The Pock-Holed van

[shepster]

Crikey, shep.
would you look at that..
that's how it should look.

Having had a go at mine in this area I can say how good Mike's really Is!

[Plasticman]

well sorted
first thing was to make the inner part of the orifice had this made before 09.00

and it fits, well i nearly forgot that the inner is not parrallel, it starts wider at the rear annd narrows then swells out a bit at the C post need a smilie for head scratching

but these next 2 are it clamped in place to weld

and

its such a pleasure to work with new clean steel and another reason for cutting the crap out
welded. this is in the raw with no sanding so still looks a bit rough and ready

other end

quick sand and a coat

ditto

this may show the curve inside if not i will take some more tomoz when we drop the rear window back in

backend sorted

side sorted

rear 1/4 underside sorted, its been treated then seam sealed and then rusdtoleum

new slider seal track fitted

now you need to get a shorter fan belt please

its all rubbing on the bottom of the engine lid and no more adjustment so go down a size or two

of for tea
mm
oh and got you an award winning item today

[Oldiebut goodie]

Do you think that it was VW's intention to put a drain in the centre here. I understand the ribbing to stop the panel flexing but the central dimple is puzzling if it serves no other purpose. In my opinion it should be a drain.



That wear on the alternator will be from the stainless ring on the bulb, stainless being so hard that it soon wears into ally. Liable to wear a hole in the rubber bulb also!

[Plasticman]

i agree. on the airbox at the bottom of the snorkle is a teat this was maybe the intended drain. anyhows i add them and on my own van i have cut a drain hole as loads comes down the vents
mm

[pocolow]

Great work Mike she looks tons better with all that nice new steel and yes I will get a shorter fanbelt..It's been like that since I got the van.. I will look forward to the prize winning item for my tea.. See you lunch time tomorrow..

Mark

[benlawlor85]

That looks great! I both my rear trays are rusted through. so i think ill be doing this come winter if i can get the van inside. as always Mike great to see how it should be done!

[pocolow]

A big thank you to Mike for sorting our vans issues, I'm sure we'll be back for the other side sometime. Amazing how much you crammed into one week of cutting and welding. The sausages and prizing winning pork pie was most welcomed at Pocolow Towers. Thanks for your warm hospitality and I hope you enjoy a wee dram tonight ..Now I just need to refit the interior and get my tin of Blue Rustoleum out..
Whole new rear quarter


No more rusty windows


A few leftovers



Mark

[Plasticman]

good good, dont forget to chuck some sealant in the seam prior to top coat,
recheck wheel nuts
go on hols
how was the pie to your taste and the other thin ones,
nips were nice.....
pleasure to do a small job and nice not to have to get involved in painting and refitting
mm

[pocolow]

Great Pie..Still some left. Will check my nuts and seal the seams.

Ta Mike

[halfbakedpixels]

Can't wait to see it at Camper Jam this weekend.

[fidget]

Hi mike if youre binning the wheel arch I could really do with the front half if its any good . Just found a random bit of filler mascara-ding as metal . only need about 4" which doesnt justify buying a whole arch section

James

[Plasticman]

mark has it back , pm him and post a pick of the bit/area you want as i also may have a bit
mm

[fidget]

Ill get on it tomorrow I brought replacement arches used what I thought I needed and binned the rest guess I should have kept them

James

[300CE]

Great work as usual Mike, you make it look so easy!!

[nutbox]

Well
heres how the slider looks when its on a stand, i need to do them this way as they are on and off a dozen or more times

bottom rear in position

you will need to add a strip along the seam to fix to the inner arch later.also drill the areas shown for spotting the wing to the rear 1/4. too often you see picks of supposed shops and on looking you find they have welded the panal on the outside of the seams and then ground them out, pure lazy bodging, also by spotting this way the weld is nearer to the outside of the seam and does help secure the join from movement. maybe only a little but it all helps

a good bead of adhesive on the inner supports. this stuff has about 20 mins playtime so no hanging about

then on with it, we know it fits and lines up as its been sorted but still chancy when youve got the glue on....

bottom edge clamped

now these wings are not the correct shape at the rear in so far as they are straight so what you have to do is secure and weld the top part above the false seam so its flush with the rear 1/4 then you can pull in the lower part below the seam(false) and weld this

inner lip welded to inner arch , this only needs tacking and then a good coat of seam sealant on both sides

lower lip here needs drilling quite high up as the lip that it fixes to is a bit short (its how vw do it to allow welding the rear arm brkt on)

and now spotted, mig wound up to get a good grip

wing now secured and the lower 1/4 fitted, i have brazed the short seam at the join of the lower/upper 1/4 at the very rear

so will post this up and then load a few more picks of the juicy bit
mm

Hi mm
I am looking to replace the rear corners on my van the drivers side need the bottom panel and the usual panel just below the thick line(must be a technical term for it?).
But the other side need cutting above that line because it has been badly repaired,
What I was wondering do you flange the repair panel ? And when you use them clecos things do you drill through both panels ?
Do you plug the hole s and then lap weld them together?
Also would you be able to make a supply the left hand panel with the thick line in it?
If so how much would we be talking kind sir.

Sorry for all the questions but all the help would be appreciated thanks dazz