Carburettor/Engine running issues

[RichH75]

Right I've fitted the new choke pull down unit, she ran for a lot longer than she has done and the old unit was definitely not working properly. She cut out after about 5-6 minutes and without warning with a little backfire, thought I'd check the electrical connections and sprayed the HT lead connections on the dizzy and inside of it. She then started straight away ran for a further 10 minutes and cut out after I'd adjusted down the idle slightly once the cooling fan had cut in.

I'm starting to think there is an issue with the dizzy before I put my hand in my pocket thoughts please gentlemen and ladies.

Rich

[pionte]

where does the temp gauge read when she cuts out ?

Martin

[RichH75]

The temperature gauge was about half way.

Should of also mentioned that when it cut out the second time, I tried to restart the engine a few times but it wouldn't start.

[kevtherev]

to me, I think you have fueling issues when the engine is warm.
when it's cold the engine starts.and runs.

I suspect another air leak, just be sure there are no more before moving on
chief suspects now
the servo hose, the braided type are notorious for leaks, vac lines, distributor diaphragm, inlet manifold gaskets, carb gaskets

[RichH75]

Well that's starting to narrow things down, I've put new carb and inlet manifold gaskets in and tightened to torque settings. There are new vacuum lines fitted to everything so indeed to look at the braided line and the dizzy advance one (was thinking of replacing it anyway) this is all good to work through my little elimination game

Rich

[kevtherev]

has the mixture screw been fiddled with?

[pionte]

I spoke to a local guy to me a few weeks back, he told me that he got his 1.9DG van cheaply because the previous owner had become so disillusioned with an ongoing issue with it cutting out once warm ( sound familiar ! ) , this new owner took it to an auto electrician who apparently diagnosed that the electrical connections where wrongly connected, the one to the carb heater , the fuel cut of solenoid and the temperature sender... now I have been raking my brains to try and work out why getting these 3 round the wrong way would cause the engine to cut out when it reaches a certain temp. I am at a loss but can only take him at his word, why would he have told me if he didnt believe it to be true .

Have you gone back and double checked the connections?

[kevtherev]

yes I read that one too.
in the junction box there is a relay (relay No.1)
it is operated by the temp 2 sender.
At 65 deg the relay turns off the carb and manifold heaters.

disconnect the temp 2 sender on the thermostat, this will disable it, with no effect to the engine running (in this weather)

[RichH75]

Kev yes the mixture screw has been uh hm tampered with.....

Pionte I have gone back and checked the connections they are as they were when I got it (I'm terrible at reading wiring diagrams) I'll check the wires again tomorrow and take some pictures to post up to clarify what connections are connected together

Which unit is the second sender?????

Rich

[pionte]

At 65 deg the relay turns off the carb and manifold heaters.

interesting... if, by some mishap this connection was now plugged into the fuel cut of solenoid.... it would kill the engine at 65 deg ! Would be strange, but worth checking.

[kevtherev]

Kev yes the mixture screw has been uh hm tampered with.....

Pionte I have gone back and checked the connections they are as they were when I got it (I'm terrible at reading wiring diagrams) I'll check the wires again tomorrow and take some pictures to post up to clarify what connections are connected together

Which unit is the second sender?????

Rich

without a gas anyliser we could be chasing dragons if the mixture screw is wrong.
A basic setting is from fully in.. 3 turns out, then you need a more accurate device
the temp two sender has a lilac/black and brown wires to it on the left side of the thermostat housing as you look at it

[RichH75]

Right up date time I've now managed to get the engine running for nearly 20 minutes, when I then switched it off. I swapped the cables around as the carb heater and manifold heater were joined I had rejoined the wires as I found them before dismantling the carb , so I get the feeling that this wasn't right. Kev thanks for the tips looks like the brake vacuum hose is faulty as when I gripped around it with both hands it ran smoother, also wound the mixture screw in and the turned it out 3 turns/1080 degrees. I'll let you know how I get on once I've replaced that hose I'm also going to get some contact cleaner and go through all the electrical connections.

I did try restart the engine once I'd turned it off but it just turned over with no joy, temp gauge was reading half way. Do you think that this is the mixture issue with the hose or should I start looking elsewhere

Thanks again for all the help so far guys

Rich

[pionte]

I think that the vacuum hose may well be the new number one chief suspect ! wrap a plastic bag tightly round it and see what happens

try to eliminate one thing at a time.