K Seal to repair my gasket leak

[pinkypinky]

Hi, help!
Managed to freeze up, overheat and blow the head gasket during the cold before Christmas. The garage are recommending that we use K-Seal permanent coolant leak repair instead of replacing the gasket, I'm a little nervous and so was wondering if anyone had any experiences of using K-seal?
Thanks very much
pinkypinky

[ghost123uk]

Hi Pinky

Welcome to here where you find all you need to know (and lots that you don't !!)

Sorry to here of your troubles

Firstly, as always, we have to ask what type of engine is in your van ?

More help to follow when you have answered that, tho to be honest, whilst K seal is the best sealant on the market, it is very unlikely to sort a head gasket problem out and you may be looking at a big bill. Sorry to bring bad news but I have to be honest.

[Ian Hulley]

The garage are recommending that we use K-Seal permanent coolant leak repair instead of replacing the gasket,

Find a proper garage who will do a real repair.

Welcome to the club btw

Ian

[R0B]

Like ian says.Find a decent garage...

[pinkypinky]

The van (named Pinky) is a 1982 transporter, the engine is a 1.9 petrol, replaced 3 yrs ago with a recon following a disasterous blocked pipes incident (too painful to discuss).
I have similar worries about this being a bit of a bodge, although I have heard great things about this product. The garage would rather try this than work on the engine.
Cheers Guys

[R0B]

If you were to fill in your profile.So we know what area you live in.Someone might be able to recommend a decent garage to you..

[pinkypinky]

Hi Rob,
Sorry, have not managed to see how to do this, we are near Preston. I have contacted NWVW at Tarleton, as I saw a good write up in a recent mag, but they are on ansaphone - any other ideas very gratefully received
Cheers

[Ian Hulley]

Managed to freeze up, overheat and blow the head gasket during the cold before Christmas.

'The Head Gasket' is an annealed ring per cylinder (2 per side), you need a proper diagnosis as to what exactly has been damaged, it means compression testing all the cylinders and then you can start to form an opinion as to the costs involved.

The fact the engine has recently been reconditioned means it should split relatively easily and other critical weak points (head studs, exhaust studs etc) should still be in good condition and the crank shouldn't need splitting.

IMHO best case is a head off, reseal and rebuild. Worst case is scrap heads, overheated and knackered barrels, pistons, damaged crank ... in which case it's scrap and time for another engine. Either way a course in basic vehicle maintenance is required, you cannot just allow things to freeze ... 50/50 antifreeze/water ... simples.

Ian

[R0B]

Sorted that for you mate

have not managed to see how to do this