as it goes to the two roof top antenna pods, cb radio i guess.

[CovKid]

You can see why I fitted under-dash speaker pods, Theres LOTS of room under there. Mine sound fantastic and no need to mess with door cards. Do fit new washer hose. Its cheap from aquatic places and the original is sure to be full of limescale and/or brittle. Pull of the old foam from vents and fit something better. I found foam in my local pound store (art section).

Also, get some insulation under there - will pay to in Finland (still picturing Harry Palmer with tennis rackets on his feet).

New coat of black on the dash?

[tommin]

What wattage do I need for the blower variable controller. I just found this on eBay rated to a max 400w
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1Pcs-DC-12V-1 ... 4188c87691

Is this enough or is the 20amp needed for it???
Regards
Tom

[CovKid]

More the amps than watts. I think Ghost and I concluded that one rated at 20 amps would give the right amount of headroom. It won't get quite so hot then.

As for fitting, may need the potentiometer (control) desoldering from the board and attached back to board with flyleads and mounted through existing blower control switch (or new hole in dash) and perhaps use OE switch as an on/off control. See how best it'll fit. Easy enough to box the board and slip it up under the dash. The only thing you might need to do is limit the control somewhow so when its fully left (ie close to zero) it has a stop before that to just produce a low speed by default.

Ghost may have some further thoughts including the rating of the controller but I'm sure we settled on 20 amps for margin.

[tommin]

Okay that makes sense. As for the fitting I have no issues making another hole in the dash for, if that is the easier route than disconnecting things from the board then refitting. I have opted for this one:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20a-dc10-60v- ... 462adc831d