Electrolux 184 RM Three Way Fridge Problems (lots of pics)

[Mocki]

the 12v bit is infact a heating element, so its silent, as is the 240v .

the 12v on some fridges only manages to maintain the temp , not lower it, according to some on here, although several i know who dont have thermo controlled 12v report that it will freeze the milk in 3hours of driving.

you will need to have it on 12v for a good couple of hours from ambeint twmp to see any cooling i recon.
use a food themometer to see the fridge temp before you test, so you can really see whats happening.

i would in reality drop a couple of 2litre bottles of water prechilled in the house fridge in to get the fridge down below ambient before starting the test to make it fair, and remember a empty fridge wont get as cold anyway so the chilled water will help you see the real picture. and remember you need the fridge to be level.

[Llamapup]

the 12v bit is infact a heating element, so its silent, as is the 240v .

Thanks for replying so quickly Mocki. Your coments about silent running on electric setting are quite reassuring. I had no idea that a heating element was what made the electric bit of the fridge work. I was expecting there was some sort of compressor. That explains the silent running I suppose.

Its been about an hour and a half since I put it on 12V and I'm fairly certain that I can detect no decernable coldness.

I'm absolutley certain that the fridge has functioned on 12 volt since I bought it last January though. I drove from Leeds to Blackpool (about 1.5 hours) and when I got there its was pretty frosty! So unless there is something wrong with the wireing it should work.

I'm just a little suspicious that I can't feel any cooling yet.

Ahh well. I'll just have to go for a spin tommorow.

Thanks

Chris

[Llamapup]

I'm curious to understand a bit more about how a 12V fridge works. I found this web site below that explains how the chemical reaction works, but I'm still none to wiser about how evaporating amonia vapours creat cooling.

http://www.rvmobile.com/Tech/Trouble/cooldoc.htm

Diagram of fridge.

[toolsntat]

Not the same fridge as my ones but the layout at the back seems standard....

When you say you've had it on 12v for 1 1/2 hours, is this with your engine running ?

When I checked mine on 12v it was with engine ticking over for around 3/4 hour and there was a definite cooling...

Does the piping get hot in the orange rectifier and water separator area ??

Because from what I can work out this is what starts the cooling process off....

Great fridge diagram

[Llamapup]

Not the same fridge as my ones but the layout at the back seems standard....

When you say you've had it on 12v for 1 1/2 hours, is this with your engine running ?

When I checked mine on 12v it was with engine ticking over for around 3/4 hour and there was a definite cooling...

Engine is not running. How much does this matter

Chris

[toolsntat]

Mine has a relay to make sure battery is disconnected when stopped...

Usually fridges are wired this way to stop them flattening the batteries....

[toolsntat]

Pm,d ya chris.....

[dwayne]

I did wonder when reading this thread yesterday whether you had been running the engine but thought you must have done , sorry should have posted earlier as far as I know all fridges only work on 12V when running as toolsntat says to stop the battery from running down should you forget to switch over .

[Llamapup]

I did wonder when reading this thread yesterday whether you had been running the engine but thought you must have done , sorry should have posted earlier as far as I know all fridges only work on 12V when running as toolsntat says to stop the battery from running down should you forget to switch over .

Okay well that sounds like it could be the problem with my 12V test. It was on 12V all night an no cooling was felt at the element in the fridge.

I have swithed it over to gas for now to see if that function has been improved by cleaning out the orifice. Its been on gas for about an hour and I can already feel some coolness at the element in the fridge and there is some warm warmth coming from the flu.

Does the exit of the flu on the outside of the van actually ever get hot when running on gas though? Does it take much time to experience any significant cooling, or does it take a while to build up sufficient heat in the system?

Mine just seems slightly warm after an hour.

Thanks

Chris

[Mocki]

if your didnt have the engine running the 12v wasnt getting any power if it was installed in the van.
the outside flu wont get hot, just warm.

start the engine, check the voltage at the battery, then switch the fridge on 12v, you will see a small voltage drop at the battery mostly.

[dwayne]

I have never felt the flue to know how hot it gets , will try later just to know

my fridge an electrolux but not same model takes 1 hour from warm for there to be frosting on the freezer on 240 ,1.5-2 hours on gas or 12v whilst driving .

Best way for getting it cold before trips is to put on 240 at home the night before leaving , you can buy at most camping shops a little lead to convert your hook up lead to a 3 pin plug .

mine stopped working on gas a few weeks ago would light and go out a little clean of the jet with a bit of wire cured that , managed to do it from the side vent which was a bonus , saved taking the fridge out .

I have also a few times forgotten to switch from gas to 12v whilst driving , never once has it blown out even all the way from RTTH , so if it didn't work on 12v for some reason and I had a fridge full of food I wouldn't hesitate to drive with the fridge on gas , probably wouldn't recommend it all the time though .

Hope you get it sorted mate

[Llamapup]

I don't think the fridge is working on 12V, at least not very well anyway. I went for a 45 minute drive in 12V mode. When I checked the freezer it was only slightly cool. I then went on a 30 minute walk with the fridge set to gas mode. When I got back it was starting to get pretty frosty on in the fridge. I put it in 12V mode again and drove the 45 mins home. When I got home again it had clearly warmed up. There was actually water dropplets in the tray where it collects when the fridge defrosts.

I have no idea why its working in gas mode but not 12V mode. Hmmmm

Chris

[dwayne]

I would say from your description that it doesn't work on 12v , should just be a case of checking connections , inline fuse , trace wiring back to battery . If it works in other modes and gets frosty after 1/2 hour on gas then it works well , just to check ....... do you have a separate switch other than the fridge switch ?, I have a little switch on the dash just under where the ignition is that switches the 12v on and off , others with a zig have a switch there to change fridge modes , sure you must have another switch as well or zig

[Llamapup]

I would say from your description that it doesn't work on 12v , should just be a case of checking connections , inline fuse , trace wiring back to battery . If it works in other modes and gets frosty after 1/2 hour on gas then it works well , just to check ....... do you have a separate switch other than the fridge switch ?, I have a little switch on the dash just under where the ignition is that switches the 12v on and off , others with a zig have a switch there to change fridge modes , sure you must have another switch as well or zig

Dwayne.
Thanks for you advice. I had a bit of a look and I can't find any 12V swtiches or a Zig unit in the front of the van at all. There is nothing on or under the dash that does anything other than control the heater and radio. There are some odd bits of electrical equipment dotted around the van that may tell us something however. I have taken a fair few photos to see if I can identify this switch that you refer to:

1) Here is the leisure battery under the drivers seat (there is nothing in the box under the passenger seat):


2) Here is what looks like a relay linked to the leisure battery. (does that tell us anything?)


3) This set of fuses seem to connect to the fridge and the water pump for the tap. There is annother in line fuse in the food cupbord. All are fine.


4) Here is a socket and some sort of switch. (I presumed the switch is just a circuit breaker for the socket though)



5) Here is the wiring at the back of this switch in a storage cupboard.



6) Not that it probably makes any diference at all, but here is the heater. I presume it runs on 12V.


7) Here is that switch that fridge switch I fitted again just for good measure.


Here are the switches that tell you how much power and water you have. The battery one shows a green light at the top indicating full charge I presume.


That's every bit of electrical kit in the entire van. I can't find a Zig unit anywhere. It does look like I have a fair few 12V items though (heater, fridge, sink pump). Is it possible that it would be fitted in the actual engine bay? The van is a 1988 Westy Joker. Where did they fit this sort of switch from new?

Does any of that help identify my problem at all?

Thanks

Chris

[Westy.Club.Joker]

Have you read this?? Owners manual, explains most things

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/westy ... 40840.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

also:

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/usefu ... a285b.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;