Doka flatbed, what to do?

[tricksta77]

Im debating what to do with the flatbed area on the back of my Doka, numerous holes towards the cab end (though very little damage to the join with the cab wall (thankfully) from various attachments during its previous life, question is do I return it to stock? Or plate over it?

I'm possibly looking at making a wood and stainless steel bed for it in the future like the old stepside fords used to have. Im thinking of going for a retro/american/hot rod style look, already have the banded steel wheels that will painted then have domed caps added.

Would like other peoples opinions and some pros/cons/pointers

cheers,

Rich

[Plasticman]

p[ost some picks of the van in general and the rotted area and we can see wehter it deserves resto or repro
mm

[tricksta77]

Good point, will get some pics later

[HarryMann]

If you don't weld those holes up whatever you put over the top water will probably get through and then wreck the floor and locker over time...
If you rip it orft and replace it, try to fit something that's all fully sealed up, with silicone of rubber in the bolt or rivet holes, and the joints sealed.

Personally i hate checker-plate and have rarely seen one finished really well; buffalo board is not a bad solution, I've got my original corrugated loadbed covered 10mm phenolic coated ply (b-board) held down on the high points with plated countersunk M6 x 10mm or thereabouts, and the cab-edge tight fitted and sealed off 100%

If you do though, I'd still advise drilling out or grinding out with a rotary burr all those holes, then welding them up, it's a great short-course on MIG hole-filling technique, think I had twenty or thirty to vary my style on plus the rear of cab, thanks to the BBC OB unit butchers, think some were literally punched through! Nasty ones in rough and head-lining too...

Then, it's on your back in the locker, wire brushing and treating the roof where it`s rusted and it will have...

The drop-sides can be plated with board too, but make sure you work out what is going to overlap what, my drop side boards are short enough to lock just over those on the floor.
With some chains and small carabiners at the front, one drops down horiz. nicely for sandwich and tea-making, the other one with a high-lift jack attached, perfectly neutrally over-balanced so it doesn't crash down.

I decided on shiny side up for the Buffalo-board

[tricksta77]

Here are pics as promised

IMG_1358.JPG

IMG_1357.JPG

IMG_1356.JPG

[HarryMann]

If you're to remove the bed that's a lot of spot welds!
A cobalt spot drill would be useful ss in the wiki, still can't blunt mine.

[Plasticman]

and if you were to remove the bed, then what? if you make a lash of doing the spots then you have a lot of work to make good, you could cut out the bad and make good, a magnetic press for the spot drilling is handy , well i may have one to do later and this is what i would use to drill them all out,
mm

[tricksta77]

If i was to put the bed back to stock, where is the best place to get replacement panels? Or is it easier/better to make new sections by hand?

[Plasticman]

you make the parts and let them in (butt weld) lovely job,very theraputic

[tricksta77]

Well I now know you can get complete bed panels brand new!!! but they're crazy expensive are there any other panels that could be used?

Caddy bed panels, splitty floor, bay floor etc?

Still on the fence over what to do

Rich

[Plasticman]

well €5-600 to get a new loadbed or rep it, im not help ing you make the decision so im not getting the blame
mm

[HarryMann]

Didn't I suggest Buffalo Board about a month ago...

~= £100

[Fin]

I fitted a sheet of Wysedeck to mine - I think that's how you spell it
Removed all the rotten metalwork by drilling all the welds and peeled the top off like a big banana


Made a join at the back with some big Hinges - so it has lots of access into the engine now

[Fin]

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[HarryMann]

... and Wysedeck is?
Intelligent decking.. :)