Urgent Help with taking rear wheel off
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Urgent Help with taking rear wheel off
Got a flat on the rear and I've never taken a wheel off on something as big as a T25 before. I feel like a right plank not being able to do something so simple
I've got the original jack and a 2 tonne trolley jack, thing is I don't know where's best to put the trolley jack in order to get the wheel off the ground. Just tried it and the jack reached it's maximum height and the wheel was not off the ground. The van lifted really high.
Any tips? Need to get it off to get it fixed ready for Solfest on friday and I'm working tomorrow.
Also any recommendations for a good fast tyre supplier? Will have to be a national firm due to time contraints
cheers
Shaun
I've got the original jack and a 2 tonne trolley jack, thing is I don't know where's best to put the trolley jack in order to get the wheel off the ground. Just tried it and the jack reached it's maximum height and the wheel was not off the ground. The van lifted really high.
Any tips? Need to get it off to get it fixed ready for Solfest on friday and I'm working tomorrow.
Also any recommendations for a good fast tyre supplier? Will have to be a national firm due to time contraints
cheers
Shaun
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Put the trolley jack under the bottom of the radius arm, where its front wheel will be hard against the inside of the one you're taking off. Or use the standard VW jack in the rear jacking point (juts in front of the wheel arch)
Keep out from under the vehicle if you do this, and chock a front wheel first and put h/brake on..
If it hasn't been off for a while, the best tool is a 19mm flank drive or impact socket (those black ones) fitted to a 24" 1/2" sq. drive powerbar - often the first bit of kit to buy with a T25, the wheel nuts need doing back up to about 100~130 ft-lbs, petty tight (see Wki on wheel nuts)
Keep out from under the vehicle if you do this, and chock a front wheel first and put h/brake on..
If it hasn't been off for a while, the best tool is a 19mm flank drive or impact socket (those black ones) fitted to a 24" 1/2" sq. drive powerbar - often the first bit of kit to buy with a T25, the wheel nuts need doing back up to about 100~130 ft-lbs, petty tight (see Wki on wheel nuts)
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Cheers Guys
I used the original OEM jack with no problems despite it's flimsy appearance. The trolley jack was useless and gave me far less confidence. And to think the OEM jack has been under the stairs for 2 years
Thanks Again, and cheers Kathy I will try to sort out taking it at dinner and picking it up friday morning. The flippin spare is balding too (never looked at it in anger, so only myself to blame)
I used the original OEM jack with no problems despite it's flimsy appearance. The trolley jack was useless and gave me far less confidence. And to think the OEM jack has been under the stairs for 2 years
Thanks Again, and cheers Kathy I will try to sort out taking it at dinner and picking it up friday morning. The flippin spare is balding too (never looked at it in anger, so only myself to blame)
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HarryMann wrote:.
If it hasn't been off for a while, the best tool is a 19mm flank drive or impact socket (those black ones) fitted to a 24" 1/2" sq. drive powerbar - often the first bit of kit to buy with a T25, the wheel nuts need doing back up to about 100~130 ft-lbs, petty tight (see Wki on wheel nuts)
I have a 2ft bat to tighten them back up
Last edited by Cruz on 23 Aug 2007, 06:33, edited 1 time in total.
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Cruz wrote:I used the original OEM jack with no problems despite it's flimsy appearance.
I do think they have a reputation for failing, however. I believe the thread can strip, but this can be made less likely by keeping it well greased.
Member 1045 – 1986 1.6 n/a Diesel conversion (JK, probably from a Caddy)
Yes the threads do strip, wham, down they come, make sure its free-running all the way up by cleaning threads before greasing... else could still fail.
Just check they're still tight at reasonable intervals... a mile or two is too soon, 100 miles too late
I have one of these and jumped on it to tighten them back up. Should be OK if I check them after a mile or two's driving?
Just check they're still tight at reasonable intervals... a mile or two is too soon, 100 miles too late
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I torque up eurofighter frame assemblies that require greater torques than wheel nuts, you wouldn't want a eurofighter rear tailfin falling off over your house now would you? So I have a good feel for whats required.
Last edited by Cruz on 23 Aug 2007, 06:32, edited 1 time in total.
Nissan Micra - about 37 ft-lbf
T25 - 130 ft-lbf
Big diff
Main thing is to clean the threads from time to time, so the torque goes into clamping force, not just thread friction. Backs of wheels and flanges as well, then about 100 ft-lbf seems fine.
Wikion wheels and tyres
I'll keep an eye out then for any tail fins fitted to the front, and duck if see one
T25 - 130 ft-lbf
Big diff
Main thing is to clean the threads from time to time, so the torque goes into clamping force, not just thread friction. Backs of wheels and flanges as well, then about 100 ft-lbf seems fine.
Wikion wheels and tyres
eurofighter rear tailfin
I'll keep an eye out then for any tail fins fitted to the front, and duck if see one
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I discovered how the OEM jack works on the hard shoulder of the M5 on Sunday - not the best place to be wheel juggling!! I was proper scared! It works well though, I was impressed
Didn't realise the nuts needed to be so tight - really will have to invest in a torque wrench, i'm sure the 'that must be tight enough 'cause the veins are popping out my head technique' is well and good but maybe not the safest way to be carrying on!
Didn't realise the nuts needed to be so tight - really will have to invest in a torque wrench, i'm sure the 'that must be tight enough 'cause the veins are popping out my head technique' is well and good but maybe not the safest way to be carrying on!
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