Here are the pics of the engine.
Does this look familiar to anyone.
I cant find an engine number anywhere obvious but it is dark and I am using a torch.
I will visit the exaust shop down the road and see if they are brave enough to make an exaust system for her.
Dont know if anyone else has tried to fabricate a 4 into 1 manifold on one of these before, but I am sure someone has on a Golf GTI. To be honest, it doesnt look all that tight under there and I sure the engine would benifit from getting rid of the small bore pipe from the manifold and the long silencer across the back. I just want to make sure she doesnt get too loud as my 2 year lad sleeps on most journeys and it is heaven until he wakes up.
Any other suggestions on how to make this engine a little more "torquey " on lower revvs. Are there any good cams out there or would it be a waste of money ?
Camming it would be a waste I think as they tend to move the power up the rev range. Putting the 2.0 bottom end on from a MKIII will improve it lots BUT it's a) lots of hassle and b) it might casuse clearance problems as the block is a little taler than the 1.8.
Have a look on www.golfgti.co.uk for tuning for these engines and 4 branch manifold ideas. They're a sound bunch and know their onions!
It's a K-Jet all right, look at the rectangular alloy lump behind/above the engine.
The only question I have is that the Scirocco 1.8i K-Jet has an oil cooler built into the oil filter head .... this seems not to have ? .... Is this part of the conversion i.e. to get rid of another long hose by swapping the oil filter head, OR does the Golf 1.8i K-Jet not need the oil cooler head ? ... I noticed Matt & Torzs' 1.8 carb Syncro doesn't have it and neither does the 1.8 carb Scirocco engine that's waiting to go in The Bus.
Ian.
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
The GTI boys have come up with some good ideas. They reckon re-bore the 1.8 block to 1.9 and flow the head should make a significant increase in torque so that is one option.
Forget the 2.0 block, you'll have interference problems inlet mani against the n/s chassis rail amongst others..
If its going quite well, I'd service it and leave well alone, the injection can play up, the cold start enrichening thingammy on the block (steel block that fuel goes through before distribution head) can play up I'm told and when they do they become a pain...
The main thing is that whatever fuel pump is fitted doesn't sound like its about go into orbit, or overheat in the summer... find out what pump it is and get a spare if you see one going in a scrappy!
Just rev it, maybe make a better exhaust and leave it at that would be my advice (from some experience of a very bad K-Jet conversion)
Hi Harry,
Looks like the injection pump and relay are off an old Ford, possibly a Granada or early XR3i. Someone has even gone to the trouble to fit the inertia cut off switch in the event of an accident it will cut the pump and the reset is very accessable.
Just trying to work out which fuel filter is fitted at the moment.
Why was your K Jet conversion such a bad experience ?
Those Gti fuel pumps just don't seem to transfer, or need hooking up in a special way, or maybe the ones I've heard of were all on syncros with a low tank outlet. They get hot in summer and buzz and destroy themselves ( I think)
2 liter block, 1800 head and the wrong distributor or something like that... it's a lomg story, wasn't mine anyway, think the injection system was off one type of Gti and distributor off another.
etc. etc.
With K-jet I think you will have to make sure the injectors don't dribble too much, they'e not very sophisticated and if you get cold-start or idle problems, suspect that fuel-enrichment device bolted to the block.
If you need to adjust the basic mixture setting there is a hex screw buried between the distributor head and the MAF unit... impossible to see but straight down betwen the two.. you can get a special long T-handled hex key to adjust it (very long key).
Get the gearing right in top and it should pull the beast OK, sounds like the gearing is in fact about spot-on from your descriptions. So a decent exhaust, of the correct length will enhance bottom end power, too short and it will detract from cylinder filling at low rpm (at a guess)...
If it's a Ford pump with the inertia safety switch then it's off the 2.0 EFI DOHC engine as fitted in injection Sierra's 1987>94 and Granadas of the same vintage.
These switches were very sensitive at first and the slightest knock in a car park or big pothole would disable the vehicle, much to the amusement of the AA/RAC et al. Might be a wise move to rid the switch if it causes hassle ?
If you go hunting for a spare the inertia switch it's in the spare wheel well in the boot (if it hasn't rotted and dropped out) or inside the n/s/r wall of the boot on hatchbacks. IIRC the pump's on a rusty bracket next to the tank and fuel filter canister.
Ian.
The Hulley's Bus 1989 2.1DJ Trampspotter LPG courtesy of Steve @ Gasure
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