Speedo works but the mileometre doesn't

[conkers]

Help.... The speedo works fine if a little wobbly but the milometer doesn't .... Can anyone help?

Thanks

[ELVIS]

Will be the little white plastic drive cog on the end.

They split, or come loose as interefernce fit on shaft and just spin freely or a tooth snaps and they dont mesh.

American site sells replacement cogs for a few dollars. Cant remember who and its too late for me to google it. will try and remember tomorrow

[pirate-pete]

One of the cogs on the odometer drive will be loose. On mine the shaft holding the number rings started working its way to the left so the cogs would not mesh. Used to be able to push it back in and counter would work for a while but soon got worse and worse. Fixed it in the end with a bit of superglue on the right end gear which I think drives the trip meter. Need to be very carful with it as a drop of glue dropped on the intermediate gear linking to the trip. Had a right old time getting that scraped away so all the teeth would mesh properly again.

[California Dreamin]

Most users 'Start' with the super glue but it doesn't last.....I think is was Andy at Camper Shack who came up with the more permanent solution of crimping next to the gear.....I haven't done it that way myself but I can see that it would prevent the gears lateral movement on the shaft due to not being able to get past the crimp (side cutters squashing the shaft making it oval)....don't go too mad though.

Martin

[ghost123uk]

I used the crimping method. I used the serrated bit of the jaws of a pair of pliers (that were in good nick). After (very carefully) removing the tiny cog and then it's metal shaft, I squeezed the shaft at the point were the cog seats. I was guessing the metal would be hard, so I gave it a fair old squeeze. The serrations on the pliers jaws created ridges on the shaft. Actually it turned out the shaft was not as hard as I thought and the ridges were too much . I had a bit of a job getting the cog back on and in fact ended up lightly sanding the shaft with fine wet and dry paper! The cog then went on with a good push. I was worried about it breaking but it didn't.

Was a pretty fiddly job and you need good eyesight, good light, patience and lots of care !

Note, you do need to take the needle off (it just pulls off, careful !). Three points arise. First the screws holding the dial on have very fine slots, you need a very fine screwdriver ! (or the blade of a Swiss Army knife ). Next is the tiny hair spring under the needle. It is so delicate and very easily damaged. If you do damage it you will need another speedo unit Guess what I did (Thanks Adam). Next = replacing the needle. Care needed. Before you remove it, very carefully lift it over it's "stop pin". It will settle somewhere under the stop pin. There is a tiny white mark on the dial that is supposed to correspond with the "resting" point of the needle. Mine was a few degrees out. I marked the dial myself. On re-assembly you need to reverse this process, i.e. put the needle on below the stop pin, in a position aligned with the mark you made, then carefully lift it back over the stop pin. If you don't do all this your speedo will read miles out (Again, guess how I know this )

[conkers]

Thanks guys....helpful as ever!

[ajsimmo]

Quick add-on to advice, here (which is all good).
Take note of your speedo accuracy (checked against satnav) before starting the job. If it's, say, 7mph high, now's the time to fix it. Take off the circlip, then the grease cap on nsf hub, leaving speedo cable sticking through, and attach cordless drill to end, set to anti-clockwise! Have assistant work drill whilst you take note of constant speed registered on speedo. Now you see where I'm going with this...
That's right. Do your odometer job then replace speedo needle whilst working the drill, only this time showing 7mph less. Hey presto, your speedo now reads bang on! Also you won't risk snapping/damaging anything by bending the needle over the rest pin.