General Technical Questions and Answers last answered over 1 year ago.
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Hi all. I've browsed the wiki before posting here (so please don't tell me off ).
I've got a 1988 1.9 DG and I think I've got carb problems.
Runs fine when cold but as soon as it gets warm it stalls constantly and if I leave my foot on the accelerator it revs very roughly (coughin' and a splutterin' like a bugga). Rev the engine, raise the clutch (in gear) and watch those revs die!!
Anyway, I'm presuming (dangerous I know) I have a Pierburg 2E3, so can anyone tell me where I can find the serial number or equivalent so i can give the good people at Gower and Lee a call.
OK I was just asking the obvious really. that being the case starvation/weak mix is the next obvious and by the sound of it, you've been down that road too.
Ha, Ha,,,,,,,,,,,,Sounds like you may have the age old problem of having XS shyte in the float bowl of your carb. This shyte can be anything from particles of discharged fuel filter and /or even water droplets.
There are a few things to check before getting involved removing the carburettor for that thorough clean/blow through.
1, check small connector hoses on each breather tank under each wheel arch (front) if these are split (like mine were) they will drive you insane with all sorts of water/rubbish being sucked into the tank and the fuel system.
2, change the fuel filter on the fuel line (if there is more than one then the last guy must have had the same problem as you in the past).
3,Before you remove the carb check to see if the 'Pull down' diaphragm (the black cylindrical thing) fitted near the top of the carb is working properly.
Simply take off the vacuum pipe (off the carb end) give it a suck,,,,if the diaphragm is buggered the actuator lever will not hold in the required 'open' position. (If it doesn't you'll need a new one)
4, And finally take off the Carburettor and before you tip it up side down check the float bowl for evidence of shyte/water and be very careful when cleaning out all orifices with either carb cleaner and or an air line.
Once the carb is back on the van and you have had everything re set ( Mixture ) to what it should be give it a run to see how it feels.
After the run re check the new fuel filter, if it is once again starting to fill with water and other bits of shyte the tank may have to be removed to clean it out, along with the carb if it is still running like a sack of shyte.
Regards
Fritz,,,,,,,,,,,
One day you will find me,,
Driving in my Camper,
With a Surf and Paisley wrap on both sides....
Stripping the carb down is pretty easy, you don't need to touch any of the settings, just take the two halves of the carb apart and give it a very thorough clean. If you feel more brave say so and I'll post the ins and outs, for me getting the carb off the manifold is the worst bit and that isn't too bad really.
skell wrote:Stripping the carb down is pretty easy, you don't need to touch any of the settings, just take the two halves of the carb apart and give it a very thorough clean. If you feel more brave say so and I'll post the ins and outs, for me getting the carb off the manifold is the worst bit and that isn't too bad really.
Cheers. That'd be great if you could.
I replaced my starter motor using some destructions off here. Better than Haynes.
I had exactly the same problem two weeks ago and posted a thread on here and got it sorted.
With mine eventually I found the carb had loads of muck in it. I took the carb off and split it into its two halves and cleaned it out with carb cleaner. When I re fitted I forgot to connect the terminal on the front of the carb ( I thinks its called the idle air shut off valve ?) this alone made it run even worse. Conected it back up and off she went
Gower & lee dont want to know about 2e3s for T25s--got a very short answer when I phoned 'em--get a gasket set from GSF--yool only need the big one & clean out float bowl--
stuckin88 wrote:Gower & lee dont want to know about 2e3s for T25s--got a very short answer when I phoned 'em--get a gasket set from GSF--yool only need the big one & clean out float bowl--
They don't say that on their website.
If they get snotty when I speak to 'em I'll ask them to make it clear on their site.
Oh, and I've got a Haynes, but if anyone's got a numpty carb removal sheet handy I'd be very grateful.
As said, most likely a blocked jet from lots of crud..
but could also be the "stop" valve not opperating correctly..
Carb is not a hard job to do and the Haynes does tell it quite well, just make sure you get a gasket kit BEFORE you take the top off and take your time, dont try and start doing it at 4pm and need to use the van at 5...
1) remove air inlet elbow
2) disconnect wires to carb (remembering which is which, label with masking tape), iirc there are three, shut off valve, carb body heater and choke heater
3) score a line across where the auto choke body is attached to the carb. might already be marked, mine was. The auto choke body (not sure if this is the correct term for it), is the bit that has coolant hoses connected. Remove the three screws that hold the autochoke body to the carb, I usually hold the one at the back with long nose pliers once its out a bit to avoid dropping it. Pull housing gently away from carb, inside there is a bi-metal coil that moves the choke.
4) remove fuel feed and return from carb and plug ends with suitable sized bolts (m8 iirc), I usually string them up out of the way.
5) undo (or just loosen a bit) the two bolts holding the bracket near accelerator cable to the inlet manifold
6) remove the two vacuum pipes at the front (front of van) bottom of the carb.
7) undo the three nuts on top of carb that hold carb to manifold and ease the carb upwards and clear of the studs that go through it.
Now retreat to somewhere warm and dry to take the carb apart.
First clean the outside (I use wynn's carb cleaner, it makes a lovely crackling sound when it lands on crap on the carb)
1) Undo the five cross head screws on the top of the carb and take them out, I think they may be different lengths so lay them out somewhere so you know which goes where.
2) pull the top and bottom of the carb apart gently, away from your eyes as you might splash fuel out of the float chamber.
3) tip fuel out of float bowl into a jam jar or similar
4) discard gasket from between the two halves
5)) you can now clean up, if you can get a can of compressed air or have an airline you can blow through the jets, I have managed just squirting Wynn's carb cleaner throught and making sure they have dried out.
6) try and find all the passages through the carb body, if you see a hole squirt cleaner in it - I missed the one that leads to the vacuum pipe for the second throttle first time I did it, after cleaning this the van goes much quicker
7) where the fuel feed line fits onto carb there is a little filter inside the metal tube, you can ease this out with a pin in the plastic end of it, but be careful not to poke through the filter, its like a very tall cone with a plastic ring round the base, flush it out if it has crap in it. this bit doesn't come in the rebuild kit so be careful....
7) when you think it is clean enough to eat your dinner off put it back together in true haynes style - refitting is the reverse of removal.
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