T25 Aircooled Fuel tank

[paul66beetle]

Ok,

So been meaning to do this for a while. Finally set about getting the tank out to replace the sender!

After reading the instructions on the wiki, I can confirm that they are not 100% right for the Aircooled as you need to disengage the fuel filler pipe from the tank before lowering it as it wont budge otherwise. The wiki says you can lower it then dissengage it.

So expecting to find some rust, having read all about the faults, I was not surpirsed to see some flakey rust and some paint. I got the wire brush out and got rid of any loose flakes.

There is a one small pin hole where some loose rust came off. The rest looks ok. I've treated it all with Kurust and contemplating welding the small pinhole.

Did consider the tank sealant teatment on Frosts, but that costs about £60 all in. WIth that price I'd be tempted to buy a new tank. Only problem is that you can only buy newer tanks with different size filler necks? Is this a massive problem?

The old sender looked pretty rank and crusty, so no wonder the guage didn't work.

Anyway what would you guys do.

I'm gonna order some new rubber grommets and the small rubber filler neck as this was perished, the steel filler neck looks a bit aged too, crusty down the neck. Has anyone cleaned theirs and how?

[billy739]

i have a tank in the for sale section .

if you weld it take proper precautions or you will blow yourself up!

tank repair kits are usually fibreglass resin of some sort with strands or matting for strength. a small blob of car repair stuff(not filler) usually does the trick.

[richnewton]

I've got the plastic filler neck and breather if you go for a replacement tank

[paul66beetle]

I've got the plastic filler neck and breather if you go for a replacement tank

What exactly is involved with going down this route?

[paul66beetle]

i have a tank in the for sale section .

if you weld it take proper precautions or you will blow yourself up!

tank repair kits are usually fibreglass resin of some sort with strands or matting for strength. a small blob of car repair stuff(not filler) usually does the trick.

What sort of tank? Same as mine or newer?

Problem is you are a fair distance from me, and the postman will probably have a fit trying to deliver a fuel tank!

[CovKid]

Deffo wouldn't tackle welding a tank. Even when they're empty they're a hazard. Better to fit a new one or go for some kind of glass fibre repair.

[paul66beetle]

Deffo wouldn't tackle welding a tank. Even when they're empty they're a hazard. Better to fit a new one or go for some kind of glass fibre repair.

I realise gasses build up but dont worry I dont plan on blowing myself up. Welding the small pinhole will be better than any repair type resin. You can weld tanks once you have ensured they are safe to weld.

Enough info here http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/show ... 056&page=6" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Still considering a new tank, but trying to work out whats involved due to the size difference of the neck etc.

[ianboydsnr]

just use some JB weld, you can buy it in Halfords,

[paul66beetle]

just use some JB weld, you can buy it in Halfords,

Unsure on Jb Weld. Yet to convinced. Anyone here used it?

[paul66beetle]

[paul66beetle]

Hello,

Yes you can weld upon a fuel tank.

However, to do so in safety, you must have it steam cleaned before doing any work on it.

Commercial vehicle garages usually have a steam cleaner, (not a pressure washer).

One advantage of sreaming is that it will remove all the crud from the tank, inside and out.

Equip yourself with a bright lead light and place it inside the tank. You will then be able to see any pinholes. Probably more than you thought.

If there is evident damage to the seams, you will find it difficult to repair the tank satisfactorily.

I would prefer to braze the holes rather than weld. If you can't do it, try contacting a radiator reconditioning firm, as they are well used to this kind of thing.

I would use an acid cleaner, and then hard braze (at least 20% silver) and use borax as flux.

Make sure the tank is thoroughly passivated, (copious amounts of epsom salts in very hot water), if not you'll be redoing the thing in no time

Cordialement,

Fantastic advice. I like the tip on the light inside the tank.

[paul66beetle]

ok so if I upgrade the tank to the later one i will need the following items and I wont have to bodge it or modify anything else?

I will need the plastic filler neck in the above diagram and it will fit to everything else just fine?

Availability of the plastic neck seems to be hard from new or even on Ebay. Is this a hard item to source, JK dont stock it. Is it expensive to buy from main dealer?

I did see a poster had one for sale but couldn't find his advert in the for sale section.

[paul66beetle]

Any suggestions re painting the new tank? Is it worth getting some POR15? I dont trust the paint thats already on the tank. I pressume its just a cheap covering.

[Red Westie]

New fuel tanks are only 'primed' painted and need additional protection if you want them too last, smooth hammerite would be my recommendation or a specialized 'rubberized' underbody paint like schultz etc.

Martin

[paul66beetle]

New fuel tanks are only 'primed' painted and need additional protection if you want them too last, smooth hammerite would be my recommendation or a specialized 'rubberized' underbody paint like schultz etc.

Martin

Not a big fan of Hammersite, it was used in the 90's on a magazine featured Beetle I once owned. A few years later it was rotten. Hammerite chips too easily, especially underneath a car where the stone chips get up. Quite a few reviews out there support this. Its fine on iron railings etc.

Though like you said the underseal would help protect any paint I put on. I'm thinking POR15 or Rustoleum or an equivilent chassis paint (avoiding Hammerite)