should i get 15/ 16 inch wheels for transpanted 1.9 diesel?

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vdub
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tyres & wheels

Post by vdub »

harryman/mac william youll have to bear with a lay person on this, at the momment im understanding that its prob best to get 15 inch with 195/80 tyres for around 6-8% increase in gear performance would u agree?
chill out and slow down, whos pocket do yer think yer filling anyway.

bliss is cruising in my vdub down the motorway, watching all the sheep go flying by.

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Post by Simon Baxter »

Theres no need to modify the brakes when fitting a 1.9TD (AAZ) as it's only 5 bhp more than the 1.6TD (JX).
VW sent the vans out with upto 112bhp from the 2.1l Petrol with the same brakes.
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MacWilliam
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Post by MacWilliam »

Simon Baxter wrote:Theres no need to modify the brakes when fitting a 1.9TD (AAZ) as it's only 5 bhp more than the 1.6TD (JX).
VW sent the vans out with upto 112bhp from the 2.1l Petrol with the same brakes.

Having swapped for an aaz i dont see any need for brake improvement either. The speed is the same, you just get there a bit quicker.

Total cost of swaping TD engines was £500.00 incl oil, coolant, etc for the parts. No labour since i did myself.

vduD . when i do find 15" wheels i'll try 185/80/15 to start with. It seems on my van that i am almost where I want to be. A slight difference is all i am after. I dont want to end up dropping in fourth again on inclines on motorways.

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1.9 transplant

Post by jeepster »

Cheers for replying and im glad to here there is a notable difference! ive got 1.6D(50bhp) at the moment, and the 1.9D(1y) is 64bhp nearly as much as 1.6TD(67bhp) and as you have said their is no turbo etc to worry about breaking.
The engine cost me 400quid complete with car, genuine 32K and i have the option of converting to power steering in the future, so i will get under way with the swap soon.

Ive got a 5speed box in mine, what do you have?

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jeepster

Post by vdub »

i got a 4 speed, but again its down to personal choice. i was going to go with a 5 speed from a 1985 1.6diesel van i had but i really didnt like it it was awkward to use compared with the 4 speed in my 1.7diesel. i also asked on club 80-90 and came up with the conclusion to stay with the 4 speed based on choice and that some t3 drivers reckoned the 4 speed was a stronger box overall. the other factor was that the 1st and 2 nd were so close in that i didnt really need to use the 1st on the 5 speed. but then it may be differant with a 1.9 diesel in.

simon and macwilliam i take ure pont re brakes when u quote the bhp factor, maybe its beacuase one of my drums is a bit warped and the brakes are not as good as prob could be. though this transplant engine is a lot more powerful in the lower gears than the 1.7diesel was, it pulls like a petrol, it was out of a t4 and is a 1x engine dont know what the bhp is, do any of you?

regards the wheels and tyres im gonna settle for 15" with 195/80 on rear and 195/65 on front this way wont have to alter the speedo. my brother is manager at kwik fit and been working there donkeys he reckons this is the best option or getting the 195/70 as there were made for transporters and are easy to get, and he said something about sticking with r rating as they are more econimical than the h rating ones from landrovers etc, also mentioned abot watching for the ply making sure the tyres are 6 ply not 4.
chill out and slow down, whos pocket do yer think yer filling anyway.

bliss is cruising in my vdub down the motorway, watching all the sheep go flying by.

vdub
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bhp

Post by vdub »

Simon Baxter wrote:Theres no need to modify the brakes when fitting a 1.9TD (AAZ) as it's only 5 bhp more than the 1.6TD (JX).
VW sent the vans out with upto 112bhp from the 2.1l Petrol with the same brakes.

but what if u had a straight 1.6/7 diesel to a 1.9turbo the 1.6td must be higher bhp than the straight 1.6/7?

again i suppose if vw sent out vans with 112bhp with same braking system it wouldnt matter between 1.6/7 to 1.9 turbo. but then we are talking about new vans not vans that have worn,ish braking systems. :!:
chill out and slow down, whos pocket do yer think yer filling anyway.

bliss is cruising in my vdub down the motorway, watching all the sheep go flying by.

vdub
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Post by vdub »

macwilliam

im impessed that it only cost u £500 and that u did it ureself. i was attempting to do it myself but had very constricted time as was moving at the same time, if i did do it myself it would have saved me £320 so around the £500 mark as well.

did u have to alter the left hand bottem engine mount arm, and alter the engine lid, and what about the manifold did u ude the original one, and what about the throttle cable did u have to alter the top of the diesel pump at all? :?:
chill out and slow down, whos pocket do yer think yer filling anyway.

bliss is cruising in my vdub down the motorway, watching all the sheep go flying by.

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Post by HarryMann »

but what if u had a straight 1.6/7 diesel to a 1.9turbo the 1.6td must be higher bhp than the straight 1.6/7?

Braking is not really about installed power, it's entirely down to what weight and what speed you are doing when you need them badly.

The syncro discs are a piece of proverbial p!zz to fit and are cheap (if you source them right, now discontinued from GSF - but mine were £12-50 ea - now Eurpoarts or ask Aidan (Beaker))
2WD I only know they're more hassle with the bearing housing in them, ask Simon for best source.

So sort the fronts and use good pads - but the rears make a tremendous difference. Most T25s now have knackered rears, or rears not doing the job 100%.
Get them sorted properly and up to 80 or so, they'll stop you OK.

I find its the pedal position thats the big problem, getting on them quickly enough with that daft VW accelerator/ brake pedal height relationship -every second delay is another 40 yards travelled at 80 mph.
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MacWilliam
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Post by MacWilliam »

vdub wrote:macwilliam

im impessed that it only cost u £500 and that u did it ureself. i was attempting to do it myself but had very constricted time as was moving at the same time, if i did do it myself it would have saved me £320 so around the £500 mark as well.

did u have to alter the left hand bottem engine mount arm, and alter the engine lid, and what about the manifold did u ude the original one, and what about the throttle cable did u have to alter the top of the diesel pump at all? :?:

Most of the details are there:http://www.club80-90.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=149

Did not modify mounting arm since i used jx manifolds and fitted the accelerator "arm " of the jx on to the aaz pump. Hacked off bits of the cable stop on the jx pump and manufactured a new one much lower. Trial and error. Needs tidying up but it works a treat.



Engine still doesnt eat any oil after a 1000 miles so i take it is really a 83 000 miles old engine ( the scrappie told me)
I paid £150.00 + vat something like £175.00 for the engine
+ £146.00 for a new clutch and spigot bearing, and timing belt+tensioner from gsf
+ £105.00 at the local garage who welcomed me to to the work over the pit. the money was for coolants, power stiring liquid, some seals and small parts ordered from vw. I left the van there 3 weeks working on and off and giving a hand to pay for the "B&B" as a go for. I have no work at the mo. so instead of getting depressed in a corner we had garanteed laugh every day! The biggest mistake i made is leaving the the bell housing to be receive attention at the last minute. Result: when the engine got ready to go back in, i pulled the van back from the pit, and proceeded without any further thoughts. That evening i found i'd forgoten to swap the clutch pressure bearing :oops: . Well the old one will have to do...
I know this only amounts to £400.00 but i am pretty sure some more money got gulped in sundries, diesel, wasted journeys etc....

Would i do it again! Absolutely. Great fun.

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HarryMann
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Post by HarryMann »

Well, there's a great club story in the making - but not sure we have village garages quite so tame and friendly darn saaf. What a result for £400!
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Post by Russel »

If u are after the wright 15 inch rims for the job give us a call.We sell straight bolt on 15's at the right load rating 950kg each(not like the merc rims wich are not desighned for anything as heavey as a transporter)
These rims cost £43.50 each plus £1.50 per wheel nut.And for the 2WD's we sell the front stud conversions for £9.50 a side plus postage on all items.

vdub
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brakes & wheels

Post by vdub »

harryman thats really helpful regards the brakes i will have to look into replacing my rears soon. thanx

russel what wheels is it that u have, what would the total cost be for five for a 2wd? do u say that all merc rims dont have eneogh load bearing on them?

that engine u send me works a treat, it roars like a lion in my t3 :lol:
chill out and slow down, whos pocket do yer think yer filling anyway.

bliss is cruising in my vdub down the motorway, watching all the sheep go flying by.

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Post by MacWilliam »

Russel at Syncro-Nutz wrote:If u are after the wright 15 inch rims for the job give us a call.We sell straight bolt on 15's at the right load rating 950kg each(not like the merc rims wich are not desighned for anything as heavey as a transporter)
These rims cost £43.50 each plus £1.50 per wheel nut.And for the 2WD's we sell the front stud conversions for £9.50 a side plus postage on all items.
Going south in two weeks and will stop to have a look at wheels. Give us your address russell and time at which I can turn up . Any chance of a description or pic of the wheels.

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Post by MacWilliam »

:oops: :oops: Just noticed your address in your post :oops: Shotts. Got some tution a long time ago from R.Mathieson Pipe major of Shotts and Dykehead....But thats another story :D

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Post by Russel »

I will email some pics to someone who can put them up soon.
For 5 rims it is £217.50 +wheel nuts times 20 is £30 +front studs at £19
is a total of £266.50 plus postage(this depends were u are)

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