Electric ignition overheating?

[Daz&Suz]

Hi Guys (& girls!)

We're new to the forum and like most people our first post is because we have a problem (sorry) with 'Bitsie' our 1987 Autohomes Kamper!

She's got a 1.9 DG engine (78 ps) and has been off the road for 5 years. The good news is she now has an MOT but we're having an electric ignition overheating problem. The problem is this, ever time she goes out for a drive or is run for 20 minutes she splutters them stalls and will not start for 20 minutes.

She's currently at the garage where they have replaced the ignition module but this didn't solve the problem, they are now suggesting replacing the distributor as this seems to get very hot. Do you think this is the right way to go or can you suggest anything else that we can then suggest to the garage.

Thanks guys for reading and we look forward to receiving your advice.

Daz & Suz

[marlinowner]

I'm assuming garage think its ignition related because there is no spark when it won't start? I would try changing the coil in that case.

[Daz&Suz]

Thanks for the quick response.

I'm planning to change the coil anyway due to the low cost. The vehicle has new plugs and HT leads and recon carb.

The engine labours to turn over a couple of times then fires and ticks over almost perfectly once off the choke. She dose have a miss fire on tick over every 10sec but I have not checked the timing yet and i know the engine has been out so that maybe the problem?

The problem we have is that she starts and runs fine for 20-30 mins either driving or stood (been trying to bleed the cooling system! - that's another post lol!) then she cuts out and won't start for 20/30mins. The temp gauge never gets to normal before the engine cuts out and engine block is never hot. The distributor dose however get hot. We have replaced the ignition module.

Any ideas? Also can you get the replacement parts for the distributor rather than buying a new complete unit.

Thanks

[marlinowner]

Can you confirm that there is no spark when it won't start?

[Daz&Suz]

I can't at the moment but the guy at the garage did say the coil was sparking correctly but that it wasn't getting thro to the plugs

[marlinowner]

In that case I would change the distributor cap and rotor arm. If the coil is sparking I would think the 12v parts of the ignition eg hall sensor are working.

[Daz&Suz]

I believe they have been changed as they look new and no scratching on the contact face in the cap and rotor arm looks fine and not pitted. Plus why would she run fine for 20/30mins before the problem occurs?

[marlinowner]

I seem to be playing "guess what the garage has tried".

[CovKid]

Thats why we left you to it

Lets hope the garage doesn't replace everything to find the fault rather than actually pinpoint it.

[California Dreamin]

There could be an issue with the Hall Sender Unit but not the distributor as a whole.
Heat sink (lack of paste to the back of the ignition amplifier)
Coil (is it the correct one?)

Going on what you have written....main suspects:

Fuel blockage (small gauze filter in the carburetor inlet) fuel filter itself, fuel tank outlet issue (rust or other blockage in the tank). Water in the carb?
Choke issue (where the choke is coming on ... broken bi-metalic spring)

Tank vacuuming? non genuine filler cap?

Air filter blocked.

Martin

[Daz&Suz]

Thanks for your replies guys.

I am conscious of the garage replacing everything which is why I want to get my head around the problem. To be fair to them they work on 3-10 year old VWs and Audi's so this is a curved ball for them.

I'm gonna replace the coil anyway as its relatively cheap. The hall sensor? Is that the pick-up point in the dizzy and can it be purchased separately?

My limited experience dose tell me there is a choke issue as when warm as she will Rev up nicely when under no load but stalls under load. The bimetallic strip? Where is this located?

If this was a 2.5pi Triumph engine I would have had it cracked by now!!! Plus "Bitsie" would be a lot faster lol!

Thanks for you time guys

Daz & Suz

[HarryMann]

Sorry to say this is so redolent of modern garage mechanics who have nill comprehension of ic engines or proper logical troubleshooting let alone any experience of type...
Why take to a non specialist garage...? Dont make excuses for them dont use twerps like that... mechanics should be mechanics not random black box swappers..

Sorry... all i can say is listen to Cali Dreamin while i think of something
Hall sender and heat sink sounds worth thinking about for starters.

Mmmm whole history very vague confusing...
Has engine been rebuilt with new pistons rebore rings etc. ?
Sounds tight or timing miles out

[itchyfeet]

Where are you?
somebody local may be able to lend you a dizzy/ parts to try and eliminate things rather than buying parts to do it.

[Daz&Suz]

Hall sender aquired, will keep you updated!

Thanks Daz & Suz

[Daz&Suz]

Ok so the hall sender doesn't fit! The connectors are different and the connector it's self is too big to locate into the side of the dizzy. We have spent the weekend trying to sorce a second hand dizzy from various firms and having no joy.

So my next question is... Do I modify I.e. cut the original wires to the connector and connect the new hall sender? The hall sender cost me £50 and once I have cut the wires I have no chance of a refund...

Thanks Daz&Suz