Split relay
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Split relay
Hi just bought a split relay from Jk but the instructions aren't that great I'm not that keen on electrics of any kind does anyone have a or know of a idiots guide to set this up,I've looked on wiki and I'm confused even more any help would be gratefully received
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Re: Split relay
I know it's not what you want to hear but in my humble opinion that kit is woefully under specified to give you reliable long term leisure battery charging.
That looks like a blue standard fuse (15amps) and the cable looks no heavier than 2mm2 (17.5amp) and although the relay is good quality Hella I bet it's 20 - 30 amp.
I really wouldn't waste your time with this kit, just return it and get a refund, sorry mate but these circuits can surge charge between 30 - 40 amps on a flat leisure battery so you'll spend a fortune on replacing 15 amp fuses everytime you start from a weekend away.
This kit is the same price but everything is rated at least DOUBLE that of the JK kit and supplied with comprehensive fitting instructions.
Note* 2 X 40amp fuses (not 15amps) 100amp relay (not 30amp) if your going to go to the effort of fitting a split charge circuit then fit it once and forget.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-Heavy-Dut ... 41731a765d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
That looks like a blue standard fuse (15amps) and the cable looks no heavier than 2mm2 (17.5amp) and although the relay is good quality Hella I bet it's 20 - 30 amp.
I really wouldn't waste your time with this kit, just return it and get a refund, sorry mate but these circuits can surge charge between 30 - 40 amps on a flat leisure battery so you'll spend a fortune on replacing 15 amp fuses everytime you start from a weekend away.
This kit is the same price but everything is rated at least DOUBLE that of the JK kit and supplied with comprehensive fitting instructions.
Note* 2 X 40amp fuses (not 15amps) 100amp relay (not 30amp) if your going to go to the effort of fitting a split charge circuit then fit it once and forget.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-Heavy-Dut ... 41731a765d" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
Re: Split relay
Thanks mate I think il return it I didn't get the best service from,them the bed hinges came with no instructions and the guy on the phone was a complete a***
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Re: Split relay
Haha, Good old JK. Once bitten, twice shy.
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Re: Split relay
Unfortunately there are a number of JK products that in our collective opinion are 'unfit for purpose'. How they get away with some of the bloopers it is anyone's guess.
Products that spring to mind: ignition distributors/a number of their wheel ranges/pop top canvases to name but a few.
So in the case of this split charge kit, it probably would work fine initially but is likely to be unreliable long term given it's very low rated components.
I wish you all the best with your endeavours..
Martin
Products that spring to mind: ignition distributors/a number of their wheel ranges/pop top canvases to name but a few.
So in the case of this split charge kit, it probably would work fine initially but is likely to be unreliable long term given it's very low rated components.
I wish you all the best with your endeavours..
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
Re: Split relay
It's all packed up ready for returns,now il be waiting for the months worth of rows trying to get my money back
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Re: Split relay
If you bought it over the internet distance selling regulations apply, quote from 'know your consumer rights':
If you change your mind and want to cancel you can usually get a full refund, plus standard delivery costs, if you cancel anytime from when you first placed your order up to 7 working days after the date the goods were delivered.
You don't even need a reason, just make sure you contact them ASAP within 7 days of receiving the parts.
Martin
If you change your mind and want to cancel you can usually get a full refund, plus standard delivery costs, if you cancel anytime from when you first placed your order up to 7 working days after the date the goods were delivered.
You don't even need a reason, just make sure you contact them ASAP within 7 days of receiving the parts.
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
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Re: Split relay
I use the Intelligent one from Raw components really good bit of kit.
http://www.rawcomponents.co.uk/intellig ... ystem.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.rawcomponents.co.uk/intellig ... ystem.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Holdsworth Villa2 1983 1.9 DG, 4 Speed, LPG & Petrol+underslung leisure tank
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Re: Split relay
write "Just Kampers" "split charge relay" not just JK and hopefully it will show up on a google search! somebody is making a mint selling this overpriced "pooh" to folks! for searchability:
shoddy
dodgy
under rated
underrated
kak
overpriced
rubbish
dangerous
trouble
"not working"
"burnt out"
fuse
shoddy
dodgy
under rated
underrated
kak
overpriced
rubbish
dangerous
trouble
"not working"
"burnt out"
fuse
member 1168
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Re: Split relay
how much are kj's flogging these for then
mm
mm
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Re: Split relay
Just looked. They do say you get what you pay for. In this instance I'd say you don't even get that. JK say that if the circuit draws more than 15amps to buy their heavy duty relay which on its own is over £70. Their kits are £21 and £54 respectively and I agree their baseline relay just isn't man enough. I've seen much better ones on Ebay but even there, its cheaper just to make up your own in the end. The JK route would seem to cost around £100 to do the job, all in all.
What costs the money (in my view) isn't so much the relay (which you can find in many places), but the cable, decent quality terminals and fuse holders. Best bought in bits I think. My circuit will cope with 100amps although I'm unlikely to see that. I think it came to about £40-50 in parts - reasonable considering the quality of the bits I actually used. Some parts I swapped as they became available. The fuse holders alone were a fiver each but they're seriously heavy duty ones with buzz bar style fuses in them, held in with two screws.
What costs the money (in my view) isn't so much the relay (which you can find in many places), but the cable, decent quality terminals and fuse holders. Best bought in bits I think. My circuit will cope with 100amps although I'm unlikely to see that. I think it came to about £40-50 in parts - reasonable considering the quality of the bits I actually used. Some parts I swapped as they became available. The fuse holders alone were a fiver each but they're seriously heavy duty ones with buzz bar style fuses in them, held in with two screws.
Last edited by CovKid on 26 May 2013, 08:17, edited 1 time in total.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.
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Re: Split relay
this is reminiscient of the very very early days of japanese electrical goods
mm
mm
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Re: Split relay
just found a nice new one of these in a box of bits, might fit it instead of the 2 single units i have and upgrade the wiring while im at it
http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/l ... 1583-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
mine has what looks to be an adjusting screw under it,
pt no 33441B 2504 lucas
for those that have the ability to search such things
i like the idiot proof diagram
mm
http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/l ... 1583-p.asp" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
mine has what looks to be an adjusting screw under it,
pt no 33441B 2504 lucas
for those that have the ability to search such things
i like the idiot proof diagram
mm
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Re: Split relay
It's all there matey......Paint by numbers....all the positive connections (except W2 which is an earth). It even tells you what wire to use ie: 65/0.30 to the batteries which in laymen's terms means 65 stranded wire each with a diameter of 0.3mm (35 amp continuous rated) 28/0.30 is 17.5amps & 9/0.30 is 5.75amps (this is the trigger circuit from the charge light).
1 alternator warning light terminal
2 main battery
3 additional battery
4 refrigerator
Martin
1 alternator warning light terminal
2 main battery
3 additional battery
4 refrigerator
Martin
1989 California 2.1MV
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Re: Split relay
But DO fuse it. Mine ran without fuses for ages until an auto electrician arrived at MercDoctors yard and almost had a fit when he saw I was running without any. Supplied me with some excellent ones and recommended I fit them close to each battery (close to 2 & 3 above). I could hardly argue with a bloke that does nothing but electrics. Did the job and grateful to him.
This type as it can handle thick cables: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-MIDI-CAR-I ... 3381f79633" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Basically all you need is those, a relay - 40amp or ideally above (mine is 80amp for headroom), enough cable and suitable connectors. I have a 90amp alternator so beefed everything up to be on safe side.
If you have both batteries up front, you could run from one side to the other through the floor (using rubber grommets ofcourse) - to save tripping over the cable. The relay and fuse can tuck away under the seats but mind they cannot short on anything - screw it all down or mount it on a board.
I should add, I started with a kit (regret) but the only thing remaining of it is the actual cable now. I replaced everything else as it seemed too feeble.
I also have a second leisure in my buddy seat and if I need to charge that, I simply disconnect the earth from front leisure so I'm no longer charging that one even if positive is still on it, and use jumper leads from those battery connectors (cheap in Wilkinsons) to the other one. Works well although at some point I'll fit a heavy duty marine switch-over so they can stay connected. Is OK with matched batteries but mine are not, besides its handy to be able to isolate either.
Layout: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Ca ... it_charger" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; although I think the 10amp fuses should be more like 30-40 amp - so did auto electrician. You should be able to make up a far superior bit of kit for the same or less than a 'budget' JK one. Folk tend to buy kits because they're not exactly sure what they need but in time you discover its actually better to choose/source your own components and the kits are a 'break even' solution unless you pay a fortune. The above layout is spot on really. Easy enough to follow. Some parts can be cadged/gleaned from junk piles. I once picked up a Bosch 80amp relay at a boot sale near the Pikey Meet for just a £1 - I was somewhat smug about that one.
The only other item that I think is well worth having is quick release battery connectors (Caravan places do them). They're worth their weight in gold. I was so fed up undoing those clamp nuts everytime I needed to get a battery out - and that includes starter battery. It makes battery removal a breeze!
This type as it can handle thick cables: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-MIDI-CAR-I ... 3381f79633" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Basically all you need is those, a relay - 40amp or ideally above (mine is 80amp for headroom), enough cable and suitable connectors. I have a 90amp alternator so beefed everything up to be on safe side.
If you have both batteries up front, you could run from one side to the other through the floor (using rubber grommets ofcourse) - to save tripping over the cable. The relay and fuse can tuck away under the seats but mind they cannot short on anything - screw it all down or mount it on a board.
I should add, I started with a kit (regret) but the only thing remaining of it is the actual cable now. I replaced everything else as it seemed too feeble.
I also have a second leisure in my buddy seat and if I need to charge that, I simply disconnect the earth from front leisure so I'm no longer charging that one even if positive is still on it, and use jumper leads from those battery connectors (cheap in Wilkinsons) to the other one. Works well although at some point I'll fit a heavy duty marine switch-over so they can stay connected. Is OK with matched batteries but mine are not, besides its handy to be able to isolate either.
Layout: http://wiki.club8090.co.uk/index.php/Ca ... it_charger" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; although I think the 10amp fuses should be more like 30-40 amp - so did auto electrician. You should be able to make up a far superior bit of kit for the same or less than a 'budget' JK one. Folk tend to buy kits because they're not exactly sure what they need but in time you discover its actually better to choose/source your own components and the kits are a 'break even' solution unless you pay a fortune. The above layout is spot on really. Easy enough to follow. Some parts can be cadged/gleaned from junk piles. I once picked up a Bosch 80amp relay at a boot sale near the Pikey Meet for just a £1 - I was somewhat smug about that one.
The only other item that I think is well worth having is quick release battery connectors (Caravan places do them). They're worth their weight in gold. I was so fed up undoing those clamp nuts everytime I needed to get a battery out - and that includes starter battery. It makes battery removal a breeze!
Last edited by CovKid on 27 May 2013, 14:18, edited 3 times in total.
Roller paint your camper at home: http://roller.epizy.com/55554/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for MP4 download.