Rear Hub Nuts

[shanco73]

I have just finished a fairly large list of jobs fo the MOT man, i now need to torque up the rear hub nuts, but my torque wrench does not go that high.

Anyone local to camberley with a hoofing great big torque wrench ?

Or do you reckon i should go to a local garage and ask them to torque the big buggers up ??

Cheers in advance

Steve

[Ian Hulley]

The official torque setting is 2 fat blokes and a 6' scaffold pole

Although if you prefer to pay a profeshnial

Ian.

[SyncroSwede]

I had to do a bearing on my 16" Syncro so I bought the socket in 3/4" drive and my local garage lent me a breaker bar to undo it and a 4' long torque wrench to do it up. No charge but then they know me

I was surprised at the effort required to get 500Nm, it was less than I thought so don't go mad with the scaffold pole!

I may cough up £40 for a bar at some point myself but I'm in no rush as there are few jobs that require it.

[shanco73]

Well i have a 600mm breaker bar with a 2 foot scaffold bar on the end, i wonder ?? i have tightened it as much as i could, and my bar was bending like a fishing rod maybe they are tight enough ?? maybe they are too tight ? I reckon they will probably do !!

I used an angle grinder to remove the old ones thats my favourite spanner !!

[Damien]

To undo mine it took me standing on my breaker bar and 2 big bounces, my breaker bar is only 24" ish long, (£20 from CAF, most useful tool ever!!). Will see tomorrow if i can get a big enough torque wrench to borrow for the evening, im in cove so could pop round on my way home if i get one

[lhd]

If it's not already undone mark the hub and nut with tippex then get the correct size socket a 1inch breaker bar and a six foot scaffold pole, this is how I did mine.
Oh and it bent the 1inch breaker bar that's how tight it is.
Rob.

[HarryMann]

'tis in the Wiki somewhere...

Go to about 350 ft-lb or so and then on to the next split-pin hole.

The outer rear bearings are plain roller bearings with a spacer/sleeve between it and inner ball-bearing. They usually come as one unit (but without the spacer which doesn't usually wear, a thick-walled hard-steel tube). These can be really tightened up to their required torque using a 3/4" drive socket, 'T bar' and a 4' tube, if you still have movement when they are torqued up then you'll need new bearings (but read-on below!). Divide your weight into 350 and ''stand, not jump'' that far along the bar (in feet), then on to next split-pin hole.

This will ALWAYS get the rear hub nut loosened, then use the socket to remove and refit and torque up