CU Distributor (again), now not starting :(

[very_bland]

How do all, I need to find out once and for all what this distributor is...

It is on my 1981 CU 2.0l AC, it is a single vacuum distributor with this coding on the side:

Z 43
0 231 168 015
043 905 205 L

It also has VW Audi stamped next to that coding

In the Haynes, there are 2 distributors, the single vac and the duel vac, but I am presuming that the single vac is for the 1.6 (?) if so, anyone know if that is what I have? Or is it from a completely different VW altogether? Am I okay running it with this distributor, or would it be a better idea to get the duel vac?

Cheers in advance,
Billy

[bigherb]

It is for a 1600 twin port Bay/Beetle engine code AS

[BOXY]

The Bosch number for the dual-vac dizzie on a CU engine is 0237 023 007. You could get the engine running with the one you've got but the advance curve will probably be wrong and it might not advance enough anyway. Is the one you've got running points or has it got the electronic ignition plumbed in?

I tried a 0237 023 019 which turned out to be off a DF engined van. It would have worked but the timing mark was in the wrong place and on closer inspection one of the bob weight springs had gone AWOL anyway. When I finally fitted the right dizzie it worked for two weeks before the Hall sensor failed so I'm back with a 009 fitted for the moment.

[very_bland]

Thanks a lot BOXY and bigherb.



It has got running points. I have had it running with it on, but acceleration has always been poor at the bottom end of each gear, so the van slows down every time I change up, and then feels like it is lugging a bit. Looks like I am back to the plan of getting a DVDA.

A chap, who I thought was pretty reliable for information, informed me that I could not use the dual vac distributor without installing the idle stabilizer unit and ignition module (both are missing from my van).... but his information is becoming increasingly unreliable so I would like a second opinion on that.

I have been massively put off the idea of getting a 009 I would much prefer to get a DVDA sorted!

Thanks again!
Billy

[BOXY]

The dual-vac distributor has a Hall sensor not points, so you will need an ECU (ignition module) at least. You can get away without the idle stabilizer because you can plug the two plugs that fit to it together. You'll need the loom that joins all the bits together as well.

I know the 009 has got no fans on this forum but my van runs fine with one fitted. I am going try a dual-vac dizzie on my van again once I've robbed the Hall sensor off the DF's dizzie but for now the 009 is keeping me on the road.

[very_bland]

Thanks again Boxy

I appreciate the encouragement on the 009 subject, but I think I shall go straight for the duel vac. With any luck the wiring loom is still in the van, and I just need to source the idle stabilizer on top of the dizzy.... I've got a black box, with wires coming out of it (no idea where any of them go, I've not yet assessed that part....helpful aye?), in the space behind the nearside rear lights... could that be it, or is it at the other end of the van entirely?

These 2 plugs that go into the idle stabilizer I keep hearing about, where do they come from? I currently have the wiring on my carbs as per bigherbs suggestion:

You should have three connections to the lefthand carb taken from terminal 15 of the coil. Choke, idling cut off valve and the idling enrichment valve then down to the anti run on valve, wired in parallel like a Daisey chain using 0.5mm cable. Two to the right hand carb, choke and idling cut off valve

So from where do they run onto the stabilizer unit? From the idle cut off valves on each carb?

After rereading that bigherb, by "Two to the right hand carb, choke and idling cut off valve" did you mean 2 wires from the coil (1 to the choke, the other to the the idling cut off valve) or did you mean coil, to choke to idling cut off in daisy chain? Because I've got a feeling you meant the former.... I did the later.

Massively appreciate the help

Cheers,
Billy

[BOXY]

Sorry to bear bad news but the loom and magic boxes sound like they're missing. The idle stab & ECU are normally mounted on the left hand side of the engine bay towards the bulkhead.



The "loom" has three moulded plugs to fit the boxes, and a couple of spade connectors for the coil at one end, and a moulded plug that fits into the dizzie & an earth at the other. You can see the "box" connections in this photo. The arrowed ones go to the coil. The connections bigherb is talking about all come off the single wire from the coil, four on the left carb and two on the right carb. It is a 12v supply to the solenoids. It's the red wire at the bottom of the photo. If you connect them with the ignition switch turned on but the engine not running you can hear them click if you want to check they are working.



Ideally you want to try to buy the complete set-up from a running van that has been recently scrapped. Buying bits that have been kept as spares and kept in a shed for a few years might mean they're not 100% serviceable any more.

I've got a black box, with wires coming out of it (no idea where any of them go, I've not yet assessed that part....helpful aye?

You don't want to go poking about in there!

[very_bland]

Cheers Boxy!

I was aware that I didn't have the idle stabiliser and ECU, souds like you are right, don't think I have loom either. Joy, looks like more hunting is required!

Thanks for your help!

Billy

[BOXY]

This is what the loom looks like. Try not to get a dizzie with the Hall sensor plug held on with a zip-tie.

[very_bland]

Haha

nice one Boxy

[very_bland]

Right, I've got it all!

One quick question, the part of the wiring loom that plugs into the hall sensor, there is a brown wire next to it with a spade connector on it... the one on the picture above has a ring terminal.... is this just an earth wire? Where is the best place to plug it? There is a little ::::insert technical term::::: (connection point, to receive a spade connector, right next to where the dizzy fits, so i suppose that makes sense, but there is something else plugged there which disappears somewhere behind the black box in the space behind the left rear light.



Thanks for any help!

[Footprint]

Yes it's an earth - possibly the most important one in the whole van.

It should either go on to a good earth point on the crankcase, or, as with some proper CU engine distributors I have seen, a spade connector mounted directly onto the side of the distributor body.

It must be properly connected to the engine and chassis earth for the ignition system to work properly, you will notice that it goes directly to the ignition amplifier and is the earth/neutral connection to the coil that is switched on and off to cause the spark

[BOXY]

the one on the picture above has a ring terminal

No it's a spade connector, it's just still connected to the ring & male spade that would be held in place by the nut holding the distributor clamp in place. I took it off when I swapped the 009 back in. As Footprint says make sure it's a tight fit before you test out the "new" dizzie.

[very_bland]

grand, ok cheers fellas!




fingers crossed, the ol' girl might work by the end of today!

[very_bland]

HA! I should be so lucky! it's not starting now!

Fuel IS being delivered to the carbs, and before I changed the distributor over the HT leads worked fine, the spark plugs are only a month or so old as is the battery, the "new" bits i have put on (ignition module, idle stabiliser, coil and DVDA distributor) were all checked on another vehicle 2 days ago, and work fine.
I have definately got the ht leads in the right order, and I turned the crank round till there was compression in cylinder 1 then continued round to TDC before installing the new dizzy, I also repeated this process, installing the dizzy at 5 ATDC, still no joy.
It is turning, but not firing!

Aside from the HT leads getting knackered during the change-over, I really am at a loss as to why it is not firing up.... any ideas?

Cheers,
Billy