exhaust removal problem

[karl40]

Hello everyone, i need some advice. I am attempting to remove the complete exhaust system from my 1.9 D.F WBX (A reg Devon pop top) and i have been soaking the nuts and bolts in plus gas for days now. This morning i have managed to get one off but the other three are just totally rusted on to the studs which themselves are corroded to a point where no nut would turn off it anyway. I dont have the option of a pit or workshop to get underneath and so far its been laying on my back in the drive out front but this has now gone past this approach. I fear that the engine will have to come out and this will be mega cash(the old girl has done 106,000 miles but pullls lovely). As anyone had the same problem?
Will it be more cost effective and staright forward in the long run to renew the engine and fit a new exhaust then, its a trip to the bank manager if it is. I dont want to waste money taking the old one out fitting it back to find 6 months down the line it dies on me.
So folks what do you think.

[CovKid]

http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=42&t=95835" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Follow that one.

Engine out isn't that much hassle though.

[karl40]

Cheers CovKid, i will carry on soaking the nuts and studs in plusgas. Should the engine come out, as i have never had the nerve to take it out before.

[kevtherev]

don't get in a flap taking the engine out
VW made it dead easy, eight botls and a a few pipes and connectors.. out she comes

So easy in fact I prefer to do that rather than faff about trying to do stuff with the engine in

[CovKid]

Even allowing for the fact that Kev and I are grease-monkey midlanders, its a lot easier to remove engine than you might think. Label up wires if you're at all concerned but it'll come out easily on a trolley jack (even single handed) and you can get to anything then. Don't worry about the mileage, if its run well up to now it'll run a good while yet. Thats not a high mileage for a V-dub as they're doing half the amount of revs of modern engines. Granted you'll need to refill cooling system but if you're struggling for access, whip the engine out. Another 80-90 member close by would assist I'm sure.

Update your profile with your location etc as it'll prompt others to pitch in.

[kevtherev]

yes good point covkid put your location in your profile..

[karl40]

Well i am taking your advice and will attempt to take the engine out in january and will keep soaking the studs and bolts. I have some 2 tonne axle stands and a fairly desent trolly jack, but i am thinking about getting some inspection ramps of ebay (3 tonne, with a working height of 200mm) would this be enough to slide the engine out. Or is H.Duty axle stands are a better idea with a working height of 400mm, i am worried that it will come out but not clear the underneath of the van.
Question number two is what other work would you recommend i tackle once the engine is out..i am thinking of changinging the flow and return pipes from the radiator to the stainless steel ones in J.Kampers and renewing the engine mounts. What do you think?

Question 3 is what do you drop the engine on to to move it around, could two people move it.
Sorry to ask all this but i am a virgin at this and dont want to hurt the old girl.
Thanks everyone for the info, its much appreciated.

[kevtherev]

I use a skate board (what else with a VW ) to move the engine around, not that heavy BTW as it's aluminium.

higher the better.. for the ramps

*important* ..remember to disconnect the gearbox from it's push rod before you lower the engine and pull it off the input shaft

do every thing you can when the engine is out. start by degreasing it and cleaning it up.
here's my optional list
replace any leaky crank shaft seals, (pulley and flywheel)
change the clutch and release bearing, and the gearbox seal
replace the exhaust,
change the oil pump
renew all the engine mounts.
replace the water pump.
replace the fuel pump
thermostat,
remove and clean up, clean out the carb
clean up the engine bay and restore the tinware with some hammerite after a wire brush
clean up the engine carrier bar

here's one I did earlier

[CovKid]

The other way to get engine out from underneath is to jack van up when engine is on the floor and simply drag it out from underneath. To put it back, shove it underneath the same way (pushing with your feet if its easiest) then lift one side of engine enough to get a big block of wood underneath. then same other side until theres enough room to slide a trolley jack underneath it in the middle. I mention this since not everyone has all tools available and brute force will do the job too at a pinch. Kev's 'to do' list is a good one but not absolutely essential if all you're doing is the exhaust. Worth considering though. Do check the clutch friction plate though - agree on that.

Ideal with two people but can be done on your own once you have a feel for where the engine is nicely balanced on the jack. MercDoctor and I recently did a complete transplant - engine and gearbox as one. We both eat THREE shredded wheat though

Once you've done it once, you'll have no fear of a repeat. Its more about motivation than actual trouble and strife.

[karl40]

Thanks lads for the help, i will probally give myself a free week end for this removal. Then i will work my way through a list of jobs with the main one of renewing the flow and return pipes from the rad as they both are looking rather cruddy. I can take my time on the work as the engine will go in the shed for the work. I will work towards the dream job as shown in the pictures. One more thing should i drain the oil before this work.

[KarlT]

Don't have to but I would, get it all warm & run a flush through before taking it out.

Who's engine is that? Sweet, Surely, not your's Kev???

[kevtherev]

It doesn't look like that now,.... but that is what can be achieved with paint and a good clean up

[telsony]

If you need help let me no if free will give you a hand one weekend done a few in me time,normally drop on gearbox jack pull out form underneath

[California Dreamin]

Mark the clutch cover against the flywheel (after inspection my clutch went back in as it had plenty of wear. piggin thing juddered for the next year until I had the clutch replaced). Obviously the cover had worn in a particular way and once re-assembled in a different position it wasn't smoothly engaging the friction plate...Doh!

To add to Kevs list: Starter motor oilite bush and pigot shaft bearing (oilite bush a definate) spigot bearing examine and replace if needed (lube).

Martin

[karl40]

well i did it, i took the engine out with the help of my 14 year old son. It went quite well i took my time in marking up all the pipes and setting bits aside. i managed to get the gear box supported with axel stands and the engine on to a trolly we made up. Thats where my luck ended the exhaust wouldn't come off so i took it all round the back to were i had a heavy bench ready. The exhaust studs appeared to be welded to the nuts on the rear left hand side, thats why it snapped my ring spanner. Well i kept the faith and managed to get over that and remove all but one of the rather rusted exhaust studs......all but one. This snapped off in the block even after weeks of heating it up and squrting pen oil over it. Well i center punched it and drilled it out ready for an easy out stud remover and this failed to move it and damaged the easy out. so i have drilled it out carefully with a 1/4 high speed dril bit which is just under the 8mm stud size. What size do i drill it out to, so that i can use a 10mm stud. The type with 10mm one end and 8mm the other, as sold by VW Heritage. whats your ideas for my next move.