T25 1.9 W/C Running problems

[cartspj]

Just got the van back, seems to be running much better but time will tell. Garage changed all filters, pipe etc as recomended and stripped and cleaned the carb, removing the 'sealant' on the gasket. Mechanic thinks it was crude in carb due to the use of the sealant, gonna drive it aboout for a couple of day see how it goes, before shooting off to have the rest of our hols on wednesday. Fingers crossed it'll be fine!

[lowdown8]

I had identical problems, totally ruined my holiday in Dorset this year, however on return, I stripped the carb down myself while watching TV in my lounge one evening, my wife was not impressed, I followed online instructions and my Haynes manual and discovered a few interesting things.

1: at the bottom of the carb float chamber is a very small hole which feeds a seperate compartment, which then feeds fuel into the second venturi (main opening) the hole at the bottom of the float chamber, this was totally blocked up as any sediment that sits in the float chamber, simply has to roll into it, to block it??, this caused a major flat-spot, practically no medium range, kangarooing like mad etc, backfiring. (This was my main problem)
2: My second Venturi/hole flap in the carb wasn't closing fully, this was sucking in unnecessary air, this had to be adjusted slightly. (we tested this by holding my thumb over the second venturi opening while it was running, major change.)
3: the Fuel Bypass or Cut-off solenoid was knackered, staying closed, making idle adjustment incorrect and all over the place. (simply put a spare on)
4: the Throttle Diaphgram was worn, quick change to a new one.

It now runs beautifully, however prior to this, I had replaced fuel pump,fuel push-rod,Vacuum Advance Unit, vacuum pipes, gaskets, pulled my hair out etc etc etc

I even has the brickwerks rebuild kit sent to the campsite in Dorset to fit a few bits there.

It was simply a blockage at the bottom of the float chamber.

Bear in mind, I didn't know what a carburettor was prior to this, and from my recent posts you will find that I got rid of my original carb, bought a weber conversion, which was even more of a nightmare, and then got rid of it and thus had to buy a second hand original pierburg before the above took place....doh!

Tip: I used an assorted pack of different thickness safety pins pulled straight, to clear the holes and jets, and voila, all is now running as it should.

Wish I had done this before my holiday.

[edoh]

where is the brake servo hose in this picture - that the rev suggests you take off n pour water through to see if there is a leak?

[kevtherev]

where is the brake servo hose in this picture - that the rev suggests you take off n pour water through to see if there is a leak?

It looks like you have had the perishable hose (that you fill with water) replaced with a stiff white plastic version. Coming off the manifold via an elbow, then from the stiff plastic to the bulkhead connection. (next to the junction box)

I would still check out the clips and connections

[edoh]

will have a root round -
thanks for the information -

[NicBeeee]

HI
I had a similar problem with my new van, stalling at junctions when changing gears when the engine is warm, checked all the usual fuel leeks, breather pipes etc and replaced all the worn ones. Problem continued intemitently unitl i realised it only happens when the engine hatch is down (not suggesting that it is a good idea to drive it with it open) It was then that I noticed the breather pipe leading from the airfilter to the intake (the one nearest the rear light cluster) was being bent with the lid down, I assume that the combination of the heat, in turn softening the pipe, and being squashed by the lid was nipping the little bugger shut. After removing it totally the van runs great. No probs as of yet when changing down gear since.