my van is a faliure AGAIN :(

[meggles]

Gas analyser? Wish I could read one. I can just about manage to read a Haynes manual!

[mr_clarkson]

UPDATE:

well the leads was obviously a mistake I made when i changed the leads this morning i went out there all eager to get it going and was back to sqare one, the constant backfiring had gone as i had changed the leads but the original problem of the not idleing and revs going up and down was still there.

i proceeded to change every rubber pipe i could find and jubilee clipped everything! Still no joy after much cursing and spitting of dummies i placed my hand over the right hand carb and it stalled pretty much straight away, i then did the same on the left carb and although it stalled it didnt do it as cleanly or quickly as before!!!!!

i decided to take the carb back off and the manifold tyo check if there was a gasket on it/the gasket ok. anyways in doing this it turns out the manifold was snapped in 2 places!!!!! i undid the outer 2 bolts and the thing came off!!! the inner 2 still there with the snapped bits of manifold!!!!

so hopefully when i get a replacement it will be cured fingers crossed!

none the less, thank you all so much for the advise ect over the last couple of days this has been driving me crazy and i was at my wits end with it, hopefully this will be an end to it now :pray

Ian thank you for the advice and offer of phone advice,its ver much appreciated, i may still take you up on that if his doesnt cure it!

would this leak in the left manifold cause the very low co2 but very high hc reading?

cheers again
jon

[CovKid]

Well you won't get a satisfactory set up with a leak like that and at a guess it'd need a richer mix just to run badly. Replacing the damaged inlet will definately improve things but as I said before, do check throttle flap wear as that also provides a route for air to get in. As I say, plenty of home-based engineers around that could disassemble the flap and shaft, ensure it runs true and possibly machine it true as well as fit new bushes. The difference that can make is incredible so if one carb is off get hold of the throttle (lower) flap shaft and see how much movement is in it. You're looking for up and down movement rather than in and out, the latter could be fixed with shims.

[fullsunian]

UPDATE:

well the leads was obviously a mistake I made when i changed the leads this morning i went out there all eager to get it going and was back to sqare one, the constant backfiring had gone as i had changed the leads but the original problem of the not idleing and revs going up and down was still there.

i proceeded to change every rubber pipe i could find and jubilee clipped everything! Still no joy after much cursing and spitting of dummies i placed my hand over the right hand carb and it stalled pretty much straight away, i then did the same on the left carb and although it stalled it didnt do it as cleanly or quickly as before!!!!!

i decided to take the carb back off and the manifold tyo check if there was a gasket on it/the gasket ok. anyways in doing this it turns out the manifold was snapped in 2 places!!!!! i undid the outer 2 bolts and the thing came off!!! the inner 2 still there with the snapped bits of manifold!!!!

so hopefully when i get a replacement it will be cured fingers crossed!

none the less, thank you all so much for the advise ect over the last couple of days this has been driving me crazy and i was at my wits end with it, hopefully this will be an end to it now :pray

Ian thank you for the advice and offer of phone advice,its ver much appreciated, i may still take you up on that if his doesnt cure it!

would this leak in the left manifold cause the very low co2 but very high hc reading?

cheers again
jon

Jon, ya cracked manifold or any air leak between carb and engine will cause high HC'S. Fingers crossed that should fix it
IAN

[mr_clarkson]

thank you, i got a pair of manifolds today, put it on, and guess what. i cracked it and noticed 1 of the studs is not hoklding, (stripping in the head i then tried to fit the manifold from the other side but there is still an air leak i think, its not holding revs at a steady level atall

put some loctite asket sealent on the gaskets but didnt seem to make any differance

[HarryMann]

Goodness, you are up against it...
Sounds like a real butcher has been at this van

Yes it's running very weak (though no mechanic can 'smell' that, unless he meant that he could smell it wasn't rich )
Until the inlet tract is completely sealed from air leaks, and the carbs given half a chance to supply a consistent mixture at idle (set back to where they were before leads swapped), all sorts of unstable running, hunting and strange emissions will ensue..

The rubber connectors on the balance pipes don't need /have hoseclips normally (Pressures are mainly -ve)



Anyone want this, pretty sure it's like a 2.0 CU filter box?
Part Nos on it are: 45 117 85 935 and 071 129 607 A

=========== handbrake =====

The cables both need to run free in the outers , be balanced reasonably underneath at the 'Vee' and both sets of shoes adjusted on the self-adjuster clicker bars to come on together with application of the hanbrake lever. You can normally tell at one or two clicks up, whether the cables feel about as taught as one another. Sometimes the outers take a false run under the swing-arms, making one much tighter than the other.

[mr_clarkson]

thsank you for the advice, i think the handbrake is "qacceptable" now although i have a feeling i need to replace the rear cables.

as for the engine / running i am getting sick of the darn thing now. i have got it all reconnected up tonite, made up some pipework for the brace vacume as i have used a left hand manifold cos i broke the only spare rh one.

its all conected, started up and sounds a bit rough, once warm it seems to idle OK but not great the revs are still picking up for no reason but only sometimes, (it does this weather the idle stabalization unit is bypassed or not)

also the revs get quite low and almost stalls sometimes but if its warm it is tocking over (unless i put it into drive then i have to give it some throttle or it will stall)

now this may all be just because the carbs need setting up properly now, i dont know, frankly i dont have the spare cash at the moment to call someone out to tune it so all i can think to do now is put it in for MOT retest again and hope and pray the emmisions pass this time.

If not then i think that is it for this season and i will have to forget getting it on the road untill next season so i can rebuild the engine, get new carbs ,manifolds and what not

was planning to rebuild the spare engine whilst i used this one ready to swap it in the winter, but we will see. gonna try and get it to mot station one night tis week if i can get off work early, if not it will be sat morning before leaving for goth

[mr_clarkson]

something else i forgot to mention, with it being an auto, if it is in drive and you then knock the lever into either park or neutral the revs pick up ALOT it revs really high for a while doesnt seem right but not sure how why its doing it?

[HarryMann]

its all conected, started up and sounds a bit rough, once warm it seems to idle OK but not great the revs are still picking up for no reason but only sometimes, (it does this weather the idle stabalization unit is bypassed or not)

also the revs get quite low and almost stalls sometimes but if its warm it is tocking over (unless i put it into drive then i have to give it some throttle or it will stall)

All symptons of weakness or air leak in inlet tract somewhere

====
Picking up speed when knocked into D or R is probably some sort of idle load stabilisation, its under some torque converter load, better than idling, so loads up and runs better. Quite normal for autos...

[fullsunian]

Well good luck mate I hope it passes, but it still sounds like its got abit of an air leak. its a shame you don't live local to me
IAN

[maxstu]

Whats stopping you from giving it to to Steve at Gasure? He's only about 15 miles away.

Surely even a phone call to him might shed some light on your dilemma?

[mr_clarkson]

well a few things stop me going to gassure, first up its alit more than 15 mile away and i have no mot or tax plus i dont have the cash at the moment.

[soundman]

Hi Would agree, sounds like a leak somewhere, you say you removed the carbs and cleaned them. Might be a starting point to double check the gaskets carb to manifold. They can easily draw air here if there are any imperfections, surfaces need to be completely flat.

[HarryMann]

If you're still uncertain about the carbs (maybe one has been changed or not a matched pair), get them checked out by a member who has a same Solex setup. Good close-focus photos might be worth doing.

Air leaks: If you haven't already tried it, spraying Easy Start or WD40 around suspect leaky areas when idling is a popular trick, to see if the revs rise.

[fullsunian]

If you're still uncertain about the carbs (maybe one has been changed or not a matched pair), get them checked out by a member who has a same Solex setup. Good close-focus photos might be worth doing.

Air leaks: If you haven't already tried it, spraying Easy Start or WD40 around suspect leaky areas when idling is a popular trick, to see if the revs rise.

Be carefull when spraying easy start or WD, especially if there are any loose sparks from the ignition about...I have seen an engine get very hot very fast doing that But ya it will show up an air leak
IAN