I'm an idiot.

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SplendiferousII
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Re: I'm an idiot.

Post by SplendiferousII »

I didnt use the baffled sump gasket. Dont forget the spigot bearing (I see you have one) you need to use the oil pimp pick up from your old engine unless that came with your new pump, but that will be obvious once you see it.

I used my old 1.6 manifolds without modification. Mine goes very well indeed so Id do the same again.

Its an easy peasy job to do. I had pump issues which slowed me up but in principle, I could do it in a day no worries.

Oh wiring the pump is a doodle - in fact its all a doodle.

Search posts by me splendiferousII - I wrote a fair amount when I did mine.

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HarryMann
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Re: I'm an idiot.

Post by HarryMann »

As i understand it the stuff I saw about the windage tray said that the pump/pickup from gsf had to use the original VW one (interference with the webs?!?)

but the pump I've got from brickwerks needs no mods?

Have I got that right as well? or am I barking up the wrong tree? Is the pick-up the spindly stickey out bit of the pump?

Use the pickup from the old pump after cleaning, yes..check surfaces for burrs and flatness then small screw and throughbolts.

Trial the windage tray fit with engine upside down, rotate the engine through at least one complete revolution, you might have to cut away a small part of the tray. I have fitted two or three now, and have one fitted at the moment on an AAZ. I think it helps reduce breather oil mist, but your choice. You need the longer set screws

Wiki wrote:As you have to change the sump, maybe a new oil pump might be advised, you have to change the oil pickup pipe over anyway, so a new 30mm Shadek pump from GSF is a good idea, just ask for the one for a T25, they're not a lot of money.

New sump gasket or combined baffle/gasket if that's what its got already. Check clearancing on crank webs if using a baffle plate (rotates without interference) before putting sump on. And ideally, the sump set screws should be from your original engine, they're 22mm as opposed to about 16mm long, and you might need a few spares, its not unusual that some of the block threads are damaged... run them all up loosely after picking out each and every thread with a scriber, even run a tap down each one carefully to make sure they're really clean, and take care with the ones in the alloy seal housings at either end of the block. Clean all your old set screws and tighten them up in stages, but ONLY after inserting the bellhousing through-bolts (clean those two threads in the sump's bosses out too and threads of those long bolts) and nipping them slightly to ensure sump is correctly aligned and pulled up towards the gearbox end. Then go round several times nipping them all up, working from the middle outwards like a head. Finally tighten the two large through-bolts

N 101 725 01 (M6 x 22 x SPZ1) Sump screws (20 off)

Clean and check your sump, ensuring the sump plug and thread is in good nick, new copper or neoprene washer, don't overtighten!

===

You might get away with doing the timing that way, but its usually best to do it properly. Also, some fit the idler repair kit too, which GSF do complete with a belt (£25?).
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