Urgent Help with taking rear wheel off

Post by **Cruz** » 22 Aug 2007, 19:39

Got a flat on the rear and I've never taken a wheel off on something as big as a T25 before. I feel like a right plank not being able to do something so simple

I've got the original jack and a 2 tonne trolley jack, thing is I don't know where's best to put the trolley jack in order to get the wheel off the ground. Just tried it and the jack reached it's maximum height and the wheel was not off the ground. The van lifted really high.

Any tips? Need to get it off to get it fixed ready for Solfest on friday and I'm working tomorrow.

Also any recommendations for a good fast tyre supplier? Will have to be a national firm due to time contraints

cheers

Shaun

Post by **kathyshack** » 22 Aug 2007, 19:47

cruz,
ats put me replacement on a couple of years back when it failed its mot. think it was pretty standard for them. Bit of rum luck that - a flat after the shocks and cv episode last weekend! Hope you get it sorted. gis a shout if you need any help getting a replacement tommorow.
kathy

Post by **HarryMann** » 22 Aug 2007, 19:57

Put the trolley jack under the bottom of the radius arm, where its front wheel will be hard against the inside of the one you're taking off. Or use the standard VW jack in the rear jacking point (juts in front of the wheel arch)

Keep out from under the vehicle if you do this, and chock a front wheel first and put h/brake on..

If it hasn't been off for a while, the best tool is a 19mm flank drive or impact socket (those black ones) fitted to a 24" 1/2" sq. drive powerbar - often the first bit of kit to buy with a T25, the wheel nuts need doing back up to about 100~130 ft-lbs, petty tight (see Wki on wheel nuts)

Post by **Cruz** » 22 Aug 2007, 20:03

Cheers Guys

I used the original OEM jack with no problems despite it's flimsy appearance. The trolley jack was useless and gave me far less confidence. And to think the OEM jack has been under the stairs for 2 years

Thanks Again, and cheers Kathy I will try to sort out taking it at dinner and picking it up friday morning. The flippin spare is balding too (never looked at it in anger, so only myself to blame)

Post by **kathyshack** » 22 Aug 2007, 20:33

oof! glad yer sorted. should be right for friday even if they have to order a tyre in for you

Just heard from linda and lees back form corwall tommorow night so thats a little convoy of 3 vans now heading up to meet you friday.

Can't wait for solfest!!!!

Post by **Cruz** » 22 Aug 2007, 20:49

HarryMann wrote:.

If it hasn't been off for a while, the best tool is a 19mm flank drive or impact socket (those black ones) fitted to a 24" 1/2" sq. drive powerbar - often the first bit of kit to buy with a T25, the wheel nuts need doing back up to about 100~130 ft-lbs, petty tight (see Wki on wheel nuts)

I have a 2ft bat to tighten them back up

Post by **MacAoidh** » 22 Aug 2007, 21:18

Cruz wrote:I used the original OEM jack with no problems despite it's flimsy appearance.

I do think they have a reputation for failing, however. I believe the thread can strip, but this can be made less likely by keeping it well greased.

Post by **HarryMann** » 22 Aug 2007, 22:10

Yes the threads do strip, wham, down they come, make sure its free-running all the way up by cleaning threads before greasing... else could still fail.

I have one of these and jumped on it to tighten them back up. Should be OK if I check them after a mile or two's driving?

Just check they're still tight at reasonable intervals... a mile or two is too soon, 100 miles too late

Post by **Cruz** » 22 Aug 2007, 22:28

I torque up eurofighter frame assemblies that require greater torques than wheel nuts, you wouldn't want a eurofighter rear tailfin falling off over your house now would you?

So I have a good feel for whats required.

Post by **HarryMann** » 23 Aug 2007, 01:25

Nissan Micra - about 37 ft-lbf
T25 - 130 ft-lbf

Big diff

Main thing is to clean the threads from time to time, so the torque goes into clamping force, not just thread friction. Backs of wheels and flanges as well, then about 100 ft-lbf seems fine.

Wikion wheels and tyres

eurofighter rear tailfin

I'll keep an eye out then for any tail fins fitted to the front, and duck if see one

Post by **ding-dang-dhu** » 23 Aug 2007, 04:26

Cruz wrote:The tool is a good length giving a good moment of force and torque.

Not saying a word

Post by **Cruz** » 23 Aug 2007, 06:48

Used a torque wrench on the nuts just now and they were about 108lb/ft with my wrench bar. They are now set at 130lb/ft with a proper torque wrench.

Thanks for all your help, better to be safe than never to be sorry (as your dead)

Post by **toomanytoys** » 23 Aug 2007, 08:21

Official number is 127ftlbs, but I generally use 100ftlbs and check them occasionally.. never had a problem in over 250k km...

usuall disclaimer applies....

Post by **Cruz** » 10 Sep 2007, 18:40

Do you all tighten your wheel nuts with the powerbar or do you carry a torque wrench too?

Post by **uniB** » 10 Sep 2007, 19:05

I discovered how the OEM jack works on the hard shoulder of the M5 on Sunday - not the best place to be wheel juggling!! I was proper scared! It works well though, I was impressed

Didn't realise the nuts needed to be so tight - really will have to invest in a torque wrench, i'm sure the 'that must be tight enough 'cause the veins are popping out my head technique' is well and good but maybe not the safest way to be carrying on!