Thermostat housings - Now available from VW Classic Parts

[kevtherev]

the syncro housing is syncro spercific, it's metle and the sencor for the ECU is a screw (bolt) in type where on a 2wd it is push in type held in with a clip. i have a spair syncro sencor if that would help. in order to make it universal the input from the oil cooler on a 2.1 will have to have some sort of cap on it for use on the 1.9 that can be removed for use on a 2.1.

I fitted a metal housing to a transplanted 2.1, the plastic sensors were junked from my old 1.9.
Fairly easy job to get the temp sensor down to one wire (just snip off the earth) and screw in the new sensor* then attach the spade

the other sensor wires required re spading** to the smaller male pins on the screw in sensor*

*available from brickwerks
**available from Halfords

[Simon Baxter]

Syncro's don't need the screw in sender, you will get the same readings out of a 20mm push in sensor if you select the right one.

The only trouble I see it the fact that they are not just sensors that are pushed into the housing, some are also switches.
Now, it may be possible to get other screw in sensors or switches that do a similar job to the push in ones, but it's just getting silly!

On a syncro with ally housing the large screw in sensor (M12) is for the engine management, the smaller M10x1 is for the gauge.
On a carb'd engine, one sender is for the gauge, the other for the heater in the bottom of the manifold., Both are push in.
On a injected engine, both are 20mm push ins and one does the ECU, the other does the gauge.

To me they want to have one threaded hole for the oil cooler water feed on a injected engine, that you can screw a off the shelf pipe tail into, or a off the shelf blank if you have a carb'd engine.

No reason why syncro has to have screw in sensors, they would work just as well with push in sensors, this makes the kit more universal and there are a damn site more 2WD on the road that syncro, so to me it needs to be the best it can for the common models and a comprimise for the not so common.

[Simon Baxter]

.... goes to check what sensors carburettored syncro's have, just out of curiosity...

[silverbullet]

right....think I have a plastic 2.1 one somewhere.....its not brilliant...and I am not sure where it is.....can I have it back when you have finished with it? Will try and look it out for you. Think I also have the old style 1.9 (metal one) in the garage...

oh - and deffo interested in metal ones..

Em
x

Professional service assured at all times, Em! I will of course return anything that is loaned to help the process along. Tie a return address tag to it before posting to the works...and try looking under the bed or somewhere for it!

the syncro housing is syncro spercific, it's metle and the sencor for the ECU is a screw (bolt) in type where on a 2wd it is push in type held in with a clip. i have a spair syncro sencor if that would help. in order to make it universal the input from the oil cooler on a 2.1 will have to have some sort of cap on it for use on the 1.9 that can be removed for use on a 2.1.

I fitted a metal housing to a transplanted 2.1, the plastic sensors were junked from my old 1.9.
Fairly easy job to get the temp sensor down to one wire (just snip off the earth) and screw in the new sensor* then attach the spade

the other sensor wires required re spading** to the smaller male pins on the screw in sensor*

*available from brickwerks
**available from Halfords

Trying to avoid anyone having to chop their loom about. I hope to be able to supply them to order, in other words the casting will be drilled or tapped in the relavent boss, depending on what you need for your engine type. The oil cooler pipe for the syncro will be plugged for 2wd versions. How does that sound?

[Simon Baxter]

Okay, carb heating can be done with a screw in sender unit, same temp range as the early (dogshit) WBX cooling system.
Just now looking if that part number is easily available on the aftermarket...

[axeman]

all 2.1's, well MV and DJ have an oil cooler, that will need an input to the housing. dont know anything about an SS though.

neil

[Simon Baxter]

Yep, loads make it, some will be fairly easy to get too.

So, it is possible to do the ECU via a secrew in sensor.
It is possible to do the manifold heating with a screw in sensor (and a wiring mod)
Just looking to see if one is available for the gauge with 2 pins to save hacking.
back soon.

[Simon Baxter]

Oh, would also have to be priced about €90.

[silverbullet]

Ok. Once I have some loan bits to show the foundry (and a dead one or two to glue/fill/shape into a master pattern that we can all agree on), then some vague idea of the initial production run to work out the payback timescale, we might have something going on here. Was that Euros or £? Same thing, really. Gut feeling is that it should be around that figure.

[axeman]

one more thing and those with bigger brains than me please shoot me down, but i have alredy had the top part of the housing fail (after the thermostat) the plastic housing cracked around one of the renforcing metle bushes, is it possible to have the top section made of alloy rather that plastic?

this will surely be the next weak link in the chain?

like i said if this is not possible for what ever reasion shoot me down.

neil

[Simon Baxter]

seems little point when they are cheap and you can get them easily.
I have a order going into classic parts in next few days, those lids are on the list with a whole heap of other stuff people keep asking for.

[clartsonly]

the df engine / carb uses the blue sensor to heat the carb as well as the manifold I think.

yeah bakelite.. not bakolite.. phonics from doctorwho I am afraid. I wasn't around when plastic was first invented.


ho important is it that it is the same housing? surely as long as the outs are the same dimensions and the thermostat fits and it doesn't hit the bodywork it should be all good.

also can you make sure the o ring (non existant in the plastic one) is fat enough to make sure peopl are happy enough to not overtighten anything, I am scared of even doing up a spark plug on mine in case I rip the engine to peices.

[silverbullet]

how important is it that it is the same housing? surely as long as the outs are the same dimensions and the thermostat fits and it doesn't hit the bodywork it should be all good.

also can you make sure the o ring (non existant in the plastic one) is fat enough to make sure peopl are happy enough to not overtighten anything, I am scared of even doing up a spark plug on mine in case I rip the engine to peices.

Detail improvements can be made once the project is underway. Being as the day-to-day business includes working on / repairing engines and parts from as far back as 1905, we like things engineered to last!

[Simon Baxter]

Classic parts say that they are already on the case, and come early April they may have some "news".
that is as of lunchtime today.

[silverbullet]

I'm going to the foundry today Friday 26th Feb about some other jobs. Will ask them about a raw universal casting price anyway (slightly modified to reduce patterning costs, but will make no difference to fit or function) as I am confident that I can produce a superior product to the originals.
OEM VW ones are made from very poor quality alloy - the reason why they corrode so quickly and severely, leading to pin-holing and worse.