Snapped engine mounting bolt!

[chriscburgess]

Have just noticed that one of my engine mounting bolts has snapped leaving some of the bolt in the block.

Is it still ok to drive on the remaining 3 temporarily?

Also how do I get the bugger out. Can I do with the engine is situ?

[CovKid]

Yes its ok.

Depends how much of the bolt is showing. You'll need to support engine and remove carrier bar then assess

[itchyfeet]

Which bolts, there are only three bolts from the engine to the engine cradle, then four engine mounts to the engine bar, engine bar to body four bolts.

Of the three bolts into the engine two are long and can sieze into the cradle.

[chriscburgess]

Its the top left as facing the engine, appears to go through the bearer bracket into the engine. Shown in the photo sticking out. I have taken the bolt out and it is quite clear it has snapped off leaving the remains in the engine.

[itchyfeet]

Ok so you have two bolts left not three
VW put three there for a reason
I think you need to take the engine bar off and replace it
hopefully it snapped because it coeroded into the bracket and the bit will come out
I have seen this on an engine I bought but I had to cut the bracket off and buy a new one

[chriscburgess]

Bugger!

Thanks for the responses. I guess i will need to use an easy out to get the bolt out but not sure I can get a drill in there first to drill a hole for the easy out - if you see what i mean.

[itchyfeet]

It might just unscrew

[silverbullet]

Remember the case tappings have vibration-proof helicoils. Get the drilling wrong and you could end up in a fine mess. Heat, as ever, is your friend.

[chriscburgess]

Well i got the engine bar off and it has snapped off with none of the bolt protruding. Not enough space to get a drill in so I was thinking of getting a flexi- bit adaptor. Have removed the heat shield to provide a little more room.

I don't understand what heli-coil is and its significance in drilling out the old stud?

[silverbullet]

Helicoils can wrap around the drill bit, snag, then snap the drill; allsorts of fun. Why not drop the engine a little to get better access?
I would guess that the bolt had been loose and has fatigued, hence the flush break.

[chriscburgess]

Thanks.

Any idea what size bolt I need to get please. I know they are the longer ones but no sure of the size or type. Do they have to be a certain type if it has a helicoil?

[silverbullet]

They are a special because they have a smaller head than is usual for M10 (15mm a/f instead of 17mm iirc)
Can't recall the length though, never measured one. But nothing special because of the helicoil in the crankcase.

[chriscburgess]

They are a special because they have a smaller head than is usual for M10 (15mm a/f instead of 17mm iirc)
Can't recall the length though, never measured one. But nothing special because of the helicoil in the crankcase.

Sorry to be a pain on this one. Do you know where I might get one? I can't seem to find one anywhere.

[itchyfeet]

try a breaker like mick on here

Mick Crowe
NW_VW - T3 parts and accessories.
07968367046

or phone/email, contact details on websites

http://www.wagonbuild.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.t25direct.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[itchyfeet]

Spec is M10x85 high tensile 8.8 partially threaded (30mm)
15 mm across flats head but your looks like an early engine and I can't see why a standard 17mm a/f head would not fit.