1.6 TD Won't start after rebuild - Help please!!!

[barralad]

Hello everyone,

I've just rebuilt my '89 1.6TD and I'm having a really bad time trying to get it started.

Basically the alternator belt snapped on the motorway, and by the time I'd got it over to the hard shoulder the damage had been done (steam everywhere). When I stripped the engine down and had a look at the head the two central valve seat areas had blown apart badly, suggesting the head had been on its way out for some time before this incident. The engine was turning freely (didn't nip up) but there was water coming out of the inlet manifold into the air box (the water jacket had been exposed on the damaged head)

I managed to get hold of a nearly new second hand head which was in excellent condition, I rebuilt it, static timed the engine, the fuel timing, and finally the cylinder head was timed off the back keyway. I've been trying to start it for a couple of days now and I'm getting it partly firing, but it's like it just won't catch. I've tried tow starting it, bleed the injectors several times and it's just the same.

I'm beginning to get desperate now as it's stuck down at my folks in Cumbria (I'm up in Aberdeen), and I'm travelling home every weekend to try and sort it!!! I'm beginning to wonder if I could have the timing 180 degree's out, but can't understand how I can?

Any ideas or theories would be much appreciated, I've tried searching for anything similar both here and the net but upto now haven't found anything thats helping........hope one of you's can throw something obvious at me that I've missed as up untill now I'd never worked with a diesel motor (although I've been on a fast learning curve!!!).

Thanks, Craig...

[sciroccotune]

assuming that you got the correct marks on the fly wheel the only thing i could see you getting 180 out is the cam. iirc the way to tell is to make sure that the cam lobes on the end nearest the sprocket are facing up e.g valves closed.
Once you are sure that you have the static correct try to rotate the pump a tiny amount whilst cranking in case that pump timing is out.

That said I remember mine was a bugger to start after the rebuild, needed a bit of cold start and plenty of turning with loosened injector pipes.

If you still want to check about the timing i wrote a full description on here a whiel back, a search of my name should find it.

good luck!

[barralad]

Hi and thanks for the reply,

The engine was stripped after the timing marks were lined up on the flywheel/clutch, the fuel timing was then locked off (using a modified socket extension bar) using the timing hole. Both of these lined up before taking the belt off showing the engine as being static timed. Now I didn't notice the head and whether the No.1 lobe was up as the head was coming off. But what I'm thinking now is this may have been 180 deg out, hence why its not starting. The new head went back in with No.1 lobe up, timed off the slotted keyway on the back of the cam, and re-assembled. Trouble is, I'm now thinking if we've timed the engine (flywheel/clutch) 360 deg out (ie in the exhaust stroke rather than compression). Thats the only thing I can now think of!!! I really can't see how though, as the fuel timing was bang on with the engine static timed (2 revolutions of the crank to 1 on the fuel). The only thing we did was tow the van in neutral with the head/belt off 50 yards onto the drive when we saw the state of the cylinder head. The van wasn't in gear though, so the static flywheel/clutch timing shouldn't have moved very much if at all (the fuel was still locked off). We've tried bleeding the injectors etc at least 5 times for any airlocks, still nothing. The van is coughing a bit like it's trying to start when its straight off the glow plugs (at least showing they are working), but after that there is nothing.

Really starting to scrathch my head now, as there is only one way the head cvan be timed (No.1 lobe up which means keyway at the top) which it has been. So if the cam timing is 180 out, also the fuel must be 180 out (this also does only 1 revolution per engine cycle or 2 revolutions). Hence why its really stumping me!!!

I'll have a read over your timing artical though and see if it throws any light on anything.

thanks, Craig

[barralad]

Still been racking my brain, and I think there could only be one possiblity. If somehow the crank managed to turn, then that would mean the head was 180 deg out to the fuel timing. Thinking about it, it doesn't matter if the heads 180deg out as its the head that decides whether its a compression or exhaust stroke. So I need to change the fuel timing by 180 deg and leave everything else where it is.

If this doesn't resolve anything I'm stumped!!! The only other thing is injectors or a piston ring (but I really can't see that), as even if its losing compression in one or two cylinders I would think it would still start but run rough???

I'm going to try the fuel timing this weekend, then swap the injectors from the old head to new head and hopefully, finger crossed it will run again.....

[dave friday]

the pump has a mark for no1 injector[on the timing sprocket] and a corresponding mark on the plate that the pump bolts to, are these aligned?[when no1 cylinder is at top dead center?].

[barralad]

Hi Dave,

Didn't notice a mark on the pump timing, just a locking hole (to lock the pump to the engine casing), which when we stripped it lined up with the TDC on the Flywheel. This is from the procedure in the Bently manual (for timing the fuel). So, everything was spot on. As you say the fuel has to be timed off the head. When we rebuilt it, we aligned the engine TDC, the fuel was locked off back in the same spot (it will only lock once every 360 deg), and the head was timed off the back keyway (meaning the No.1 lobes were at top dead centre). I'm heading back home tomorrow evening to have three days (again!!!) working on it, so I'll have a good look at the fuel pump timing mark you mention and see if tis in the correct position when locked with the tool. I can only assume it will be, but I never noticed a mark for the timing.......so I could be wrong.

The only other thing I can think of is the head timing might be slightly off if it moved when torquing the camwheel back on, but it would only be by a tenth of a degree or so. I would still expect to get some life out of it. I'm also going to switch the injectors off the old head (just grasping at straws!!!)....

Thanks for the reply, any help is much appreciated.

Craig.

[dave friday]

Try filling the fuel filter,have you got the cold start lever out?are all the glow plugs ok?did you check the pump timing with a dial gauge?
once, after a head gasket change i ran the battery flat trying to start my van,after a re-charge it started! is the fuel cut off solinoid ok loose wire on it?

[barralad]

Hi Dave,

I'll have a look at all your suggestions tomorrow when I'm back home. Haven't seen a fuel filter that I recall (but I'll double check and fit one if not), glow plugs seem fine as when it is coughing a bit (trying to start) it's immediately after the glow plug light goes off (but will check with a meter), then there is nothing. I haven't checked the pump timing with a gauge (I don't have one - and haven't touched anything to do with the pump or timing). I'll check the wires again that came off the head. They all looked fine when I put them back on, and I did rough/clean the terminals before reinstalling!!! I've also tried the cold start on numerous occassions (never needed to use it before though, always started no problem...

I'll go through everything again, including all the timing, glow plugs and everything else thats been mentioned. It's got to be something really stupid I'm over looking!!! I'm even considering buying a diesel compression gauge, just to check everythings spot on with the engine as well.........

Cheers.....