Club 80-90 Forums

Just bought a new distrutor from just kampers for my 1990 2.1 petrol t25 and mechanically all fits fine, but noticed the ignition loom to the black female connector block is rectangular ... whereas on my old one it's semi-circular ended female plug,

Is there anywhere I can obtain just a new rectangular male connector block (so I can just snip the old wires and re-solder them to the connector outside the distibutor) so I don't have to take the new & old distributors to bits and re-solder the old/original connector back in place ???

Any advice appreciated - looking for the new male connector plug online now ...

Cheers
Richard.

JK Part Number: J19787 OEM Part Number: 025-905-237
This replacement distributor is supplied complete with cap and rotor ready to instal. Fits all 2.1 T25s with the MV, SR and SS engine codes from 1986 to 1991

http://www.justkampers.com/vw-t25-parts ... -1991.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Not quite 'ready to install' then - unless it isn't meant to fit yours.

Yes thats the one, and I've seen a little note somewhere (JK confirmed on the phone last friday) stating that you may need to disassemble and reconnect your distributors existing connector to it, which includes soldering and cutting ... thing is I need circlips to remove the top of the distributor cover which sits under the rotor arm to get at them too - looks fiddly and I need to by some circlips

Anyone managed to get a new 3 pin box male connector to avoid having to do this ?

They are just junior power timer plugs
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Genuine-Bosch ... 1e875ac328" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Fandabitastic - cheers fella!

After obtaining the above from ebay and playing around, they didn't make contact - The actual connector I should have got is female one ... doh me!

http://www.efihardware.com/products/349 ... 3-pin-plug" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Will let you know the outcome! either way parts are cheap - and I better get myself a crimper too!

They are the same, that is the latter quick release version did you push it right down so the spring clip engaged.

Yes I did push it home - the outside clip engaged, but I didn't use a crimper -- noted it was very hard to push the pins down inside the unit (once crimped + wired up), used a micro screwdriver to do this by pushing down on the back on the crimped housing (which just about touches the insulated edge of the cable), the prong's don't protrude outside of the unit & hence don't appear to make contact the pins at the bottom?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-3-Way-S ... 1e88f30739" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Is it worth getting the one above, which looks the right orientation !?!

Cheers,
Rich.

I use these junior power timer connectors a lot on heaters - I don't know exactly what you are doing but you shouldn't need force to insert male or female pins. I insert them just by pushing the wire in, it only takes minimal force to get them to click in place. You must be doing something wrong to need force. I solder all my connectors rather than crimping them. I am doing some right this minute as I am making up a new heater harness.

Interesting, but a bit confusing... I'm unclear whether the OP's distributor is actually the correct one for their engine, 2.1 DJ's have a different dissie to the 2.1 MV/SS/SR. The JK distributor is being sold as suitable for the MV/SS/SR therefore MUST have the correct connector for that engine else JK are in breach of the sale of goods laws.

Regarding connectors, there are two different parts listed on ETKA:

DJ dissie (pn. 025 905 205 AF)

3-pin flat contact housing: 211 905 327
Protective cap: 281 919 141 A




MV dissie (pn. 025 905 237)

3-pin flat contact housing: 443 906 236
also use: 191 906 102




The above housing does take 'standard' 2.8mm Junior-Power-Timer terminals.

HTH

Just seen the OP's other thread mentioning a completely different distributor ?

Is this a wind up ?

Did I completely waste my time posting on this thread ??

E D I T: Apologies that was rather grumpy. Hopefully the information was of use to someone

Thanks for your advice Syncroandy - much appreciated!

The plug you recommended looks virtually identical to the one I posted & have just purchased on ebay (although part no ref is different) which arrives tomorrow.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bosch-3-Way-S ... 328wt_1192

The plug is required for my new DJ distributor (the correct one purchased from cool air vw);
http://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Shop_by ... J-CB-.html

Ah right, so the Coolair 'AF' dissies have the wrong connector fitted at the factory ?

Part 443 906 236 now fits a charm ...

Then proceeded to align the the dizzy rotor with number 1 ht lead contact and fly wheel on tdc marker (couldn't remove spark plug to no.1 because it was too darn tight !!!! so decided just to continue) .... after a few repeated attempts engine turned very slowly ... and slower ... and slower ..., but won't fire. I asked the wife to jump in the cab and continue turning the engine but then there was an almighty BANG from the exhaust

No outside damage apparent !! mmm ... but blimey it was loud and smelled sooty! I can only guess it's due to an over build up of pressure

So I removed number 1 ht lead with ignition left on and turning engine manually, I'm not appearing to get a spark ... mmm ...

For the time being I've left the battery on charge, and tomorrow I'll double check the 3 pin connection to the hall sender is sound - any tips for this?? think I saw something about plugging a wire into the middle pin, and measuring the voltage between the outside pins ?

Failing that I'm going to call out a mobile mechanic down the road to assist - don't want to damage it

Any advice appreciated... newby with a little bit of mechanical experience !

Cheers,
Richard.

Have you seen the recent thread about JK selling dizzies that are 20 degrees (or similar) out on the timing ? The OP on that thread sent his back iirc, and got a "proper" one.

Oh, by the way, the backfire is not a build up of pressure, it is caused by the spark occurring whilst the exhaust valve is open, (because of the above issue) exploding unburnt fuel in the silencer. It has been known to damage silencers Take care.