ok I may be on a hiding to nothing from the smut brigade with that title but I am in the process of fighting the rust dragon in all the usual places. I am presently armed with rust cure gel, rust inhibiting primer, wet and dry paper, and a matching tin of paint. oh and a nice brush. any top tips?
this is a question i cant find on tech Q'n'A's maybe someone could direct me to the rust slaying god?
touching up rusty seams
Moderators: User administrators, Moderators
-
boatlesspaul
- Registered user
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 03 Nov 2006, 12:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 2125
- Location: Leeds
- Contact:
-
Grumpy Midget
Okay you wont get a hinding from me and I dont belong to the smut brigade???????
First, your never going to be able to eradicate rust, but you can delay its appearance, Mask out the seams your going to prepare with 2" masking tape,to prevent damage to surrounding painted area, keep it local sand blast seam with fine nozle grit gun(very fine graphite) or a course sanding paper grade 120 wet/dry dust out with a brush, strip off masking tape that will have been damaged with preperation, Re/apply fresh masking tape to seams, apply your rust inhibiting gell, and refer to the instructions that apply to the use of the gell, (myself I would use a automotive rust inhibiting acid it penetrates better into the metal, on contact with rust it turns black in colour, Leave for 30mins and wash off with cold water, some specs on acid say use hot water, therefore always red the label) Blow dry wet area with either compressed air or heat gun ( Hair dryer will suffice). Do not sand or abrade after rust treatment there is a sealed film on the metal substrate after treatment, apply a build up of primer paint, when dry apply an automotive seam sealent down the seam joint, smooth with finger, before sealant drys remove masking tape and gently re/smooth edges of sealant to body panel, leave to cure (dry) Remask area to seams again then paint with your likle brush in your desired colour or spray with airosol, flatten back painted edge with a cutting compound. as I said you cannot cure but can delay its apperence if any Mods wana put this in the wicki then you have my permission, Ex Co Employee Member of the SAAB 100 Club for paint spraying & refinnishing
First, your never going to be able to eradicate rust, but you can delay its appearance, Mask out the seams your going to prepare with 2" masking tape,to prevent damage to surrounding painted area, keep it local sand blast seam with fine nozle grit gun(very fine graphite) or a course sanding paper grade 120 wet/dry dust out with a brush, strip off masking tape that will have been damaged with preperation, Re/apply fresh masking tape to seams, apply your rust inhibiting gell, and refer to the instructions that apply to the use of the gell, (myself I would use a automotive rust inhibiting acid it penetrates better into the metal, on contact with rust it turns black in colour, Leave for 30mins and wash off with cold water, some specs on acid say use hot water, therefore always red the label) Blow dry wet area with either compressed air or heat gun ( Hair dryer will suffice). Do not sand or abrade after rust treatment there is a sealed film on the metal substrate after treatment, apply a build up of primer paint, when dry apply an automotive seam sealent down the seam joint, smooth with finger, before sealant drys remove masking tape and gently re/smooth edges of sealant to body panel, leave to cure (dry) Remask area to seams again then paint with your likle brush in your desired colour or spray with airosol, flatten back painted edge with a cutting compound. as I said you cannot cure but can delay its apperence if any Mods wana put this in the wicki then you have my permission, Ex Co Employee Member of the SAAB 100 Club for paint spraying & refinnishing
-
SplendiferousII
- Registered user
- Posts: 178
- Joined: 01 Aug 2006, 08:09
- 80-90 Mem No: 2893
- Location: Membership No 2893 Cornwall / Gloucestershire
No matter what it says on the tin. Nothing kills rust !! The one and only way to remove rust is friction and bring it back to shinny new metal - there is no short cut.
Get hold of a dremmil (or a cheap B&Q clone - mains powered is best) and the cutting disks that go with it.
Go crazy for a few hours / days and grind it out.
If your seems are really bad then you will need to use a angle grinder to start with, use the very thin (1mm) metal cutting disks. These will get right down between the seems.
Good luck - your van will look much worse before it gets better.
Think I have a pic somewhere on this PC with mine - work in progress.
Get hold of a dremmil (or a cheap B&Q clone - mains powered is best) and the cutting disks that go with it.
Go crazy for a few hours / days and grind it out.
If your seems are really bad then you will need to use a angle grinder to start with, use the very thin (1mm) metal cutting disks. These will get right down between the seems.
Good luck - your van will look much worse before it gets better.
Think I have a pic somewhere on this PC with mine - work in progress.
-
Horney
- Registered user
- Posts: 208
- Joined: 03 Apr 2006, 17:31
- 80-90 Mem No: 0
- Location: Basingstoke, Hampshire, UK.
I need to do mine. The passenger side rear one has holed in the wheel arch. I cleaned it all up slapped on some fibre glass and then undersealed it all. It's only a temp repair for the summer. Come september I'll strip it all back and try and get in there with the welder and weld in a patch.
Nick
Nick
[IMG:699:99]http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y115/H ... nature.jpg[/img]
try here http://www.frost.co.uk/ they sell everything you are likely to need....
Where can you get the gell
2.1 LPG/Petrol Auto Caravelle
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits"
"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits"
-
Hacksawbob
- Registered user
- Posts: 4443
- Joined: 11 Oct 2005, 07:11
- 80-90 Mem No: 1168
- Location: Lancs UK member 1168
-
thegamwellsmythes
- Registered user
- Posts: 325
- Joined: 27 Feb 2006, 16:15
- 80-90 Mem No: 3845
- Location: Chester
-
boatlesspaul
- Registered user
- Posts: 6
- Joined: 03 Nov 2006, 12:37
- 80-90 Mem No: 2125
- Location: Leeds
- Contact:
rusty seams rises again
thanks for the info grumps et al.
yes your right i just want to delay the inevitable rise again of the rust monster. that all makes sense. sand blasting is out but i have grinder and twisted wire attatchment. tried seems ok.
I had my suspicions about the gell , I have prefered the milky rust cure in the past.
so I t- cut to try to match old paint to new? interesting.
Ahem"hyperthetically" what do i do if i've accidently sanded a panel bit? t - cut again? or higher grade paper?
its a big van high top when i T-cut do i do all the van and if i do, anyone recommend a cheap polisher cos my arms ache already!
I am amazed at the speed ,quality. and quantity of the response .
thanks boatless
yes your right i just want to delay the inevitable rise again of the rust monster. that all makes sense. sand blasting is out but i have grinder and twisted wire attatchment. tried seems ok.
I had my suspicions about the gell , I have prefered the milky rust cure in the past.
so I t- cut to try to match old paint to new? interesting.
Ahem"hyperthetically" what do i do if i've accidently sanded a panel bit? t - cut again? or higher grade paper?
its a big van high top when i T-cut do i do all the van and if i do, anyone recommend a cheap polisher cos my arms ache already!
I am amazed at the speed ,quality. and quantity of the response .
thanks boatless