Only 2 cylinders

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 17 Sep 2007, 09:29

I posted a few weeks ago now about the fact that my 1600 ct was only running on 2 cylinders, the left hand bank is not working at all.I have been making most of the dry weather and sorting the body work, but now comes the time to get the engine running properly. From the advice that i was given in my previous posts i have done the obviuos stuff such as check for spark,check plug leads,dizzy cap and there is fuel going in. I wondered if maybe the heads are not unleaded would this be a cause as it may have burnt out the valves?
It also makes a loud whistling/screaming noise from the side that is not firing,I thought at first something had got stuck in the fan but its deffinatly coming from the left hand bank.
Again all assistance and advice welcome.

Post by **HarryMann** » 17 Sep 2007, 10:07

Quite possible the valve seats have gone, or the gasket. You have only one option - take the cylinder compressions across the engine, will reveal all.. Detailed in Wiki

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 18 Sep 2007, 08:46

Compression test done, results as follows.

No.1 cyl =150psi
No.2 cyl =150psi
No.3 cyl =130psi
No.4 cyl =115psi

Just need to work out whats making 3 &4 run at lower compression?

Post by **VWCamperfan** » 18 Sep 2007, 08:50

Are all cylinder head bolts correctly tightened? Could cause the whistling as well if not.

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 18 Sep 2007, 08:55

I did have a quick check,well of the ones i could get to with the rockers removed and all seemed to be very tight, i didn`t want to over tighten as the thought of having to re-seat head bolts hhhhuuuhhhhhh!!. There does not seem to be much play in the rockers, should there be?

Post by **VWCamperfan** » 18 Sep 2007, 09:14

Shouldnt be any play in the rockers if you have hydraulic tappets.
Set each cylinder on that side to top deat centre (I use the position of the distributor rotor arm to help with this one) and check clearances on both rockers for the cylinder at TDC. If there is play (and you have hydraulic tappets) adjust so that the screws are just touching, then give another turn in. Do this on both cylinders and should be adjusted fine then.

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 18 Sep 2007, 09:43

So with the rockers set correctly, what do i check next, should the heads have been converted to unleaded or does it not matter, i have no problem taking the engine out is that the next step?

Post by **ermie571** » 18 Sep 2007, 10:16

Danny-boy - perhaps you could try phoning elite motors in Essex - they are very helpful, and may be able to point you to other checks/repairs that need to be done....

see here: elitevw.com

Lots of members have used them for complete engine change (including us).

Emma

Post by **VWCamperfan** » 18 Sep 2007, 11:11

A-ha, low pressure!
If you're ok with taking engine out then I would have a look. Its fairly easy, just be sure to make a note of how the tinware comes off and in which order otherwise you got a jigsaw puzzle!
Could very easily just be a case of re-grinding the valves.
Shouldnt have too much of a problem with running unleaded. The valve seats have hardened over the years of constant pounding and shouldn't have been affected. I drove mine around for years on unleaded without any problems and it kept a constant pressure without any visable damage or problems.

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 18 Sep 2007, 22:19

Re-grinding the valves,mmm never done it but am willing to give it a go, so whats involved? Grinding paste i assume,is it just a case of removing deposits and making a flush fit with the valve? Sorry for sounding like i`ve never done it before but i`ve never done it before.

Post by **VWCamperfan** » 18 Sep 2007, 22:47

Yep, grinding paste and a stick with suckers on each end, most motoring shops will sell these as a kit. Only problem you may have is removing the valve springs. You have to compress the spring and remove a collet from the top of the valve stem. It's in 2 halves and once the spring is compressed they come off quite easily. Once springs are removed on all valves, slide a valve out slightly and apply a few small dobs of course grinding paste to the valve seating. Re-seat valve and apply the sucker thing to the underside of the valve, should stick ok if valve is cleanish. Then turn stick in a clockwise/anti-clockwise motion (a bit like lighting a fire by spinning a stick between your hands!) Alternatively you can remove one sucker and poke the stick into a drill, makes things a LOT quicker!
Lift valve every now and again and check to see how seating is looking. Should be even without pitting. When this stage is reached, clean valve and seating and repeat with fine grinding paste.
The grinding paste tubs are in 2 halves, coarse in one half and fine in other.

Have fun!

Post by **HarryMann** » 19 Sep 2007, 19:29

Alternatively you can remove one sucker and poke the stick into a drill, makes things a LOT quicker

Stick to the manual method. a better result without ovality, spin back and forth between palms of hand a few times, lift up rotate 1/3 trun drop down and repeat. Then every now and again wipe grinding paste back across valve face, repeat. then again every now and again, clean paste off of valve face and seat, re-apply repeat, to get it cuttinga gain well.

Do NOT get grinding paste on valve stem or in the valve guides...

If valve face is not clean and bright then sucker might not adhere... so to start with take all valves out, keep them in the right order (push stems through a bit of cardboard, labelled up), clean faces up in a lathe if you have one, or a mouted drill, and also remove excessive carbon from stem area, staying a way from the stem's guide area.

NB. Do NOT get grinding paste anywhere near valve stem/guide area.

Looking for a nice matt grey and even finish on both valve and head seats. Once that's achieved don't keep at it and pocket them (which woud take a lot of grinding!)

PS. Ther are other reaosns for low cyl pressures of course... could well have done its rings in, but once head is off and you look at valves. ecp. echaust valves you'll then know if that's the reason

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 19 Sep 2007, 23:00

Yeah not sure what i`m going to get when the engine comes this weekend , will just have to wait and see, the engine has only go 55000 original miles on it soshould be worth the repair.

Post by **Danny-Boy** » 22 Sep 2007, 21:51

Well the engine is out and the left hand head is off,fortunatly my brother came round he has had plenty of flat 4 experience. The head is split in both cylinders so looks like i will have to get a new one. Having done a bit research on line, GSF would appear to sell them however they have 2 listed one is at a respectable £87.50 the other is at £154.00 they have the same part number except the latter has an "A" after the part number, Any ideas? also need to get a heat exchanger for that side its a CT engine does this mean that the bay window one will fit?

Post by **andysimpson** » 22 Sep 2007, 22:01

Danny-Boy wrote:Well the engine is out and the left hand head is off,fortunatly my brother came round he has had plenty of flat 4 experience. The head is split in both cylinders so looks like i will have to get a new one. Having done a bit research on line, GSF would appear to sell them however they have 2 listed one is at a respectable £87.50 the other is at £154.00 they have the same part number except the latter has an "A" after the part number, Any ideas? also need to get a heat exchanger for that side its a CT engine does this mean that the bay window one will fit?

Where is the crack, if its between valves don't assume there scrap, if the crack is between valve and sparg plug then there scrap. Reproduction heads are best avoided if possible due to very poor quality.