It is one of those things that maybe it will, maybe it won;t. Why take the chance when voltmeters are so cheap. Alernators are not. if the alternator were operated without load or battery the voltage would rise linearly with the speed of the alternator. Posibly rising to as high as 140 v. Paraphraised from my Bosch book.
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
As bizarre as this may sound that information has restored a little hope in me.
After a long line of 'issues' I thought this would be another nail biter.
I'll run some more checks (with a more car savvy mate) with any luck we will get the all clear.
Thank you all for your help so far.
First check the batt voltage, if its low charge the battery for as long as you can then retry
could also pull the belt off and check it spins freely, just because its new doesnt mean its not faulty and i suppose pulleys were swapped so check they are tight or keyed with a woodruff key
1988 DG WBX LPG Tin Top
1989 DJ digijet WBX Holdsworth Villa 3 Pop Top itchylinks
itchyfeet wrote:
if the alternator were operated without load or battery the voltage would rise linearly with the speed of the alternator. Posibly rising to as high as 140 v. Paraphraised from my Bosch book.
Your on the right track.
Silcon semiconductors only have a safe maximum voltage they can work at. Rectifier diodes are a one way valve if the voltage is too high the diode will break down allowing current to pass both ways causing a short circuit. Most times you will get away with it but it only needs one weak semiconductor to commit silicon suicide to ruin the alternator.
1982 Camper 1970 1500 Beetle Various Skoda's, Ariel Arrow
Would have thought if 12v feed is disconnected the alternator won't charge anyway, therefore no regulator/rectifier damage.
Only other thought is belt tension, make sure not too tight, alt will run hot if belt b@st@rd tight.