DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
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DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
The exhaust manifold nearest the oil filter is in urgent need of new studs. I'm planning to use the M10 to M8 repair studs, but i can't see how I'll get a drill in there as its a pretty tight squeeze, even if I take the filter off.
I've seen angle drills that might fit, and right-angle adapters that I could use on my standard drill. The adapters are certainly cheaper, but do they actually work?
Also, can I just drill to 10mm and then tap it or would drilling it to 10.5mm and using a 10mm helicoil be better?
Thanks
Iain
I've seen angle drills that might fit, and right-angle adapters that I could use on my standard drill. The adapters are certainly cheaper, but do they actually work?
Also, can I just drill to 10mm and then tap it or would drilling it to 10.5mm and using a 10mm helicoil be better?
Thanks
Iain
1984 T25 Poptop EJ20 conversion
- itchyfeet
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
this shows how much space you have with the silencer and tinware/ coolant bottle removed, not done it but i'd think it's enough with a battery powered drill.
i'd M8 helecoil it myself and you can then use stainless steel studs, no more rusty ones, I did it years ago and never regretted it, when I had to take the engine out recently studs came out easy.
rememberthe hole is only 25mm deep don't drill too far or it's a new head.
i'd M8 helecoil it myself and you can then use stainless steel studs, no more rusty ones, I did it years ago and never regretted it, when I had to take the engine out recently studs came out easy.
rememberthe hole is only 25mm deep don't drill too far or it's a new head.
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
Thanks itchyfeet.
So just use M8 studs, not the M10-M8 ones?
Thanks
Iain
So just use M8 studs, not the M10-M8 ones?
Thanks
Iain
1984 T25 Poptop EJ20 conversion
- itchyfeet
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
That's what I would do but it really depends on how big the hole ends up once you have drilled them out
You may be forced to go m10
M8 helicoil drilling size is 8.3mm
You may be forced to go m10
M8 helicoil drilling size is 8.3mm
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
I had to go the M10-M8 stud route as I did indeed drill to deep and went into the water jacket So I re tapped and fitted the larger size stud but didnt go as deep, leaving enough metal for the larger stud to but up against something, and happily a year on and there has been no leaks !
but as Itchy suggests try the standard size first.. that will leave the bigger size in reserve if you need it
but as Itchy suggests try the standard size first.. that will leave the bigger size in reserve if you need it
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
itchyfeet wrote:this shows how much space you have with the silencer and tinware/ coolant bottle removed, not done it but i'd think it's enough with a battery powered drill.
i'd M8 helecoil it myself and you can then use stainless steel studs, no more rusty ones, I did it years ago and never regretted it, when I had to take the engine out recently studs came out easy.
rememberthe hole is only 25mm deep don't drill too far or it's a new head.
Where did you get the stainless studs from please?
Davvy - White Hightop 1986 2.1 DJ
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
Just use bolts and cut the heads off.
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
shepster wrote:Just use bolts and cut the heads off.
Why mess around? m8x40 or 45 grub screws for a late van are ideal because you have an internal hex and cheap as chips really, i use stainless nuts and washers too, in fact the whole exhaust system is bolted together with stainless
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-M8-A ... 4acbf60b66" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
early vans need some bolts i think but agian stainless is good, just use some copper grease to prevent the aluminium corroding
Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
itchyfeet wrote:shepster wrote:Just use bolts and cut the heads off.
Why mess around? m8x40 or 45 grub screws for a late van are ideal because you have an internal hex and cheap as chips really, i use stainless nuts and washers too, in fact the whole exhaust system is bolted together with stainless
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M4-M5-M6-M8-A ... 4acbf60b66" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
early vans need some bolts i think but agian stainless is good, just use some copper grease to prevent the aluminium corroding
That makes way more sense to having bolts that you cant get out.
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
I'm loving the grub screw idea. Thing is, I have an early van - why will it need bolts?
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
Because getting the early system all on studs is difficult
It's not an issue on late exhaust systems the bends are easier
It's not an issue on late exhaust systems the bends are easier
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
Hoopy_Frood wrote:I'm loving the grub screw idea. Thing is, I have an early van - why will it need bolts?
Just a thought, with Itchy's excellent hex head stud idea, perhaps you could use the studs, by holding the exhaust in place and then fitting the studs (with the Allen key) ?
Got a new van, but it's a 165bhp T4 [shock horror] Accurate LPG Station map here
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
In theory you can fit the early exhaust with all studs but you will have a devil of a job getting it off again, to seperate the two pipes and slide them appart usually require a bit of rotation which you cant do with studs.
maybe if you had 25mm studs you could wind them out but no benefit from bolts
personally id fit early with m8x25 bolts at least one side on each head, you can use longer on all but the problem two in the pic.
If you use all bolts and the pipe is stuck you can just remove the whole assembly and split the pipes on the bench
sorry hoopy frood i didnt spot you had a early van initially
maybe if you had 25mm studs you could wind them out but no benefit from bolts
personally id fit early with m8x25 bolts at least one side on each head, you can use longer on all but the problem two in the pic.
If you use all bolts and the pipe is stuck you can just remove the whole assembly and split the pipes on the bench
sorry hoopy frood i didnt spot you had a early van initially
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
Jeez itchy, you seem to have a picture for everything
Got a new van, but it's a 165bhp T4 [shock horror] Accurate LPG Station map here
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Re: DG exhaust stud replacement - can it be done in situ?
Yeh i have alot but i just took that one, anything to delay going out and rubbing down some rusty wheels
Oh well cant put i off any longer......
Oh well cant put i off any longer......