Buzzer Of Doom
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Buzzer Of Doom
OK fitted S/Hand engine in van (please no preaching about S/hand engine's).
Starts and run's ok oil light go's off after starting engine until you build the rev's up 2000 + and then the buzzer go's off. (I know it's meant too).
Have replaced the wires to the oil switches as old one's where bad.
Will replace the oil filter as soon as I can get one (tried all the local stores) did change the oil as I had some, any other ideas or advice.
Other then the buzzer the engine sounds good smooth and quiet.
pete
Starts and run's ok oil light go's off after starting engine until you build the rev's up 2000 + and then the buzzer go's off. (I know it's meant too).
Have replaced the wires to the oil switches as old one's where bad.
Will replace the oil filter as soon as I can get one (tried all the local stores) did change the oil as I had some, any other ideas or advice.
Other then the buzzer the engine sounds good smooth and quiet.
pete
1986 1.9 DG with Gas High top Membership No 2048
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http://www.club80-90.co.uk/wiki/index.p ... essure[url]
heres the wiki link also look at the linkat the bottom of the page.[/url]
heres the wiki link also look at the linkat the bottom of the page.[/url]
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Thanks for the reply, Iv read most of the articals about the light comming on and just wanted peoples fixes, I read one where changing the oil filter worked.
I know i shoud go to a garage to have the oil pressure done but I dont trust most so say Experts.
Iv orderd filter and new switches from JK should Ill flush the engine and try new oil and filters and switches.
Pete
I know i shoud go to a garage to have the oil pressure done but I dont trust most so say Experts.
Iv orderd filter and new switches from JK should Ill flush the engine and try new oil and filters and switches.
Pete
1986 1.9 DG with Gas High top Membership No 2048
Re: Buzzer Of Doom
Pete,
I had the dreaded buzzer syndrome a few years ago. Turned out to be a bad contact in the two way connector in the engine bay, the first one along the wire from the pressure switch that is near the water pump. Any break in the circuit to the dash module will trigger the buzzer (when the revs exceed 2000 for 3 seconds IIRC.)
If you disconnect the wire to that pressure switch, and ground (earth) the wire, and then run at 2000 revs or more for a few seconds, and the buzzer sounds you have an electrical problem. The pressure switch is closed with normal oil pressure and goes open circuit if pressure falls, the opposite to the other (lower) pressure switch that does the light without the buzzer.
Dont know if that makes sense, but it worked for me, I planned to put a push button switch on the dash to break the circuit briefly while driving so that I would know the system was functional, but not yet done!
Mike
I had the dreaded buzzer syndrome a few years ago. Turned out to be a bad contact in the two way connector in the engine bay, the first one along the wire from the pressure switch that is near the water pump. Any break in the circuit to the dash module will trigger the buzzer (when the revs exceed 2000 for 3 seconds IIRC.)
If you disconnect the wire to that pressure switch, and ground (earth) the wire, and then run at 2000 revs or more for a few seconds, and the buzzer sounds you have an electrical problem. The pressure switch is closed with normal oil pressure and goes open circuit if pressure falls, the opposite to the other (lower) pressure switch that does the light without the buzzer.
Dont know if that makes sense, but it worked for me, I planned to put a push button switch on the dash to break the circuit briefly while driving so that I would know the system was functional, but not yet done!
Mike
Re: Buzzer Of Doom
Dan Wood,
Now you are asking! I am no electrician, and the little I have read on electronics is very basic, but the "dashboard" is fed with a reference signal from the alternator, whch of course is directly connected via the belt drive to the crankshaft pulley, and I would say that is how the dashboard "knows" the engine is above 2000 rpm. Someone with more knowledge of electrickery will no doubt expand on my theory before too long. Could equally be the dizzy signal, must have a look at the H-ynes book of lies as it is often called, and see if I can make sense of the wiring diagram.!!!
Mike
Now you are asking! I am no electrician, and the little I have read on electronics is very basic, but the "dashboard" is fed with a reference signal from the alternator, whch of course is directly connected via the belt drive to the crankshaft pulley, and I would say that is how the dashboard "knows" the engine is above 2000 rpm. Someone with more knowledge of electrickery will no doubt expand on my theory before too long. Could equally be the dizzy signal, must have a look at the H-ynes book of lies as it is often called, and see if I can make sense of the wiring diagram.!!!
Mike
Re: Buzzer Of Doom
Dan Wood,
The bible according to H-ynes (as I read it) shows the signal taken from terminal 1 on the coil and via a fiendish route to pin 9 of the 14 pin connector to the flexy printed circuit behind dash and then via the aforesaid flexy, to the rev counter (if present) and to J114 "Oil pressure monitor control unit" This appears to be the same for both the 1.9 carburettor and 2.1 injection engines.
Diesels? 'I Know nothing' (Manuel, Fawlty Towers.)
Mike
The bible according to H-ynes (as I read it) shows the signal taken from terminal 1 on the coil and via a fiendish route to pin 9 of the 14 pin connector to the flexy printed circuit behind dash and then via the aforesaid flexy, to the rev counter (if present) and to J114 "Oil pressure monitor control unit" This appears to be the same for both the 1.9 carburettor and 2.1 injection engines.
Diesels? 'I Know nothing' (Manuel, Fawlty Towers.)
Mike
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Thanks Grun ill try that, Ill read it a couple more times but what you say is that if I ground the lead to the switch next to the water pump then the buzzer will sound when the engine is above 2000 revs.
At work tonight I was talking to the fitters (bus) and they said that it was unlikely to be worn bearings as the engine/oil would not have got hot as I have only run the engine for no more then 5 min and not driven it on the road!
Any other ideas or experiences as then we could list possible courses on the wiki site, as there seems to be lots of peeps who have had this problem for different reasons
At work tonight I was talking to the fitters (bus) and they said that it was unlikely to be worn bearings as the engine/oil would not have got hot as I have only run the engine for no more then 5 min and not driven it on the road!
Any other ideas or experiences as then we could list possible courses on the wiki site, as there seems to be lots of peeps who have had this problem for different reasons
1986 1.9 DG with Gas High top Membership No 2048
Re: Buzzer Of Doom
zinfandel,
No, buzzer should not sound when wire is grounded. If it does you have an electrical problem. Buzzer should sound when wire not grounded (i.e. open circuit.)
Mike
No, buzzer should not sound when wire is grounded. If it does you have an electrical problem. Buzzer should sound when wire not grounded (i.e. open circuit.)
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Re: Buzzer Of Doom
Holly,
Look here for a good write up on the workings of the oil pressure monitor system, the link is also in the wiki.
I think we can assume that your VW engine has the correct pressure switches fitted, so the fault is most probably in a wiring connection disturbed during the engine change.
If you follow the wire which should be connected to the pressure switch near the water pump, you should come to a (two way?) connector in the engine bay, check this one is making contact and the next along the way to the dashboard is a 7 way connector (T7a) engine compartment junction box (pin 7). Check that one to.
Lets see how zinfandel gets on with his wire grounding.
Mike
Look here for a good write up on the workings of the oil pressure monitor system, the link is also in the wiki.
I think we can assume that your VW engine has the correct pressure switches fitted, so the fault is most probably in a wiring connection disturbed during the engine change.
If you follow the wire which should be connected to the pressure switch near the water pump, you should come to a (two way?) connector in the engine bay, check this one is making contact and the next along the way to the dashboard is a 7 way connector (T7a) engine compartment junction box (pin 7). Check that one to.
Lets see how zinfandel gets on with his wire grounding.
Mike
'Two 'eads is better'n wun even if mine's a sheeps'
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
Grun
Member Number 1250
D reg 2.1 DJ autosleeper poptop
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buzzer of doom
this is the second engine i have fitted in my lifetime,im just wondering if ive got the wires to the senders the wrong way round and should i try swaping them around?thanks for link though,i will use that info at weekend other than that its back to main dealer