Distributor Help Required

Post by **matT25** » 19 May 2008, 17:32

Hi
I'm having trouble getting my 1980 2 Litre CU camper going.

I've replaced the Ignition Unit and tested the new unit to be good and confirmed the old unit to be bad.

I've tested using two coils which i believe are both good.

I have 12v at the coil terminals.

I used to get an intermittent weak spark but now cannot seem to get anything.

From what i've read it sounds like the hall sender on the distributor, but was wondering what others think before i fork out for a new one. Does anyone live near me in Doncaster who could loan or sell me a distributor to either fix or test it?

I want to go away in it on the weekend so am getting a bit desperate.

Thanks in advance.

Matt

Post by **toomanytoys** » 19 May 2008, 20:44

do you still have the idle stabilisation unit pluged in? Box between coil and amp unit) Unplug the conections from the box and plug them together...

Oh and rotor arm and cap new (ish)?

Post by **matT25** » 19 May 2008, 21:07

Hi Thanks for the reply

I've disconnected the idle stabiliser already, the cap and arm were new last year about 3000 miles ago.

Does anyone know if you can test if the hall sender has gone?

I would like to attach a spark plug to the coil HT lead but my book says i should not, don't know if there is another way to isolate the problem anymore?

Cheers

Matt

Post by **toomanytoys** » 19 May 2008, 21:15

Have you swapped the rotor for another?

Have you plugged the 2 connectors back together from the idle stabiliser?

for a quick check you can put a plug in the coil lead.. that would determine the cap and rotor are ok or not..

Post by **matT25** » 19 May 2008, 21:39

Have you swapped the rotor for another?

No - for the sake of a few quid i;m going to buy a new rotor and cap in the morning

Have you plugged the 2 connectors back together from the idle stabiliser?

No - will try it though in the morning thanks

for a quick check you can put a plug in the coil lead.. that would determine the cap and rotor are ok or not..

Can this be done, my book autostrata or something says not to do this to prevent damage, but i'm sure a vw guy i used last year did that?

Cheers Matt

Post by **toomanytoys** » 19 May 2008, 21:43

engine will not run (as far as I am aware) with the 2 idle plugs left disconnected... try that first........ (They plug into each other) and dont bother trying to replace the idle stabiliser... waste of time

Post by **matT25** » 19 May 2008, 21:49

sorry, i mis read your post, the idle stabiliser unit is disconnected and the two plugs have been joined together already, i thought you meant try again with the idle stabiliser unit engaged.

Post by **matT25** » 20 May 2008, 18:04

UPDATE

/Tested coil HT lead with a plug and it does spark

Still no sparks at any plugs even though i've replaced the rotor arm and distributor cap.

Really annoying me now!

Could it be the spark from the coil is not strong enough to make contact inside the distributor cap?

Could it be the engine earth lead? where is it supposed to be? Do not think its this since i earth the plug at the same part of the engine when testing with the coil ht wire and the plug ht wire.

Help or im going on holiday in a tent!

Post by **matT25** » 21 May 2008, 09:30

Can someone please post the wire colours and order that they go into the hall sender socket on the side of their distributor.
I'm wondering if the order is correct.
Thanks.

Post by **toomanytoys** » 21 May 2008, 09:49

If its sparking at the coil/main lead (nice fat blue spark and plenty of them???), then you have a problem either with the cap rotor or leads.. something is amiss there..
unless you have had the wires out of the plug then why should they be wrong?? was it running before?

Post by **matT25** » 21 May 2008, 09:54

last time it was running was last year, since then i've had the engine in bits after putting a new cylinder head on.
I have been testing the electronic ignition module by earthing the green/white wire and then un earthing it , coil voltage changes from 12v to 6v showing electronic ignition is switching. Whilst doing this test the wires in the harness fell out although i think i replaced them correctly. I'm going mad here, plenty of sparks at coil, no spark at plugs, new rotor arm and cap?

Post by **clartsonly** » 21 May 2008, 09:55

is the LT lead plugged into the cap firmly?

I am not familiar with the Aircooled but did that version have old fashioned points?

Post by **matT25** » 21 May 2008, 09:57

only other thing is the ignition module which i replaced is off a golf i think, but its got the same part number except /1 on the end??

Post by **matT25** » 21 May 2008, 10:02

clartsonly wrote:is the LT lead plugged into the cap firmly?

I am not familiar with the Aircooled but did that version have old fashioned points?

its got electronic ignition, will check leads again, i;m wondering if its spark is exactly when the rotor arm is not in contact with the cap due to the hall sender wires getting mixed up?
Thanks

Post by **matT25** » 21 May 2008, 21:00

WELL WHAT CAN I SAY

I've finally fixed the problem and feel a little silly and very annoyed.

After getting hold of a new dizzy, still did not work, same symptoms, fortunately the guy i bought the dizzy off also had a 2 l Aircooled so i asked to check out is wiring, found out my book is wrong grrr, in its wiring diagram it has two wires green and black going to the negative on the coil when it should only have the green one!! After weeks of messing around trying out different things and sourcing parts it turns out to be one wire!!! i'll not do that again!!