asda smart price oil

[Gunslinger]

Morris SAE30 in my air cooled

[Red Westie]

And then there are folk than somehow feel as their van is 25-30 years old that 40 year old technology is best lol.
Why on earth would anyone ever want to use single weight Morris SAE30 when they can use a MULTIGRADE with all of its advancements.
I remember having Castrol GTX 20W50 in the pumps around 1977, I know multigrades had been around for a few years then.
Martin

[Bowton Lad]

And then there are folk than somehow feel as the van is 29 years old that 40 year old oil is best lol.
Why on earth would anyone ever want to use Morris SAE30 when they can use a MULTIGRADE.

Give it a rest Red Westie.

Oil may have changed since 1979-83 but the VW air-cooled flat four has stayed the same. The VW Type 4 engine was designed to run on monograde oil ie. SAE30. How many T25 owners complain of oil leaks from the push rod seals & other places when using SAE 20W50 or SAE 15W40? Multigrade oils are thinner at high temperature & leaks occur. If I still had my 2.0l air-cooled van I would deffo use SAE30 oil.

[Bowton Lad]

Morris SAE30 in my air cooled

Good choice of oil, Gunslinger.

[Red Westie]

Ignorance is bliss! so you are saying single weight SAE30 is thicker when hot than 20W50
YOU SAY the type 4 engine was designed to run on monograde oil ie; SAE30, SORRY NO! it was designed when there just wasn't anything better!
Guys like you just perpetuate URBAN MYTHS which were themselves invented by guys like you
And so...when I was working at a main VAG dealership back in the early 80's as a Grade 1 Technician and we had an air cooled T25 or Bay come in for service what oil do you think was specified in VW's service data...you guessed it...not a monograde but a multigrade (Volkswagens own service data)
FYI:
Oil weight, or viscosity, refers to how thick or thin the oil is. The temperature requirements set for oil by the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE) is 0 degrees F (low) and 210 degrees F (high).
Oils meeting the SAE's low temperature requirements have a "W" after the viscosity rating (example: 10W), and oils that meet the high ratings have no letter (example SAE 30). An oil is rated for viscosity by heating it to a specified temperature, and then allowing it to flow out of a specifically sized hole. Its viscosity rating is determined by the length of time it takes to flow out of the hole. If it flows quickly, it gets a low rating. If it flows slowly, it gets a high rating.
Engines need oil that is thin enough for cold starts, and thick enough when the engine is hot. Since oil gets thinner when heated, and thicker when cooled, most of us use what are called multi-grade, or multi-viscosity oils. These oils meet SAE specifications for the low temperature requirements of a light oil and the high temperature requirements of a heavy oil.

[rugchucker]

Spot on Red Westie.
Exactly what I was taught in the RN.
Still each to their own I suppose. I love Burgerking some love Mcshite.

[Bowton Lad]

Still each to their own I suppose. I love Burgerking some love Mcshite.

Some people have tastebuds & wouldn't be seen dead in either of the above establishments.

[Bowton Lad]

As previously stated, if I still had my 2.0l CU air-cooled van I would use SAE30 monograde oil.

However, in my current van which has a water-cooled 1.9DG engine I use either VW Quantum or Fuchs Titan 15W40 multigrade oil.

[Red Westie]

Quote: sorry M8...couldn't resist: so putting a water jacket over the old type 4 somehow changes it's oil requirements? lol
Martin

[clartsonly]

I am no oil science expert but my 1.9DF is running fine on 20/50, I know when I put shell helix in my 1990 volvo GLT16V, it rattled and tapped constantly.

the halfords "classic car" oil which is 20/50 is supposed to be thick enough to not seep through the various oil seals. again I am not a temperature scientific expert but do some engines running have a hotter engine temperature, for example vtec engines red line at 9000 rpm and I am sure the t25 only goes to about 3500rpm. <- please note I am also not a rpm scientific expert.

[CovKid]

I've never had probs wth cheap oil and being putting it in v-dubs since the mid 1980s. Since it gets changed regular I see no issue with it. I do treat all my engines to a teflon treatment though - not a bad backup in my experience. I did have a phase of using Shell Rimula (when it was still available) but I just fill up with el cheapo every four months these days. Never in all those years had an engine go on me, other than through sheer old age. Just change it regular.

[Cakewalk]

Been reading this with intrest as I'm about to carry out my first service on my van

I found this on Morris w/s

Supreme 30 or 40 are the ideal choice for Type 1 engines where the absence of fine filters limits the oil drain interval to 3000 miles. It should also be remembered that Type 1 engines have no proper oil seal at the pulley end of the crankshaft therefore, the crankcase is not sealed from contaminants. The use of modern oils without modifications would seriously compromise the engine as previously discussed.

In Type 4 engines the addition of an oil filter does allow the use of more modern fluids and increased drain times of 5000 miles. Supreme 30 and 40 may also be used in these engines however, multigrades such as Morris Lubricants Magnol 20w/50 or for rebuilt engines Servol High Performance 15w/50 can be used without compromise.

Mr Simon Matthews

BSc(Hons), CCHEM, MRSC, CSci, MEI, AIQA

Technical Advisor

Link for original page

http://www.morrislubricants.co.uk/lubri ... .asp?wp=96" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I think I'm gonna try Morris 20w/50 multigrade

[CovKid]

Quite. Cheapo is perfectly fine. Doesn't matter too much what you use within reason, but regular oil changes are whats important. If my oil seems to go thin or looks remotely suspect, I swap it out and at £6 a go, who cares. There are many types of motorists including the ones that are out with the polish at every opportunity and fill up with magnetec and whatever else but these are relatively simple vehicles with low-revving engines and even a cheap multigrade is better than what was around years ago.

Regular changes and good maintenance are key really. There was a great and well-researched article on the net somewhere that gave the low-down on oils and the hype put out by oil manufacturers (of which there is much). If you can afford a 'top of the range' oil (whatever that is) and are happy with it then great but you'll still end up changing it regular, or should do. Morrisons, Asda or whatever is also perfectly fine.

Theres no actual evidence that a 'supreme' oil makes an engine last any longer or wear less than a cheaper oil but plenty of evidence that not changing it regular is nor good for metal against metal. As I say, I've always tefloned my engines over 20 odd years but regular oil changes is better than even the most expensive oil.

[sendiw]

This is a slippery subject but heres what I think; Aldi sell a good oil when its on a special... German via the middle east. Worth stocking up when you can get it.

[colin davies]

Like most things you get what you pay for!

Oil is I would think the one component in an engine you cannot scrimp on. Obviously the supermarket own brand is not made by that supermarket but it is made to a specification which should be able to be checked. It will not be a bad oil but a more expensive branded oil will probably have a better spec.

I use Comma Eurolite semi synthetic 10w-40 in my DG engine. It is a UK product (part of the Mobil group) it meets the requirements of MB 229.9, VW505.00.
Its not the cheapest but oil is too important a component to scrimp on.

Incidentaly I have had the T25 a year now It is kept on a paved drive and it has not dropped any oil on the slabs, or any other fluid, except my blood,