Idle problems

[Novice in need]

Wow .... thats rather complicated looking il certainly have a look at all above and try myself after of course sourcing a vacum pump mechanism so i can do the 300 millibar pressure? also gas anyliser i think il just defo go to MOT place!

Thing is it actually runs well, real smooth and fairly quiet, iv let it run outside parked up until hot and just moved it back and forth up the driveway, starting isnt a issue either!!
I will of course take it for a road run to properly test it (im hoping im very lucky)
Obviously i am not holding out for much luck!!! however whilst it is behaving im gonna test before i adjust any other elements
(i really could do with a xmas miracle as i need transport )

Thanks again Kev il keep updating the progress!

[kevtherev]

hey look that post about the idle cam is for the nerdy...

if it works OK then feel smug you did this all your self

[Novice in need]

Im happy to be a nerdy when it comes to getting it right and i will get to it, piece of mind is great.

Im honestly not being smug when i say im hoping that i dont need to at the minute ......

i genuinelly appreciate yours and everyones advise even spot on nerdy good advise!!!

[Novice in need]

Well as i am clearly not that lucky the van went out on test run and it started fine ran really well but alas she still stalls at junctions Grrrr lol

Ok il be re-setting the cam as directed soon just going to wait for the manual i have ordered and combine the diagram with instructions that Kev has put up..... that carb wont get the better of me

Failing that working il probably opt for the throttle paddle ad bushes being refurbed as read on Wiki earlier.....i guess no one said it'l be easy

[kevtherev]

Well as i am clearly not that lucky the van went out on test run and it started fine ran really well but alas she still stalls at junctions Grrrr lol

while the carb is on, just take off the duct, make sure the 3mm gap is present in the choke flap, start up and watch the choke flap, if you use the throttle it should open and as the engine warms it should start to open... until vertical (hot)

[Novice in need]

Hi Kev,
I have done that lastnight and the gap is present approximate 3mm and the flap once started gradually rised in the full upright position (no stalling or hesitation) in fact im up at silly Oclock still thinking about the blasted thing .

The only thing i had tweaked was the adjustment screw on the rear of the Pull down unit, as i have read that the pulldown unit ONLY helps with the initial start up of the vehicle by pulling the choke off! So i just wanted to get the start up process correct, ensuring that 1 fully depressed accelerator pedal prior to turning the ignition was sufficient to start her up.

To be honest im vague on the whole process which the carb goes through...

1, Starts up, choke pull off works against choke so it isnt over rich but rich enough to start ? secondary diaphram kicks in after
2, electrical current heats coil (initially situated in housing) which starts the automatic choke magnetic spring retracting
3, cooling system once heated continues the heating process of coil magnet (choke flap rises to full up right position)
4,This is maintained until reaching temperature between 50 - 70 degrees when choke flap should snap shut?
5, Whilst all this is going on the cam should be syncronised so it steps down 4 stages Grrrr lol

Im not even sure i have the coil set in the right position iv aligned the marking on the housing between the two lines on the main body to estimate factory settings as previous owner had it offset allowing the choke to disengage earlier,

Im wondering if i should try putting it back to where he had it as when i intitially drove the van it never stalled however did run very high once up to operating temp (kinda irratic), the stalling started later, im thinking possibly when the pull down choke fully malfunctioned?

OOps iv gone on a bit

[Nicola&Tony]

Going back to your original post, you've not had the van very long so do you know when spark plugs and leads were last changed and the same for air filter, dizzy cap and rotor arm?

Tony

[kevtherev]

Im not even sure i have the coil set in the right position iv aligned the marking on the housing between the two lines on the main body to estimate factory settings as previous owner had it offset allowing the choke to disengage earlier,

quite possibly, adjusted, but the bi metal coil or spring affects the idle speed cam too

Im wondering if i should try putting it back to where he had it as when i intitially drove the van it never stalled however did run very high once up to operating temp (kinda irratic), the stalling started later, im thinking possibly when the pull down choke fully malfunctioned?

Agreed, The high idle was the air leak. The stalling was the mixture, if that has been altered then you will never get anything else right.
I suggest getting the engine on the gas anyliser and sort out the mixture

[Novice in need]

Going back to your original post, you've not had the van very long so do you know when spark plugs and leads were last changed and the same for air filter, dizzy cap and rotor arm?

Tony

I dont know andwill try to get these changed at some point in the near future....however the air filter and leads etc seem to be in good nick as for dizzy il have to test when i find out how (currently awaiting delivery of book hope it helps) Thanks Tony

[Novice in need]

quite possibly, adjusted, but the bi metal coil or spring affects the idle speed cam too

I have read that if i get this right then she should run right (im awaiting the carb book i ordered)

Agreed, The high idle was the air leak. The stalling was the mixture, if that has been altered then you will never get anything else right.
I suggest getting the engine on the gas anyliser and sort out the mixture[/quote]

Il do some road tests today with the various adjustments on the coil housing just to see what difference it may make.
Then on Monday il locate a MOT centre that can adjust the right fuel/air mixture for me.
Thanks Kev

[Nicola&Tony]

....however the air filter and leads etc seem to be in good nick as for dizzy il have to test when i find out how . . .

To be honest with you, just because something looks ok means absolutely nothing if you don't know how many miles the engine has done since they were last changed. Same applies to dizzy and rotor arm.

As others have said earlier in the thread, basics first!

The easiest test that I know of for all those parts is to change them one at a time and see if that fixes your running problems. They're not expensive parts.

Tony

[Novice in need]

Hi all i am sooooo pleased to announce that she is fixed........ yep i have had the pleasure of hearing Knitting needles lol

Basics first! air leaks was the problem firstly from the pulldown unit then i had to ensure the coil was adjusted correctly ..however to be honest the base gasket was not on there when i took the carb off (but as a novice i was not aware of how important this was, forgive my ignorance ) .

Anyhow i have sourced a replacement gasket and is on order, but lastnight i stripped off the makeshift gasket i fashioned and decided to utalise compound joint sealant (8pm by the moonlight) as she was running like a bag of nuts and bolts.

First thing this morning i ran down put the carb back on, Result was peaceful tipper tapper of the engine she was running a dream and after taking a long drive i can confirm i have the quietest smoothest engine iv ever owned (just means i can hear the Mrs talking about shoes now lol........O and no stalling at junctions NOT ONCE! in fact i have to prick me ears up just to make sure she is still running! WHOOP WHOOP

A HUGE... thank you to all for their help and advise

[kevtherev]

well it's nice that you can come back and thank folks..

some don't

[Novice in need]

That surprises me as iv really think this club is cracking..... (not just because i have resolved the problem with the van) as ppl on here just appear that they cant do enough for newbies to make them feel welcome