Club 80-90 Forums

I am getting an auto electrician to check over my van in a few days time, mainly because he is coming up here anyway and he's a friend ... so won't charge much.

What should I get checked ?

Is there any electrical modifications which would be considered normal.

I have a T25 California and the first job will be to change the rear internal lights and the radio from ther main battery circuit to the leisure battery.

The wiring to my alternator got damaged by chafing against something (can't remember quite by what now, I'm afraid).
Result was I had to re-wire the last few inches of the loom that connects onto the back of the alternator, think the connector got burnt out due to the short when it chafed through.
So get him to just give the wiring in this area a bit of a visual. Nice and easy as it's on the top of the engine

Get him to check starter connections are in A1 condition.

Get him to do the headlamp relay mod!!

Rob

Common electrical issues: (Some late westfalia specific)

Earth crown/terminal corrosion above the fuse box A post (remove clean & replace crowns & terminals) leaking screen corner.

Tired blower motor (squealing) blowing fuses. (blower & switch replacement) also effects wipers (on the same fuse).

Poor headlamps caused by massive voltage drop across switches (burn out)/old wiring and connections. (relay mod) really helps especially on 4 headlamp models like the California.

Starting issues (mainly petrol engines) corroded terminals & wiring at the starter, braid between solenoid & starter body (corroded), main earth on gearbox mount (bad corrosion), ignition switch failure, loose damaged battery terminals.

Fridge / sink electrics (lube multi push button switch above fridge) suspect dual fuse holder on drivers B pillar
LED warning lights irratic.....dry cracked joints on toggle switches...re-solder.
Fridge auto igniter failure....might be faulty igniter but could be that push button control or fuse on B pillar.
Sink tap water pump failure....often a seized pin that operates the microswitch or the microswitch itself.

Double 'on' or excessive pressure needed to get brake lights to come on.....needs new hydraulic switches on the master cylinder.

Issues with Ebberspacher not blowing hot (age related) needs service but also poor wiring connections (B piller fuse holder & main earth below ash tray rear seat)

BBB (black buzzing box) charger not working (charges both batteries) internal fuse blows (on the PCB) and sometimes thermal fuse fails as well (top of transformer, also internal)

Horn irratic ..earth at base of column suspect or horn ring contact worn out.

No rad fan operation...thermo switch failure.....located right lower part of radiator.

Split charge relay failure (sometimes permanently connects leisure to starter batteries) usually down to excess current flow during battery failure. Split charge circuit is pretty weak and often needs upgrading. (relay next to drivers battery box/hand brake lever).

Rear side lights very dull....need to fit 10 watt bulbs 'not 5 watts as some have'.

Low regulated charge voltage.....poor connections and wiring but can also be improved by fitting a higher voltage (14.5volt) regulator brush pack.

Interior light/radio mod, to ensure all camping electrics run off the leisure battery...see WIKI for 'How To Do'

There are lots of other ...many age related..electrical problems (dash PCB circuit board/warning like issues/vanagon syndrome/fuel gauge, temp miss-reading..voltage regulator u/s) but these are rarer.

No fault but swapping out the Euro DIN socket (on the dash) for a more useful standard cigarette lighter (hole needs enlarging slightly).
No level indicator on LPG tank (not electric but magnetic) fault due to internal float filling with LPG....needs strip & reseal.


Martin

California Dreamin wrote:Common electrical issues ...

... Double 'on' or excessive pressure needed to get brake lights to come on.....

Martin

Thank you for the great reply.

One item causing problems and maybe a battery drain is the wee switch to the right behind the fridge door. Sometimes it goes on by itself and I can hear the clicking sound, fridge pilot ignition. the switch is small and femmer and if I drive over bumpy roads (pothole patches etc) it moves. Is it easy to gain access to this, or would it just be easier to fit a switch on the fridge supply cable ?

From your description it is unclear as to which switch you are talking about....the igniter is 'automatic' and comes on when 'the flame' goes out on the fridge BUT only when the push buttons are set to 'gas' position. This mechanical 'push button' panel benefits from removal/lube so the push button action works correctly.

Martin