air-cooled heating
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air-cooled heating
I've got no (absolutely no) hot air coming into the cabin. I'm hoping to take the van to Iceland this summer (through to October), so warmth is something of a priority at the moment.
I've had a look under the van and the control valve on the left side is definitely buggered, and I think the flexi-pipes are missing on both sides. I'm not sure if the cables are attached... what do the control cables actually attach to?
Where can I get the flexi pipes? Only VW heritage seem to have any and they're for type 1s... would these be ok? GSF seems to be cheapest for the control valves. Do I need to replace anything else?
Thanks, Ed
I've had a look under the van and the control valve on the left side is definitely buggered, and I think the flexi-pipes are missing on both sides. I'm not sure if the cables are attached... what do the control cables actually attach to?
Where can I get the flexi pipes? Only VW heritage seem to have any and they're for type 1s... would these be ok? GSF seems to be cheapest for the control valves. Do I need to replace anything else?
Thanks, Ed
Last edited by edmundator on 27 May 2007, 17:00, edited 1 time in total.
1:43 Caravelle
hi m8
i did away with the control pods on mine and the steel up pipes. i just put eberspacher type hot air ducting straight off the exchangers and into the corrugated rubber hoses each side. i then blocked the fresh air intake behind the grill with duck tape and hey presto, toastie warm for about 15 quid.
the cables go to a lever on the pods to make them either draw hot air over the exchangers or fresh air from under the van. tie them fully open if they aren't rotten and just use ducting to the corrugated hoses if they've had it.
t3lee uses a propex air heater to warm his which is gas powered and much better than the original set up.
i did away with the control pods on mine and the steel up pipes. i just put eberspacher type hot air ducting straight off the exchangers and into the corrugated rubber hoses each side. i then blocked the fresh air intake behind the grill with duck tape and hey presto, toastie warm for about 15 quid.
the cables go to a lever on the pods to make them either draw hot air over the exchangers or fresh air from under the van. tie them fully open if they aren't rotten and just use ducting to the corrugated hoses if they've had it.
t3lee uses a propex air heater to warm his which is gas powered and much better than the original set up.
LT owner and positively rattling around with the new found space
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try cj (syncrospares) or volksheaven for the missing parts.Its best to replace the system as vw designed it!! i too have replaced the heating set up on my 2000 Aircooled, pods + elbows were shot. Once changed the heat is wicked, absolutly roasting. My heater cables are shot so as a temp measure i have wired the pods open for full heat. this would nt be a problem for you either as its gonna be chilly where your off to!!!the type 1 flexis wont work. bodging it up with flexi metal pipe will work but the genuine ones are insulated so you loose less heat. I have also fitted a propex heater which is a wicked bit of kit and certainly reccomended but it most certainly will not blow warm air on your windscreen which your gonna need in iceland!!! get the stock system up to scratch and you wont be sorry.
good luck chap!!
good luck chap!!
unless you mount it behind the grill and couple it into the airbox as lee has.jason k wrote:I have also fitted a propex heater which is a wicked bit of kit and certainly reccomended but it most certainly will not blow warm air on your windscreen which your gonna need in iceland!!!

LT owner and positively rattling around with the new found space
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Thanks for the advice. JK don't seem to have anything other than the risers and pods at the moment. I'll see if I can find the insulated pipes somewhere else.
I've got a gas-powered heater of some description (it's a red metal cuboid and there's a thermostat on the wall) but I've not been brave enough to use it as I don't want to poison myself with CO. I wouldn't be that keen to use it while driving either and since it's under the back seat I don't know how effective it would be at heating the cab.
Must try to get everything sorted out before the end of July.
During summer months the ferry from Norway/Denmark stops at Scrabster (near Thurso) then in the Faroe Islands before arriving at Seyðisfjørður on the Eastern coast of Iceland. By the time I'm coming back in October it doesn't stop in Scotland any more, so I'm going to have to get off in Denmark and drive round to Calais (there are ferries from Denmark to the UK, but I'd have to wait about a week). How much it costs depends on when you go and what sort of accommodation you want on the ferry. I'm leaving at the end of July and returning in the middle of October and paying about £560 return. www.smyril-line.com is the place to have a gander if you're interested.
I've got a gas-powered heater of some description (it's a red metal cuboid and there's a thermostat on the wall) but I've not been brave enough to use it as I don't want to poison myself with CO. I wouldn't be that keen to use it while driving either and since it's under the back seat I don't know how effective it would be at heating the cab.
Must try to get everything sorted out before the end of July.
stuckin88 wrote:how do you get your van to Iceland?--is there a ro-ro ferry from somewhere?--not cheap, I imagine--
During summer months the ferry from Norway/Denmark stops at Scrabster (near Thurso) then in the Faroe Islands before arriving at Seyðisfjørður on the Eastern coast of Iceland. By the time I'm coming back in October it doesn't stop in Scotland any more, so I'm going to have to get off in Denmark and drive round to Calais (there are ferries from Denmark to the UK, but I'd have to wait about a week). How much it costs depends on when you go and what sort of accommodation you want on the ferry. I'm leaving at the end of July and returning in the middle of October and paying about £560 return. www.smyril-line.com is the place to have a gander if you're interested.
1:43 Caravelle
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yeh thats a propex you've got and its perfectly safe as the combustion inlet and exhaust are both outside the van.(underneath usually)
so give it a go and you'll see why the previous owner didn't bother with the original heater pipes,,, YOU WONT NEED EM
so give it a go and you'll see why the previous owner didn't bother with the original heater pipes,,, YOU WONT NEED EM

LT owner and positively rattling around with the new found space
member 3339
member 3339