Early 1.9 to 2.1 conversion - stop me if I'm being stupid!

[Atomic]

If a pushrod is bent then I would bin it

Prices vary because they are different - the VW Heritage pushrod says it is a genuine VW item. The others are cheaper because they are aftermarket cut-to-length. Remember also the WBX used steel pushrods, not aluminium ones. I stick to original (used) steel ones. Tip profile is the same for all.

Pushrod tubes: The adjustable ones are meant to be a fix for leaky standard ones, not the default for all. Having said that then if you want to use them on all to make it easier to build then I don't see why not, it's just expensive that's all. The VW Heritage one does say it is from CSP, while Brickwerks just says "reproduction". The other cheaper sets you linked to are for Aircooled where the head and case end are the same size, but remember the WBX is bigger at the case end so you need the right ones. I have always used the regular stainless "crush" ones and never had problems.

[ricicles]

Well worth doing I think. Makes the van a lot easier on long runs and in the hills it's great. And I did get it on the dyno to have the jetting rechecked and sort the timing out. It is now running timing so i use regular unleaded. As it was on super I seem to remember 135 but cannot confirm as a lot of beery camping trips have been had since then . As for pushrods I remember using the chromoly cut to length jobs. The rocker angle needs to be correct so just winding the screws in is not best. Chin chin.

[CJH]

Thanks both. The various pushrods on that Aircooled.net site all seem to mention that they can stand much stronger springs and higher revs than I'm ever going to use, despite not being steel. Good point about the rocker angle though. Might be worth an email to them to see what they've got in the 272mm length - if I get them to cut them to a custom length then it looks like they're not so competitive on price any more.

Same for the tubes - if they have telescopic tubes suitable for the WBX I quite like the idea of being able to remove them and reuse them, e.g. to replace the seals if necessary. Some of those Aircooled.net sets are cheaper even than the cheap stainless ones.

[CJH]

Clutch question: I'm looking into making the best use of GSF's 35% discount on everything, so I'm looking at some of the more expensive items I might need for this project. The clutch is one of those. They seem to come in several sizes, so I'm looking for advice on which size to get. I've bought a second hand flywheel to go onto the 2.1 engine (with the aim of leaving the 1.9 as complete as possible for a future buyer). I assume the quoted clutch size refers to either the friction disc or surface of the flywheel. I've seen sizes of 215mm, 228mm and 230mm, and I'm worried that the 228mm and 230mm sizes are difficult to distinguish. The flywheel I've bought measures 231mm inside the starter ring, and as near as I can tell it's exactly 230mm across the surface where the friction disc will touch.

So do I need a 230mm or 228mm clutch kit?

[CJH]

Another question aimed at making the most of GSF's 35% discount.

Quote from another thread:

The code seems to work on some big ticket items - £206.70 delivered for a cylinder head, complete with valves. Doesn't say whether it's reconditioned or new - anyone know anything about GSF's T25 cylinder heads?

I spoke to GSF - these are apparently brand new heads, not reconditioned ("we only sell new parts"), made by a company called AMADEO. At this price they're not much more than the cost of replacement valves and springs, so it doesn't seem worth my while to have the old heads cleaned up and then rebuild them.

But the big question - is AMADEO a good brand for WBX heads?

[toomanytoys]

Amadeo Marti Carbonell = AMC
The heads are a good casting, but the valves are not great.. so should be replaced with good quality ones.. (OE or similar)

[CJH]

Amadeo Marti Carbonell = AMC
The heads are a good casting, but the valves are not great.. so should be replaced with good quality ones.. (OE or similar)

Thank you - that's exactly the advice I was after (if not the answer I wanted to hear). It looks like I'd be in for another £200 or so to replace all the valves, so the benefit compared to refurbishing the heads I've got is partly lost. Would OE valves need lapping in on a new AMC head? Could I save a bit by going for 'similar' rather than OE, and if so, which brands would you recommend?

I'm still tempted though, since the new head would have all new springs, guides, cotters etc., all the stud holes will be good and there'll be no corrosion around the gasket mounting face. I've cleaned up one of the heads I already have (it's good working in a place with a well-equipped engineering lab), and will post pictures soon - there are small cracks in the space between the valves, and although I get the impression these are common and nothing to worry about I'd welcome an expert opinion.

[CJH]

Pics of the head I've cleaned up.

Obvious deep corrosion outside the cylinder liner, but I don't believe that's a problem. I think I can use a metal filler to smooth the gasket face (is that right?). The chambers and valve seats look ok too I think, although obviously I'll need to get the valves out for a good look, and then make a decision about the valves and guides. What about those cracks between the valves?

The other head (not cleaned up yet) has less corrosion, and the combustion chambers look very similar to this one (complete with cracks between the valves), but nearly all the stud holes have been helicoiled and several of those need replacing.

[kevtherev]

There was a discussion on here re "cracks"
Ah here it is..

https://club8090.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=110862" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[CJH]

Thanks Kev. On balance I think I'll go for the nice new castings, while they're this cheap.

[CJH]

What about clutch identification? Is there a way to tell which one I need from this photo of my second hand flywheel, e.g. from the dimensions or the roll-pin configuration? Brickwerks for instance list two different 228mm clutches, one fits 'most' petrol engines and the other fits later 2.1s. I'm *guessing* this might be the difference between the two GSF clutch kits, and the one described as 230mm might just be the later 228mm version. I'm also assuming the engine and gearbox are immaterial, and what matters is the flywheel. I have no idea what engine my second hand flywheel came from.

[CJH]

Fuel pumps:

I've been cleaning up the crank case. I noticed today that there's a blanking plate where the fuel pump mounts. A quick google for mechanical fuel pumps turns up lots that are specified for the 1.9WBX but none (that I've seen) that are specified for the 2.1. Is this just because the 2.1s all had injection with electric pumps? For my proposed carb setup is the mechanical pump in my existing 1.9 OK to go into the 2.1?

I know there are advantages in an electric pump and I may well go that way eventually, but for now it would be good just to transfer over my known working mechanical pump.

Here's a photo of progress with the crankcase - left half after a steam clean and grit blasting, right half after a bit of a polish with a mini wire brush attachment for my Dremel.



...and before:

[ajsimmo]

Your DG fuel pump will work just fine, it's driven by a pushrod that rides on the dizzy drive, and that's the same part that fits just the same in both engines. (Make sure there are two shims under the dizzy drive to make it sit at the right height - very important for fuel pump stroke and dizzy drive engagement).

[CJH]

Thanks Andrew. I've just checked, and the drive does have a couple of shims at the base. What I don't have though is a distributor. From what I can tell the 2.1 dizzy has a slightly different advance curve to the 1.9. I've no idea how much difference that would make, but ideally I'm on the lookout for an old 2.1 dizzy that I can refurbish.

[ajsimmo]

You're probably better with the DG dizzy imo, as it only has a single vacuum unit which connects to the back of the carb (permanently open port). The DJ 2.1 dizzy is dual vac, having advance (ported at throttle body) and retard connection (non-ported at plenum chamber), and cannot be correctly connected to a carb setup. Look in the wiki for the comparison of curves and you'll see the DG dizzy is near enough and serviceable with appropriate timing adjustment.