Merc Alloys on lowered bus

[MrDenis]

I'm about to get a set of Mercedes Alloys, 7X16 ET37 5/112 PCD.

Will these go straight on my bus even if it's had a 60mm lowering?

[MrDenis]

and how do I know if I'll need longer studs?

Sorry - bit thick!

[dwayne]

These wheels would fit nice , not 100% sure but think you will need 10mm spacer , which will mean longer studs on the back and front stud conversion from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?k ... hop.browse" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (reccomended )for the front

sure if I'm wrong someone will be along to correct

[MrDenis]

These wheels would fit nice , not 100% sure but think you will need 10mm spacer , which will mean longer studs on the back and front stud conversion from http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/index.php?k ... hop.browse" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (reccomended )for the front

sure if I'm wrong someone will be along to correct

I was hoping that with an ET of 37 I wouldn't need a spacer - wouldn't a 10mm spacer drop me to ET27 - outside of recommended values?

[mackz]

Yes I thought that an ET or between 30-39 was fine any thing over that and you need spacers
cut n pasted from Brick-Yard-

The ET measurement found on a wheel is the distance in millimeters from the bolt face of the wheel to the centre line of the wheel. ET is an abbreviation of a German term laterally meaning "Back Spacing".


T3's that came from the factory with steel wheels have a ET of 39 while T3's that left the factory with alloy wheels came with a ET of 30.
So, in my eyes if you are fitting alternative wheels you should be aiming for anywhere between ET 30 and ET 39. When using a wheel that wasn't designed for the T3 then you are unlikely to get the correct ET, this can be remedied by the use of spacers.

e.g. if your wheel has a ET of 45 then the use of a 10mm spacer shim would reduce the effective ET to 35, which is in the middle of the range of factory wheel offsets and would be acceptable for use.

[kevtherev]

No issues with that et for those wheels at 60mm

[windysurfer]

you might have to get the centers bored out to clear your grease caps

[wigster]

think you may need studs etc just down to the difference of thickness of alloys verses steels, but if you look at baxter's " definitive wheel guide" on brickyard, that should tell you the answers to most questions...wig

[lloyd]

ET is 1/2 of total equation. Half of wheel width + ET = distance from inside of wheel / clearance from suspension.

If you have a 5.5" (139.7mm) wide wheel and 39mm ET you have 108.85mm.... if you have 6.0" (152.4mm) and 30mm ET you have 106.2mm... if you have a 6.5" (165.1mm) wide wheel and 30mm ET you have 112.55mm.

So the wider the wheel, the less the ET... and that moves the bearing load farther out on the spindle / bearings... putting more load and wear on the suspension and bearings.

Link to drawing of above discription: http://www.needforspeed.co.uk/htmlpages/TechWheels.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Link to calculating: http://volksdevil.com/wheeloffset.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Hope that makes sense.

[kevtherev]

" definitive wheel guide" on brickyard, that should tell you the answers to most questions...wig

there's a "definitive" guide on here too, that answers all questions.

both in modified and on the wiki

[jamesc76]

i have those wheels,you need longer studs on the back and longer bolts on the back, plus a 10mm spacer on the front or it will rub against the suspension!