Does anyone have experience of getting on Aircooled tinware shot-blasted/powder coated? Like:
1. Is it that much better than a careful paintjob? I'm after effectiveness at rust prevention/longevity rather than looks!
2. How much does it cost - roughly - for the handful of weird shapes?
3. Any experience/recommendations for a powder coating outfit in the NW of England (ideally nearish to Kendal eg Lancaster-Preston) - yell.com comes up with dozens.
Powder coating?
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Powder coating?
Keith
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- crazydiamond
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As with most "finishes" its the pre treatment / derussing thats the important thing. Personally I would derust and degrease and use Hammerite painted on or one of the paints from www.frost.co.uk. It works well on the bits that you cant derust completely, and is very good at preventing further rust. But once rust is into the tinware, it will always rear its ugly head eventually. Powder coatting is good provided a suitable pre-treatment is done such as zinc phosphate dipped. Iron phosphate is not as good at rust prevention, but the powder coat stays on it better.
1982 2 litre Aircooled Devon
1988 2.1 Syncro ex ambulance
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1988 2.1 Syncro ex ambulance
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- Hacksawbob
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http://www.rschrome.co.uk/ how about some electroplating? I think you need to careful with shiney tinware as it reflects some IR heat back at the source, but you dont need a shiney EP finish.. Zinc OLIVE DRAB PASSIVATE anyone, these guys are great they'll chrome anything for you, very helpful too.
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Powder Coating is a good hard coating which even Thinners will struggle to remove.
I have had an Aircooled set done for about £80 in the past but it really depends on who you go to. Some places are cheap, some are ...are you sitting down! type stuff.
If you go this route, you'll need to buy either a set of tapps or thread cleaner set (Halfords etc) to clean out the M6 captive nuts after coming back from coating. Also do any repair work, i.e. straightening, welding before they go off. You'll prob find you need to replace some pieces when you strip it all off as they rust like there's no tomorrow
I'd recomend powder coating over any other form of paint for engine tinwear.
MG
I have had an Aircooled set done for about £80 in the past but it really depends on who you go to. Some places are cheap, some are ...are you sitting down! type stuff.
If you go this route, you'll need to buy either a set of tapps or thread cleaner set (Halfords etc) to clean out the M6 captive nuts after coming back from coating. Also do any repair work, i.e. straightening, welding before they go off. You'll prob find you need to replace some pieces when you strip it all off as they rust like there's no tomorrow
I'd recomend powder coating over any other form of paint for engine tinwear.
MG
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NOT Hammerite
Don't use hammerite it melts with heat and petrol also melts it, can look a real mess quite quickly. Powder coating is cheap enough and will last a long time as long as it doesn't get scratched.For tin ware best just degreasing and applying a quality heat proof paint by aerosol.
Simon
Simon
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im in to motor bikes and t25s and the best rust profing is sand blasting and powder coating and its cheap i get a bike frame / tank / swing arm / brake leaver / wheels done for £50.
the sand blasting takes the metal to bear metal, so no rust then the powder coating is hard and heat resistant.
go to a industrial place as motor bike powder coaters are over priced.
carl
the sand blasting takes the metal to bear metal, so no rust then the powder coating is hard and heat resistant.
go to a industrial place as motor bike powder coaters are over priced.
carl
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