Random cutouts, fine the next day

[colouredFunk]

Hi,

So for the last year my van has broken down quite a few times, ending up on the back of a tow truck home, try starting it the next day, all is fine and dandy!! and it will be for weeks/months...

Each time it looks to be electrical as fuel is getting to the injectors.. It doesn't start on LPG either.

I've replaced the ignition amplifier, distrib cap and rot arm at recommendations from mechanics.. But they haven't been able to look/fix the problem as by the time I get over to them, it's starting fine.

Someone down the pub suggested it could be the immobiliser? I'm not too sure about that, as I'm getting ignition lights and the engine is cranking...

Please if anyone could at least point me in the right direction to how on earth I even starting trouble shooting this?


2.1 DJ injection - Petrol/LPG
Thanks ):)

[mark]

does it shudder to halt once up to running temp........temp2 sender............. can also be faulty and cause intermittent breakdowns.

search stabilisation on here, brickwerks and the samba. clean the earths and clean and remake all the electrical contacts with contact cleaner

mark

[colouredFunk]

Interesting thanks. It doesn't shudder to a halt, more just cults out..however there is another problem which I've always assumed to be seperate, it doesn't idle when starting from cold, you need to give it a few high revs then it will tick over fine...after doing a bit of research on here that points to being the temp2 sensor as well!

I've just ordered one of these http://www.vwheritage.com/vw_spares_Tem ... 200451.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is there any way to test if the old is faulty?

[itchyfeet]

Replace the ignition switch with a quality one from brickwerks not a chocolate one
Common fault wrth ruling out

[colouredFunk]

How would that effect it, if it's appears to be cranking fine, just not firing?

You mean one of these right http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/i ... ch-t3.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[itchyfeet]

Yes that's it

Cranking red/black and ignition pos black both come from the switch
Its possible your ignition pos from the switch is high resistance

Got to be worth a ruling it out for that money
Also have you checked engine bay earths?

You are going to have to do you fault finding when it happens, check for good sparks and fuel supply
Check volts at coil pos to body when cranking for starters

[mark]

below should help but variations in temp change the readings, easiest way to swop for new. check you have the O ring and change the hair pin clip for plastic 50p from vw and while your there get one for the temp sender.................don't ask

mark

http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php/c ... -blue.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/TempSensorII.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

E D I T. mine would switch in to cold engine mode usually when driving in traffic causing it to shudder to a halt from the over fuelling. cleaning all the electrical contacts inc earths helps no end in getting the engine running well

[colouredFunk]

I've just found a load of comments/tests done by recovery company last time I broke down before getting towed.

-Checked fuses etc repaired injector wire
-Checked for HT + Fuel fuel deliver OK
-No HT checked output from coil no HT
-Bridge HT checked no spark generated
-Suspect Module U/S

What is a U/S?

Does this help any other clever person on here debug the problem?

[Ian Hulley]

What is a U/S?

UnServiceable aka knackered.

Ian

[colouredFunk]

ah right... so what module is he talking about then? The ignition module?

[mark]

what have you done to it so far

mark

[itchyfeet]

No spark could be ignition module u/s or could be because it has not enough supply voltage/current due to poor wiring or bad earths ( or ignition switch)

my experience of electrical/ electronics points me to wiring rather than the module if its random

[colouredFunk]

I'll double check the earths tomorrow.

The Ignition switch is probably about 5 or so years old from GSF.

I've replaced the Ignition Amp and Distributor Cap / Arm so far.

[itchyfeet]

The Ignition switch is probably about 5 or so years old from GSF.

I.

Gsf have a bit of a reputation for cheap parts I bought one about 5 years ago too from them and didn't fit it as it looked poor quality
Its my spare now

[colouredFunk]

Ok I'll order a new one from brickweks. Can someone explain the theory behind why it could be the ignition switch..