After changing bushes a small mistake I made was the eccentric washers not staying aligned for the insertion of camber rod. A lot of wiggling about finally saw the rod push through. However, when I turn 14mm allen key to adjust camber the wheel was restricted and moved through a buckled motion and not a pivotting motion. This was caused by one eccentric washer being 180 degrees out from the other. Sounds familiar?
Hmmmm, Don't like the sound of this. Is it a massive/pig of a job to take out bolt/washers to check? How would I do that?
Steering wheel was centred but it's not a big job for someone to alter that.
I really would like to know if the thread lengths should be the same.
Haynes say adjust .25 of a turn one side then the other. I can't see VW designing it to have longer threads on one side.
Before I adjusted I had about 12mm of thread showing on the near-side & about 30mm of thread showing on off-side.
This simply can't be right! Can it?
In a perfect world they would be equal lengths, but can be right if over the years something got tweaked on one side making steering box center different lengths on each side.... is the reason for extra thread. Could also be from factory if welding/assembly gigs were out a little from side to side. Could be alot of different tolerances stacking up to maximum on one side and minimum on other. As long as your steering wheel is centered and you can turn lock to lock with same angle on wheels on both sides, it's probably right.
lloyd wrote: As long as your steering wheel is centered and you can turn lock to lock with same angle on wheels on both sides, it's probably right.
Well I only took it round the block. Braked in a straight line & felt alot lighter than previous. May wanted of turn right a little but very difficult to say as you know what the roads are like round here! Will have to go up to the ring-road.
Could someone have a look under to see if their tie-rod threads are equal?
Sorry, not sure on that... I wouldn't assume they both have to show the same amount, but also assume they should be fairly close. Will look later at mine...
Thanks akira, I'll try to find time to construct a table of 2WD settings.. to complement that and put thos images in the Wiki
Some good points..
Steering should be centred using marks on rack's pinion lug/ rubber seal before adjusting toe.be careful interpreting toe figures; Total toe = 2 x toe per wheel
The uprights have cast lugs/flats for addressing with a caster gauge..
If all three are to be done, the correct order is Caster, Camber, Toe-in as caster affects the other two..
Also:
NB. For non 4WD Syncros: if steering wheel cannot be centred by adjusting tie rods, remove steering wheel and centre it on splines..
How do check the Caster Simon? Changed the radius arms on mine and it was about 1 Degree out as well as the Camber. They adjusted the caster and that brought the Camber back. Do you go by a standard measurment on the radius arms.
Jim
2.1 89 Caravelle Syncro
Laverda 750s (the big Lav)
